Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
keenwesh

compressor route chopped

Recommended Posts

I don't know... is it just me, or does David Lama look like... Naaaaaaaah...

 

DavidLama.jpgwaynes-world_l.jpg

 

Party on, Wayne! Party on, Garth! OK...

 

:lmao::lmao:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This thread isn't official until Dwayner gives the "thumbs-up" for the bolt-chopping....

 

...and, Party on Wayne! :laf:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Next up, chopping the ladder on the north ridge of Everest.

 

NO WAY!!! That'll get you twenty years in some Chinese hell hole slam!

 

But don't worry it's a Chinese ladder.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This thread isn't official until Dwayner gives the "thumbs-up" for the bolt-chopping....

 

...and, Party on Wayne! :laf:

LOL, :lmao: Welcome back E - and party on all!

 

 

bolt discussions are like farts in the wind, they stink but briefly and are of truly little importance. Although sometimes they are loud, and can leave some sh#t behind after they blow away.
It will all work out without us getting all worked up.

 

ps, the rest of the story is that the bolts are gone, get over it. David Lama, under a official and unanimous "Raindawg indictment" wherein David Lame-O was the golden shower award winner of the year 2010 for an earlier defilement of overbolting for cameras during a Red Bullshit commercial last year, stepped up and freed the compressor route AFTER the boyz had yoinked them out, thus allegedly negating the award and previous defilement. Must be a bad-ass convention down there or sumptin'. Boyz are gettin' it dun!

 

NEXT topix.....speed climbers with dawgs....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive stayed mute on this issue, mostly because I will probably never find myself climbing there and haven't really earned the right to an opinion. Although if "out of towners" came and chopped at my local crag I would take issue. But, I've been reading all the talk on the forums and articles, and now with Lama's ascent and the latest news of the "choppers" it's getting interesting.

 

Are they really being detained by Police? This is getting good. I like the part about the 40 dudes in a bar looking for mob justice. It will be interesting to see how this ugly foot note will go down in climbing history. Will they be vilified or hailed as forward thinkers? I'm guessing even though their intentions might have been good, ultimately this will go down as an example of how NOT to handle yourself while visting someone else's sandbox.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know... is it just me, or does David Lama look like... Naaaaaaaah...

 

DavidLama.jpgwaynes-world_l.jpg

 

Party on, Wayne! Party on, Garth! OK...

 

Lama looks more like Keanu Reeves in "Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure".

 

"Be good to each other! And party on, dude!"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Free climbing the route without using the bolts is a stronger statement than chopping it. It sets a bar that future climbers can either jump higher to clear or stoop lower to crawl under. Kind of like Messner and Habler's O2-less ascent of Everest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Even better my bud Jason just did it for me.

 

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-kruk-kennedy-statement

 

man, i just had a really hard time reading that self-justificatory piece of misleading drivel.

 

it further saddens me that those two, with their stated reasons, took it upon themselves to do this deed.

 

i guess it comes down to the fact that really no one would be able to justify such an act in eloquent terms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd say both bolters and cutters were douchebags for taking upon themselves to decide what's best for someone else's mountain range. Both decisions should have been left to the Argentinians. But hey, that's the Americanadian 'we know better' way.

Edited by tvashtarkatena

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
man, i just had a really hard time reading that self-justificatory piece of misleading drivel

I fully agree. I foresee a new basecamp drinking game where every-time someone says "stolen from the future" they have to take a shot.

 

I'd say both bolters and cutters were douchebags for taking upon themselves to decide what's best for someone else's mountain range. Both decisions should have been left to the Argentinians. But hey, that's the Americanadian 'we know better' way. But hey, that's the Americanadian 'we know better' way.

You should be fair to the Canadians and Italians and say that it's the "euro-centric" way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Even better my bud Jason just did it for me.

 

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-kruk-kennedy-statement

 

man, i just had a really hard time reading that self-justificatory piece of misleading drivel.

 

it further saddens me that those two, with their stated reasons, took it upon themselves to do this deed.

 

i guess it comes down to the fact that really no one would be able to justify such an act in eloquent terms.

 

Why do you think their statement it is misleading?

 

I thought you were all for removing bolts on climbs where bolts are deemed unnecessary.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm reminded of the blowhard Coloradan in Bolivia who refused to use lamas (the arejero took the trouble to show up and would just have to go home empty handed if we didn't hire him) for the carry to base camp...for a whopping $2.50 per animal, because 'he could carry his own gear, thanks'.

 

Yeah, we all could, and that's not the point. A decent paycheck for the lama guy, and not much ego or wallet shrinkage for us, unless you're stuck in a certain 1st world, 'it's all about me' way of thinking.

 

This tool's GF wound up eating din din at our camp several times. Better company, I guess.

 

These guys chopped the route to satisfy a very ego centric '1st world' need...but didn't apparently think much about how it would effect the locals who have to make a living down there. They don't live there. We don't live there. Maybe the locals are all for the chop? Funny...nobody seems to have bothered to ask what they want concerning the mountain that's in their back yard, not ours.

Edited by tvashtarkatena

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Why do you think their statement it is misleading?

 

i might have the time and inclination to answer your question, but not right now.

 

I thought you were all for removing bolts on climbs where bolts are deemed unnecessary.

 

i said i'm sorry. plus, i think you broke my hand.

 

 

but seriously, yes i was in favor of removing some bolts at index, on crack climbs, placed in the last 10 to 15 years. i posted both here and rcnw, and really lost my interest in doing so after hearing the divided opinion. yes i actually did take in what people said, and realized it would be a divisive act over a few pounds of metal that really rarely bother me, and only if i get on my high-horse!

 

you ok btw?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×