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2012 Top 5


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*The Grand Traverse with my realtor Mike Morris

*Shunes Buttress in Zion (twice!) with Sky Sjue and JP Rhode

*Black Elk with Brian Schmitz

*Astrodog in the Black Canyon with Sky Sjue

*Atlantis in the Black Canyon with Johh Thompson


*gym training-less ascents


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1. Glacier Peak. Nontechnical, but fun, memorable as hell and gorgeous.


2. SEWS / Bear Hug Cracks route. I've been trying to do this climb for years but it never worked out. Took my first alpine leader fall on the 5.8 hand crack


3. Cashmere with my 11-year-old


4. Hood/Reid Headwall. Despite losing a crampon on a 55 degree traverse.


5. Dorado Needle - epic fail but good times and memories with good friends.

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wow, i love the variety!

i didn't climb much this year, but most trips were quite memorable.



death picnic (x2)


a bunch of skiing around alpental (let's count that as 2 also, so i can keep with the "top 5" math)


mother's day st helens ski while 7 months pregnant :)



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1. Went from Alaska to Washington and later to Utah via highways and saw a lot of crazy stuff and met a lot of awesome people.

2. Had countless days that I at the time I claimed were the best days of my life (skiing).

3. The best climb that I did was another failure on the proj that ended 5 pitches up in a storm.

4. Made it through another year.

5. Drank a lot of good beer with good people.

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1. Finally, after 6 tries, free-climbed Dragons of Eden on D-tail leading all cruxes with Adam Lawson.


2. Snowboard descent of the Black Hole Couloir on Bandit Pk. with Joey T.


3. Flash of the Supercave on the M&M Wall with Jon Pobst and Blake Herrington.


4. Let it Burn on CBR with Adam Lawson.


5. Snowboard descent of "Steep Creek" Couloir on Rock Mtn with Aaron Scot and Nathan B.

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Climbing the "Boltess Warrior" at Beacon on a 105 degree evening with Arent.


Climbing 9 times at Beacon this year (8 more times than last year).


Sending Blownout (even though I am old and fat).


Climbing Zebra Zion with 3 very good friends.


Watching my children grow.

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I wasn't going to post since I'm not really a climber, but since I am perusing your lists for good ideas. In the name of fair sharing.


1. far west? climb/north face shuksan. Scott Wicklund E svege. watching speed flyers on the hanging glacier


2. Kyes peak counter clockwise circumanav. KMC and Goblin couloirs with Ben Starkey. some how made Lowells inbox.


3. South side walk up/north face Maude with E Svege. 2nd time for me, 3rd for Erik.


4. Surprise lake and snow fort fun... over 2 dozen days in that area last year. too much to list.


5. Pickets traverse south to north. Fury se face and challenger north decents. Seth Holton, Frankie CD, and Kyle Miller.


edit to add that these where all snowboard trips.









Edited by alecapone
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Work consumed more of my time last year than in years past, but I feel fortunate to have done the following top 5:


1 - FA of Blade Runner, a striking clean, overhanging face at Shangri-La at X38 with a devious bouldery crux. Without a doubt the hardest pitch I've ever climbed. Definitely worth repeating...


2 - NE Buttress of Slesse in perfect fall conditions.


3 - Roan Wall (Centerfold) and Salish peak (scrambling because we weren't fast enough getting to and up the Roan wall).


4 - FA of Science Friction at Shangri-La.


5 - A bunch of great powder days with kids, wife, friends, and by myself.


Extra 1 - This doesn't count in most people's books, and it really doesn't make my top 5, but I've definitely enjoyed climbing indoors regularly at SBP.


Extra 2 - I had a few work travel trips and got to visit climbing gyms in different places. Some are great (Planet Granite on the SF peninsula), some are OK (Rockville, Maryland), and some are atrocious (Vegas). Nonetheless, it's always interesting to sample new gyms and setters.

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1. Exploratory Kayak decent of the Upper Chetco River through the Kalmiopsis Wilderness.


2. Scoping future climbing objectives in the Owyhees and pervert stew in the Alvord desert with Captain Frick, Corvegas, Hanman, James the sheep master, Liutenant Dan and the beautiful significant others.


3. Tropical waters on the Big Island


4. 15" of fresh fairly fluffy pow on a sunny calm, uncrowded day at Willamette Pass on xmas-eve day on my tele-mounted K2 Mt Bakers


5. Watching Bighorn Sheep males but heads along the deschutes (first time I ever saw that)

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5. Sloan west buttress "adventure" climb. The climbing wasn't special, but the constant uncertainty and good partner made it fun

4. NF of Chair; first real alpine "ice" climb for me. Nice bit of pucker from finding practically no pro on route. Lots of learning

3. Guiding on Rainier for a charity climb. DC route wasn't anything spectacular, but helping raise ~$40k to help Nepalese children was definitely incredible.

2. Spending two nights (including new years eve) in the Winchester mountain lookout, skiing everything in sight.

1. Squamish Buttress linked from Rock On. While not cutting edge, it was by far the most fun day of climbing I had this year

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2. Scoping future climbing objectives in the Owyhees and pervert stew in the Alvord desert with Captain Frick, Corvegas, Hanman, James the sheep master, Liutenant Dan and the beautiful significant others.


So glad to be along on that trip. Eastern Oregon is a place like no other. The desolation is wonderful.


As for climbs.

1. El Capitan, The Nose.

2. FA Ancient Melodies, Darrington.

3. FA Hoof Direct, Cloven Roof, Spring Mt. (Scariest 3 hours of my life.)

4. CNR Mt. Stuart.

5. North Ridge Mt. Baker

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1. HOOD - Eliot Headwall/Cathedral Spire - "Ravine" - with Vitaliy


2. HOOD - Eliot Headwall - Olsen/Wallace line - with Andy and Oleg


3. SHUKSAN - Hanging Glacier - with Anita and Oleg


4. FORBIDDEN - East Ridge/West Ridge traverse - with Oleg


5. Led the Louise Falls pillar, Canadian Rockies, AB - with Dane and Rafal


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I like this topic. An free pass to chestbeat :grin:!


1. Tie: Thin Red Line on Liberty Bell with Tom Michael in September and Mt. Stuart's Girth Pillar with Cfire and Flick in June.

2. Soloing Outer Space last September on a perfect early fall day.

3. Soloing Backbone Ridge again in August with not another soul around.

4. Sending my hardest trad lead at Castle Rock: No Such Thing as a Free Lunge, 5.11d R.

5. Skiing the Northwest Face to North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck Peak on 12/28/12.

Edited by telemarker
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well these aren't quite like actually hoofing it... and I'll only mention three, but.. it was a memorable year all in all...


1. Waddington & the Homathko Icefield, March 24, one day up and back with my gifted friend & collaborator Steph Abegg




2. Canada - four days in May, 2100 mile trip to the Rockies, Columbia Mountains, Valhallas, again with Steph


Rockies/Columbia Mts


3. Canada again, this time solo, September 26 to 29, Columbia mountains from the Bugs to the Premier Range, with a dash of Robson thrown in...




Sir John Thompson


Sir Sandford



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