matt_warfield Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 (edited) Well Dru pops off and so do you and so do I but rocks and mountains and ethics know no boundaries. Edited October 5, 2012 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Don't know whos winning the debate, but looks like an awesome route - thanks for sharing the link Bob. It looks like a 3rd party is doing the write up, and they simply might have meant to say "Ground up", instead of "onsight". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 how would you score their climb on 8a.nu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 (edited) In the end the person that has fun wins, whether they do A0, french free, a bolt ladder, hang dog, do redpoint, flash, or onsight. As long as they don't brag about it in the media with any deception . Then it is game on. And ground up just muddies the waters so you can't see 2". Edited October 5, 2012 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 And what the hell is a "legit UK onsight" anyway. Must be a canadian thing, eh? Drew practices for "canadian redpoint". Give'r hoser, eh? Your mom got a couple pinkpoints in quick succession. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 And what the hell is a "legit UK onsight" anyway. Must be a canadian thing, eh? Drew practices for "canadian redpoint". Give'r hoser, eh? Your mom got a couple pinkpoints in quick succession. better than a redpoint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 The web helps yet another climber overcome his shyness issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 (edited) Everybody needs to be christened to social media. If not us, who? In the midst of the bullshit, we collectively have extensive climbing knowledge and there is wheat among the chaff. Edited October 5, 2012 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cascadesdj Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 You dumb Canadian, I guess you could read it like that if you really, really wanted to. I don't know if I'd call a Canadian dumb. Did they start the Iraq war on lies? Did they elect Bush TWICE? Don't they have universal health care? ETC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Hey, and don't forget that Ugly Canadian syndrome, you know, they turn right without signalling... I think its funny the way the tone runs in this thread that started with a question compared to Blake's current thread of the same format. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 You dumb Canadian, I guess you could read it like that if you really, really wanted to. I don't know if I'd call a Canadian dumb. Did they start the Iraq war on lies? Did they elect Bush TWICE? Don't they have universal health care? ETC You're funny........ I don't think the Polish did those things either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 The whole OS and free is bullshit: Read this: http://mtnequipment.blogspot.com/2012/09/report-nw-greenland-expedition-2012.html They bailed even before the rain, so the route was climbed on 3rd attempt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 My takeaway: very cool objective in a spectacular setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 who gives a fuck? and why does it bother you so much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Lemke Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 who gives a fuck? and why does it bother you so much? THANK YOU! Bout time someone asked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 who gives a fuck? and why does it bother you so much? Actually it does matter. like Donini said some time ago: "style matters". Climbing is a type of sport, where we don't have a bunch of referees watching what we really do. So honest reporting is a key. It used to be a golden standard, where after a writeup in Mountain Magazine, there used to be a 3 sentence summary. Now it's blogs and reporting garbage, where the reporting party will always claim "we were misunderstood". This leads to bullshit ascents, like "Golden Lunacy" in Greenland by Kaszlikowski and Kubarska in 2007. The description in magazines (Alpinist, AAJ) made it sound like a fucking unreal epic. The team travelled 80 km by sea kayaks with all the gear and then climbed 2000m route (1500 vertical terrain) on one of the largest cliffs on the planet. The route was graded 5.11d, with a lot of climbing in 5.10 range.This was the report they submitted. But there were enough inconsistencies to trigger Polish Climbing Federation investigation. They actually send a team to repeat the route. First of all, there was no 80 km kayak odyssey. They chartered a boat and used sea kayaks to cross a 2 km bay to the base of the climb. The climb was indeed almost 2 km, but the crux was not 11d, but more like 10b/c, and the whole route had only 5 real pitches of climbing- the rest was low 5th class, which was either soloed or simul-climbed by the repeating party. No so big epic after all. In the era of instant media, satellite phones, internet and blogs, we have more Maestries and fewer Doninis. I think pointing out liars is all