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My weekend rant.


Alasdair

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Seems like every 2-3 years there's a thread that reminds me of the prize winner from my personal history.

 

Really was the best anchor possible under the circumstances, and followed the most impressive lead by anyone that I've ever roped up with.

 

2319scary_web.jpg

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One half of one of our rap anchors for a work session clearing a rockfall scar back in 2006 - completely servicable.

 

6299Beacon_2006_Au_Naturale.jpg

 

I'm not really seeing a problem with the op's au naturale anchor pic. I'm way more concerned about the

temperament of all you youngins these days; or to quote Riddick: "skittish, Toombs - very skittish..."

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I'm not really seeing a problem with the op's au naturale anchor pic. I'm way more concerned about the

temperament of all you youngins these days; or to quote Riddick: "skittish, Toombs - very skittish..."

 

Temperament of all you youngins? Sorry I like bomber anchors Gandolf.

 

Please explain to the class how the OPs picture is a good idea for a top rope anchor that's gonna be yarded on all day by a group of flailing nooblets?

 

Oh and your chockstone looks bomber to me. Somewhat different scenario though considering you weren't teaching a class at the time and your rock actually looks to be IN the crack.

 

Fucking Furyans. Defiant to the end.

 

 

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Dave Dingleman's thumb in his photo of Dale Bard arriving at Birdwell's RURP anchor on the first ascent of Sea of Dreams.

 

And not a locker in sight :)

 

 

Aren't there a couple of bolts or rivets in that hook anchor? Bottom left and right.

 

I've heard the same thing 20 years ago, A bolt is just out of frame.

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I thought the two chockstone anchor was a back-up? also dont believe everything you see, I could go to my backyard and take a picture of ?[not saying it isnt a true belay but..]also why do people/magazines post pictures upside down/backwards? I know it makes it look steeper but in reality it makes it look like your trying to make it look steeper/harder than it really is. I guess I anwsered my own question, but it bugs me

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Sooner later it was inevitable that this thread would have to move.

Huh? Off, you just moved a climbing topic out of a climbing forum because someone decided to be a dick? what's that about? Why bother with any forums at all? Just make it 'spray.com' if any dick can bump a legitimate thread into spray...? Last I checked the notion of 'moderating' in a forum is flagging and acting on inappropriate posts versus threads.

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