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hanman

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Everything posted by hanman

  1. Mostly clear all the way to 8 mile TH (small amount of snow at mile 6), 3:00 rock has typical snow ramp at base. A small sinkhole has developed near the TH, but should be a relatively easy fix. Squire Creek on the other hand reportedly has a washout 1/2 mile prior to previous years parking lot... M. Hanna
  2. Spring Mtn

    Anyone partake of the glorious Spring Mtn this summer? Curious if anyone's working new routes or scrubbing old. I worked my azz off this summer and didn't get to play much. Living Vicariously, M. Hanna
  3. Damn bolt eatin vermin and crack fillin' super dinosaur veggies at it again.......Good on ya for trying I'm in a sort of "restoration" mode of late, and this one's definitely on the list. It's a great climb in a cool setting M. Hanna
  4. Climb: Big Four-Direct Tower Route Date of Climb: 7/30/2005 Trip Report: For about a decade, I have wondered what the most prominent Big Four Tower would be like to climb. During a bit of thrashing about looking for Ron Miller's 1971 line up the feature, I was drawn to a steep slab on the north face. Only a few years ago, it seemed to be wet almost all summer. Due to the last parched few years, however, the place dries out after a few hot days. In May 2004, Stephen Packard, James Lescantz, and I started what would become many trips up this fine wall. Last weekend, myself and Eric Gamage topped out after dragging a bivy to 1/2 way the previous day. Gear should include tiny widgets to 4", and many extendable slings. When dry enough to climb, there is no water on the route. As the lower portion of this face is in the shade most of the day, it is perfect for those days where Darrington or Static Point are entirely too warm. Generally, the climbing is on extremely hard conglomerate, with excellent face climbing in equal ratio to sinker hand/fist cracks. Overall, 2500 feet of climbing is required to reach the summit of the tower. As in other areas of Big Four, brush in gullies can be abundant and "vigorous". In the middle of the tower there is perhaps 300 feet of hellwhacking to overcome. The route likely shares upper pitches with the Miller/Guydelkon 1971 route. Approach via Ice Caves Trail, contouring east until reaching a chasm seperating the first and second towers. Go down hill about 200 feet, and look to access a bench below obvious steep slabs above. 200 feet of 4th class zigzags gains the start of the first pitch. Pitch 1: Somewhat flared but fun chimney/fist crack. 150', 5.8, gear to 4". Nice belay ledge. Pitch 2: Steep and grooved headwall with consistent 5.8+ moves for nearly 155', draws. Semi hanging belay @ 2 bolts. Pitch 3: More steep slab with interesting huecos and strangeness @ 5.9+ or .10a, 150', small tcu's + pinky tricam+ draws. Belay at good ledge. Pitch 4: Work up and right over a bulging slab with bolts (5.7). Runout 5.5 leads to a cedar tree ledge at the base of a thin fingers dihedral. #2 LoweBall protects the initial moves well. 70'. Pitch 5: Nice 5.8 dihedral steps right to the arete after crack runs out. Bolts and thin gear lead to a prominent OW pillar crack (5.7+). Belay @ 2 bolt station on sloping ledge. 145', gear to 4". Pitch 6: Amazing 5.8 hand crack for 75 feet. Belay @ large cedar with slings. Pitch 7: 4th class up and left through blueberries to reach an easy chimney notch. Belay at tree with slings. This is "1 acre ledge". Move belay up and right (100') to a cave. It is advisable to rope packs up here, rather than spelunking. Once through the cave, go up the vegetated, yet delightful gully (3rd/4th) ~ 300 feet. Pitch 8:Blocky face and chimney climbing accesses the spacious ledge below the upper slabs (5.7). 4" gear helpful. Pitch 9: A few unprotected face moves reach another great handcrack. Move left to a 2 bolt belay when crack runs out. 150' Pitch 10: Staying near crest, low to mid 5th arete is climbed to a cedar bush with slings some 150' out. Pitch 11: Working right, follow features to a unique 5.4 wide crack complete with chockstones. Step left, and over small roof to belay at a nice ledge with cedar. 150' Pitch 12: Follow white slabs within 30 feet of chasm view. Belay at small tree with slings 150' up. Hike up into the fields, or step left for great views of Sloan Peak. Scrable for about 10 minutes, using ramps to access the area below the summit spire. Pitch 13: On the west face of the spire is an excellent and somewhat hidden 5.8 hand crack. Rap sling in place. Descend the route. Slings/anchors in place. Cheers, Mark Hanna Gear Notes: Med to large rack to 4", many extendable slings, lotza H20 Approach Notes: ce Caves Trail-Mountain Loop Hwy
  5. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    The Blueberry Route on Exfo Dome has been close to falling off below the crux pitch for a couple years. 3:00 Rock recently had a big chunk fall off Superfly pitch as well as a big 'un above Revolver a couple years ago. Knitting is looking better and better. MH
  6. [TR] Mount Stuart - Girth Pillar 07/31/2018

