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Posted

reckon hi-tech communication gear and rescue equipment are like bolts - yah, you can not use them, but the temptation to use is pretty strong - sure, you can go on an expedition w/ no rescue plan, but if you die, your family and friends are likely to remember you as being a selfish asshole.

Posted (edited)

In the old days rescue involved a hike to the car and drive to the nearest pay phone or banging on a door of a building that looked occupied. Getting dropped by plane with a date selected for pickup in advance was even more exciting.

 

Some places do require sat phones now, but lots of folks update their Facebook status at camp.

Edited by Feck
Posted
reckon hi-tech communication gear and rescue equipment are like bolts - yah, you can not use them, but the temptation to use is pretty strong - sure, you can go on an expedition w/ no rescue plan, but if you die, your family and friends are likely to remember you as being a selfish asshole.

 

plus, “just don’t use phones” or "just don't clip bolts" isn’t really the same. It’s one thing to be “out there” and on your own because that’s the way it is – and quite another to pretend to be out there and avoid safe retreats in favor of dangerous ones "just because." Bonatti’s adventure is neat because he overcame dangerous odds out of necessity -- he didn't HAVE any options, that's why it's a cool story.

 

If you have options but don't use them, it's just not the same.

Posted

The reliance on technology seems to be getting to be the norm these days - see the excess of use of SPOT and such. But you can still get away from it all. It wasn't all that long ago that a trip in the Cascades meant isolation. In the late '80s while working on a NR Stuart variation (unintentional!) my partner took a whipper 30 ft from the top and seperated his shoulder. We tried to pop it back with no success. A party that came up the hiker's route graciously offered to get a rescue going. After an uncomfortable evening my buddy was plucked off the summit by heli. We took no pictures because we were mortally embarassed that we could not get off the peak under our own power. Well, we could have but it would have taken days.

 

Now it seems to be taken for granted that help will arrive - and rather quickly.

Posted (edited)

Technology isn't the only thing that changed. On average, objectives are today also a lot more ambitious, which may not have been possible to the same extent without the added security offered by com technology. As pointed out it is possible to leave the tech gadgets at home for added adventure.

 

A reenactment of the FA of the Bonatti Pillar with Bonatti himself (in french):

[video:youtube]hvl2BYsg_EU

 

 

 

 

Edited by j_b
Posted (edited)

The second the weather turns to shit, you're out there.

 

I was doing the standard on Hood and came upon a guy who'd been struck in the chest with a rock and was only partially conscious. Weather was coming in. I did cell phone in a rescue...it took another 8 hours for a chopper pick him up...even though we were basically just above the Timberline ski area. I can't believe anyone who knows what their doing relies at all on any guarantee of quick rescue...or rescue at all. I don't.

 

I was thinking that on Lib Ridge recently. All the technology in the world isn't gonna save your ass if it all goes wrong high up.

 

A lot of popular mountain spots have no cell service. Road access is worse than it used to be, and there aren't that many, if any more, mountain flying helo pilots available for rescue than there were a couple or more decades ago. There are probably more SR folks, but has the percentage of technical climbing SR folks gone up? Hmmm....

 

Of course, fifty + years ago there was nada. If, in fact, folks nowadays are less prepared for self-rescue, and their are more gumbies out there, are the average chances for surviving an accident more or less nowadays?

 

I think 20 or 30 more pages here may well resolve this issue....

 

 

 

Edited by tvashtarkatena

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