G-spotter Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 Next up, chopping the ladder on the north ridge of Everest. Quote
Dave7 Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 I don't know... is it just me, or does David Lama look like... Naaaaaaaah... Party on, Wayne! Party on, Garth! OK... Quote
EWolfe Posted January 25, 2012 Posted January 25, 2012 This thread isn't official until Dwayner gives the "thumbs-up" for the bolt-chopping.... ...and, Party on Wayne! Quote
Coldfinger Posted January 25, 2012 Posted January 25, 2012 Next up, chopping the ladder on the north ridge of Everest. NO WAY!!! That'll get you twenty years in some Chinese hell hole slam! But don't worry it's a Chinese ladder....... Quote
billcoe Posted January 25, 2012 Posted January 25, 2012 This thread isn't official until Dwayner gives the "thumbs-up" for the bolt-chopping.... ...and, Party on Wayne! LOL, Welcome back E - and party on all! bolt discussions are like farts in the wind, they stink but briefly and are of truly little importance. Although sometimes they are loud, and can leave some sh#t behind after they blow away. It will all work out without us getting all worked up. ps, the rest of the story is that the bolts are gone, get over it. David Lama, under a official and unanimous "Raindawg indictment" wherein David Lame-O was the golden shower award winner of the year 2010 for an earlier defilement of overbolting for cameras during a Red Bullshit commercial last year, stepped up and freed the compressor route AFTER the boyz had yoinked them out, thus allegedly negating the award and previous defilement. Must be a bad-ass convention down there or sumptin'. Boyz are gettin' it dun! NEXT topix.....speed climbers with dawgs.... Quote
FFSummers Posted January 25, 2012 Posted January 25, 2012 Ive stayed mute on this issue, mostly because I will probably never find myself climbing there and haven't really earned the right to an opinion. Although if "out of towners" came and chopped at my local crag I would take issue. But, I've been reading all the talk on the forums and articles, and now with Lama's ascent and the latest news of the "choppers" it's getting interesting. Are they really being detained by Police? This is getting good. I like the part about the 40 dudes in a bar looking for mob justice. It will be interesting to see how this ugly foot note will go down in climbing history. Will they be vilified or hailed as forward thinkers? I'm guessing even though their intentions might have been good, ultimately this will go down as an example of how NOT to handle yourself while visting someone else's sandbox. Quote
bstach Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 I don't know... is it just me, or does David Lama look like... Naaaaaaaah... Party on, Wayne! Party on, Garth! OK... Lama looks more like Keanu Reeves in "Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure". "Be good to each other! And party on, dude!" Quote
Raindawg Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 This thread isn't official until Dwayner gives the "thumbs-up" for the bolt-chopping.... Quote
sobo Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 And there you have it, folks! "What a great con-try!" Quote
Choada_Boy Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 How good would those bolts be after 40 years? Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Oh, you'd clip 'em, given the alternative. Quote
G-spotter Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 given the alternative. Solid gear in splitter cracks? Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 When you've ticked it come on back and tell us about it. Quote
G-spotter Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Even better my bud Jason just did it for me. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-kruk-kennedy-statement Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Yes, that's the same as climbing it yourself, fo sho. Quote
JoshK Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Even better my bud Jason just did it for me. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-kruk-kennedy-statement Name dropping is "even better" than climbing for yourself in one of the world's most amazing places? That's an interesting take... Quote
G-spotter Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 If you want someone to tell you about it why not listen to the horse's mouth? Quote
DPS Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Free climbing the route without using the bolts is a stronger statement than chopping it. It sets a bar that future climbers can either jump higher to clear or stoop lower to crawl under. Kind of like Messner and Habler's O2-less ascent of Everest. Quote
Kimmo Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Even better my bud Jason just did it for me. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-kruk-kennedy-statement man, i just had a really hard time reading that self-justificatory piece of misleading drivel. it further saddens me that those two, with their stated reasons, took it upon themselves to do this deed. i guess it comes down to the fact that really no one would be able to justify such an act in eloquent terms. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) I'd say both bolters and cutters were douchebags for taking upon themselves to decide what's best for someone else's mountain range. Both decisions should have been left to the Argentinians. But hey, that's the Americanadian 'we know better' way. Edited January 26, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
wfinley Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 man, i just had a really hard time reading that self-justificatory piece of misleading drivel I fully agree. I foresee a new basecamp drinking game where every-time someone says "stolen from the future" they have to take a shot. I'd say both bolters and cutters were douchebags for taking upon themselves to decide what's best for someone else's mountain range. Both decisions should have been left to the Argentinians. But hey, that's the Americanadian 'we know better' way. But hey, that's the Americanadian 'we know better' way. You should be fair to the Canadians and Italians and say that it's the "euro-centric" way. Quote
orion_sonya Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Even better my bud Jason just did it for me. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-kruk-kennedy-statement man, i just had a really hard time reading that self-justificatory piece of misleading drivel. it further saddens me that those two, with their stated reasons, took it upon themselves to do this deed. i guess it comes down to the fact that really no one would be able to justify such an act in eloquent terms. Why do you think their statement it is misleading? I thought you were all for removing bolts on climbs where bolts are deemed unnecessary. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) I'm reminded of the blowhard Coloradan in Bolivia who refused to use lamas (the arejero took the trouble to show up and would just have to go home empty handed if we didn't hire him) for the carry to base camp...for a whopping $2.50 per animal, because 'he could carry his own gear, thanks'. Yeah, we all could, and that's not the point. A decent paycheck for the lama guy, and not much ego or wallet shrinkage for us, unless you're stuck in a certain 1st world, 'it's all about me' way of thinking. This tool's GF wound up eating din din at our camp several times. Better company, I guess. These guys chopped the route to satisfy a very ego centric '1st world' need...but didn't apparently think much about how it would effect the locals who have to make a living down there. They don't live there. We don't live there. Maybe the locals are all for the chop? Funny...nobody seems to have bothered to ask what they want concerning the mountain that's in their back yard, not ours. Edited January 26, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
Kimmo Posted January 26, 2012 Posted January 26, 2012 Why do you think their statement it is misleading? i might have the time and inclination to answer your question, but not right now. I thought you were all for removing bolts on climbs where bolts are deemed unnecessary. i said i'm sorry. plus, i think you broke my hand. but seriously, yes i was in favor of removing some bolts at index, on crack climbs, placed in the last 10 to 15 years. i posted both here and rcnw, and really lost my interest in doing so after hearing the divided opinion. yes i actually did take in what people said, and realized it would be a divisive act over a few pounds of metal that really rarely bother me, and only if i get on my high-horse! you ok btw? Quote
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