dbb Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Trip: Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- Date: 9/6/2012 Trip Report: Last week a group of friends and I finished up a new route on the witch doctor side of Exfoliation Dome: Snake Charmer 5.11- III 6p (9,10-,10,11-,10,10). Topo here The climb follows flakes and cracks that wind a fairly strait and sustained route up the far left hand side of the main wall. An easy approach will get you to the base in less than an hour and a half. Ralph an I had attempted this route ground up 6 years ago, but were turned back by excessive moss and dirt after a couple pitches. It laid dormant in the back of my mind until this summer when Elliot suggested we take another look. The recon showed that it was sufficiently rad to warrant a return to polish the line. Big thanks to Ralph, Elliot, Fitz, Austin, and Zac for all your hard work and keen visions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Sweet! Way to finish up the long standing project! Any action shots of the route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeedub Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Here are few photos of SnakeCharmer. Overview from base and top: Pitch One (5.9): Pitch Three (5.10): Pitch Four (5.11-): Pitch 6 (5.10): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Awesome! Glad to see some folks hitting up that side! Super Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 That looks amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Cool, that looks like fun! Gonna have to get up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Looks very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidW Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Wow! I knew that line was gonna get grabbed someday. Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Great looking pitches in there. That 1st pitch crack/flake and the 11- section look beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riley81 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Sweet looking route. I love the topo photo overlay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanman Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 That's a great looking line I've stared at many times. Well done!! So cool that Exfo's getting some new lines and ongoing interest. MH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanl Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 I don't know which looks better, the route or the topo. Thanks for putting this together! I'll look forward to checking it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 yeah dudes, nice line! thx for all the documentation (hope it drives traffic!) and the addition to my to-do list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Way to go guys! Looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 oh wow, that looks fun! nice work gentlemen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 looks superb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Who said Darrington is all slab! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 FYI: a team went up recently and reported that a significant rockfall occurred to the left of the route in the past week. Be aware that there could be rock dust and small debris that ricocheted over on the first couple pitches. Given the location of the rock fall I doubt (though could be totally wrong as I have not been there to see it yet) that any bolts were effected, though the final rappel-only ones may have been. You can easily skip this station by rapping back to the top of the first pitch anchor if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpark42 Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Here's a picture of the offending rock fall(big white scare in the center left). If anyone heads up there in the next couple of weeks. I left some gear on the first pitch and would love to get it back. Otherwise, I'll be heading out there with a friend on the 30th to access the damage (if any) and hopefully finish the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 the route has some good climbing but i would recommend jumping on it soon. the route still harbors some semi-loose blocks and dirt/lichen. without traffic, the witch doctor will quickly reclaim it. the fresh rock scar is a shortly left of the third pitch anchor. all the rap stations survived. i cleaned the offensive baubles near your rap gear. lunger has your gear and will contact you soon. thanks for your efforts dave, et al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 posted a TR on our climb yesterday. very cool route fellas! jpark42, please PM me to retrieve your gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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