    Wow, great work! What a remarkable day Cheers, MH
  7. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Any news on Banks Lake? Probably early but sometimes getting ok depending on plateau flow.... Cheers- MH
  8. Thanks Otto! Great write up Love that place and really happy that the road and trail conditions are not only sustaining but improving! Thanks Darrington Collaborative, FFPU, Mountaineers, and WCC !! Cheers- M.Hanna
  9. Well done gents! Great photos!! M Hanna
  10. Three O'Clock Rock

    Matt- Yer just picky. That looks just fine! Much better than a couple aluminum dowels banged through some 1" web right? Shot in the Dark won that race
  11. Trip: Exfo Dome- Proxima Wall - Ancient Melodies (of the Future)III, 5.11- Date: 8/19/2012 Trip Report: Danny Coltrane and I finally finished a new route on Exfoliation Dome in Darrington last weekend. This route is situated on the southern flank of Blueberry Hill, and provides a unique view of the buttress route and summit massif, along with some really exciting climbing on great features. In 2001 or so, good buddy S. Packard and I did an exploratory foray up the right hand margin of this wall, getting a long 3 pitches up and blanking out completely on a vertical smooth headwall before resorting to a few desperate bathooks to a ledge. The new route shares the first pitch of our 2001 effort and the previous high point anchors situated at the bottom of P4. Fast forward 2 kids, 2 dogs, a goldfish, a dozen years, lots of beer, a few pounds of penalty weight, and several new routes in between; I was drawn to the place once again in 2011. A big thanks to good friend JR Storms for humping loads on several occasions! Upper right flank of BBH P2 View from Blueberry rt Workin the veggies Frog pond on the sidewalk P4 Part way up P3 Route tops out at the gendarme straight up from my sexy head Danny on P3 crux traverse Pronounced rib at P1, top of approach gully
  12. High Ice

    Howdy CCers Some many millions of years ago, someone referenced the movie High Ice, which was shot in Darrington. I seem to recall a link to a 10 part download, but YT is no longer supporting it. Any idea how I could watch this fabled and fantastic adventure? Anyone out there got a copy (and not on BetaMax!) Thanks, M Hanna
  13. High Ice

    Haha I just saw Phyllis last evening and it didn’t even cross my mind! Will do, thanks Jason.
  14. Nice article, thanks Lowell for your tireless efforts and research over many years! Cheers, M. Hanna
  15. Best metal bands

    Pelican with RC was a great show!
  16. Best metal bands

    Russian Circles
  17. ATC Guide mode in crevasse haul system?

    The Roll N Lock has horizontal ribs, kind of like a micro/rescuescender but perhaps a bit sharper. They say it can engage webbing as well for an adjustable PAS which I though was somewhat interesting. Really light device. Here's another link to try... Link MH
  18. ATC Guide mode in crevasse haul system?

    CT Roll N Lock is pretty light and quite functional. I got one recently and use it for many rope access tasks. ATC would be terrible for this use, super inefficient as previously stated. CT Roll N Lock
  19. Haven't been up, waiting for further healing from shoulder surgery ~2 months ago Roads washed out but we're used to that drill up there right? mh
  20. Hi Michael You are in the right spot Keep in the approach gully and the slabs appear soon Enjoy!!
  21. Green Mtn 2680 Road

    A large boulder fell onto the 2680 road this winter, from a roadcut. Last Saturday, FFPU volunteers moved it off the road. Please consider joining this fine organization to lend a hand. Our FS road system and infrastructure needs assistance. FB Friends For Public Use
  22. Hey all you hordes of climbers looking to embark on a spring Spring Mtn trip, it appears the access road is blown out, MP .6. This is a well known slump area that goes every few years. Please consider getting involved with Friends for Public Use, a Darrington based non profit group dedicated to helping maintain our access roads. Current funding levels and wintertime road damage indicate this may be a difficult year, and your volunteer efforts are needed. Look em up on FB if interested- MH
  23. Buying hand drill... any advice?

    My favorite rig is a Pika drill (2 set screws), a Vaughan 22 oz ball peen with 3" cut off, and a blowout bulb (rather than a tube). 3/8" x 2.5" takes about 7 minutes from a decent stance in granite (or 30 minutes from a crappy one Blow out often to be effective. mh
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