we have left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 If pointing out liars is all you have left, take stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 who gives a fuck? and why does it bother you so much? Actually it does matter. like Donini said some time ago: "style matters". Climbing is a type of sport, where we don't have a bunch of referees watching what we really do. So honest reporting is a key. It used to be a golden standard, where after a writeup in Mountain Magazine, there used to be a 3 sentence summary. Now it's blogs and reporting garbage, where the reporting party will always claim "we were misunderstood". This leads to bullshit ascents, like "Golden Lunacy" in Greenland by Kaszlikowski and Kubarska in 2007. The description in magazines (Alpinist, AAJ) made it sound like a fucking unreal epic. The team travelled 80 km by sea kayaks with all the gear and then climbed 2000m route (1500 vertical terrain) on one of the largest cliffs on the planet. The route was graded 5.11d, with a lot of climbing in 5.10 range.This was the report they submitted. But there were enough inconsistencies to trigger Polish Climbing Federation investigation. They actually send a team to repeat the route. First of all, there was no 80 km kayak odyssey. They chartered a boat and used sea kayaks to cross a 2 km bay to the base of the climb. The climb was indeed almost 2 km, but the crux was not 11d, but more like 10b/c, and the whole route had only 5 real pitches of climbing- the rest was low 5th class, which was either soloed or simul-climbed by the repeating party. No so big epic after all. In the era of instant media, satellite phones, internet and blogs, we have more Maestries and fewer Doninis. I think pointing out liars is all we have left. Agreed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 the day i find myself getting worked up over what a buncha folks i've never met claimed to do somewhere i've never been is the day i start doubling my meds as long as there's honesty in bowling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Mark a zero, Smokey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I read the report, and it seemed like their description and the media report matched up pretty well. It's not as if they were even claiming a ground-breaking ascent. I could see being a little disappointed if, for instance, the dawn-wall team reported a red-point but didn't place pro on lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I could see being a little disappointed if, for instance, the dawn-wall team reported a red-point but didn't place pro on lead. Oh the horror! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 You people do realize that the weather is still nice outside (at least for a few more days)? Jebus, can't we save these types of pointless, semantical arguments for that wonderful time of year when the weather turns a ghastly shade of grey and we all slowly go insane from vitamin D deficiency, cabin fever and slow drowning by rain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 who gives a fuck? and why does it bother you so much? Actually it does matter. like Donini said some time ago: "style matters". Climbing is a type of sport, where we don't have a bunch of referees watching what we really do. So honest reporting is a key. It used to be a golden standard, where after a writeup in Mountain Magazine, there used to be a 3 sentence summary. Now it's blogs and reporting garbage, where the reporting party will always claim "we were misunderstood". This leads to bullshit ascents, like "Golden Lunacy" in Greenland by Kaszlikowski and Kubarska in 2007. The description in magazines (Alpinist, AAJ) made it sound like a fucking unreal epic. The team travelled 80 km by sea kayaks with all the gear and then climbed 2000m route (1500 vertical terrain) on one of the largest cliffs on the planet. The route was graded 5.11d, with a lot of climbing in 5.10 range.This was the report they submitted. But there were enough inconsistencies to trigger Polish Climbing Federation investigation. They actually send a team to repeat the route. First of all, there was no 80 km kayak odyssey. They chartered a boat and used sea kayaks to cross a 2 km bay to the base of the climb. The climb was indeed almost 2 km, but the crux was not 11d, but more like 10b/c, and the whole route had only 5 real pitches of climbing- the rest was low 5th class, which was either soloed or simul-climbed by the repeating party. No so big epic after all. In the era of instant media, satellite phones, internet and blogs, we have more Maestries and fewer Doninis. I think pointing out liars is all we have left. In the words of Chuck D...Don't believe the hype. The posers, pretenders and hot air spewers will be found out in the end. I suppose it comes down to why we climb...to what end? Money, quick fame, as a profession, or simply just for ourselves... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 ghastly weather? HA! It's always sunny here in SoCal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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