Favorite Rope Brands?

[layton]

What's y'all's favorite ropes? Seems to be an item that doesn't get scrutinized too much.

 

I used to love my Beal Stinger II (9.4mm). I replaced it with a Petzl 9.4 and found it way too stiff. I've switched to BlueWater Dominator 9.4 and love it. It's also the lighetst 9.4 out there.

 

For twins I always have used Bluewater's Ice Floss.

 

So far bluewater gets my vote!

 

What's your experience/fav ropes?

Petzl, PMI, Bluewater, Beal, New England, Maxim, Sterling, Mammut?

 

I have a 9.8 that is indestructible, but can't for the life of me remember who made it? I think it's a bluewater...

I had a sterling 9.1 and found it to be to stretchy on big whips, and it got chopped in 5 places on it's last trip. It's now my sketch 80' gym rope.

[summitchaserCJB]

Chopped in 5 places? What routes are you climbing? I've had a rope get chopped on a sketchy descent off of Icicle buttress.

[rocky_joe]

Anything but Edelweiss, those ropes are shit. I love my beal and I have a few friends with Millets who rate them highly.

[ConorB]

just ordered an edelrid 10mm 60m off of bouldering .com for 100 bux... damn good price. friend just ordered one and i held it looks great and feels nice havent belayed or climbed on one tho. cant wait for mine.

 

have a pmi 9.7 and love it... supple

 

a mammut flash superdry 10.4 and like it too but gets realllly dirty and is kinda stiff but a great projecting rope.

[Dane]

For no other reason than they seem to be making what I want, I own a Beal Joker 9.1 (2 seasons of little use and is close to replacement) and a set of Ice Twin 7.7 lines (3 seasons of decent use and need to be replaced).

 

I have really liked both of these Beal rope systems. Although I wish they would last longer.

 

I have a few other ropes Mammut, NEI, something from REI and a few others for cragging. Nothing to get excited about. I wanted a cheap rope for that use.

 

But I really like a stiff rope so next time I'll look at what Petzl offers.

[mountainmandoug]

I've mostly liked Mammut and Sterling ropes. My Stearling Nano 9.1 is far and away my favorite rope, I like it much better than the other skinny ropes belonging to friends that I've used. It has a very smooth sheath and is stiff enough to reduce friction but not so stiff as to ever be a problem.

[G-spotter]

Best ropes I've had were Edelrid and Mammut.

 

Worst was Maxim. Sheath separated from core.

[dennyt]

My first rope was a Petzl Zephyr 10.3. It got chopped in Ouray and then again after a whipper (soft spot). It got super fuzzed-up, like ridiculously fuzzy, in 1 year's weekend-warrior use. Would not recommend. Now it's covered in sap and dedicated to arborism.

 

So far I love my Edelweiss Onsight 9.9 with the bi-weave. Picked up a pair of the 8.5 Sharps (doubles), stretchy & twisty but so far so good.

[dberdinka]

I've only experienced massive inconsistency from every manufacturer I've tried. I had a couple Sterling Marathons I loved, my latest seems to be falling apart quicker though. Once had a great Mammut Galaxy replaced by a total piece of crap Galaxy. My first pair of Edelrid Twins lasted for years, on my second pair the sheath starting slipping all over after occasional use.

 

Big crap shoot. Though I'm liking my $95 special New England Rope right now.

[Pete_H]

In my experience Beals have always performed well -light and handle well - but not that durable, maybe best for snow and ice.

 

I had a pair of Edelweiss doubles, not the lightest in the world. But hell, those things survived a trip to Alaska, a couple ice climbing trips to Canada, tons of alpine routes in the Cascades, and the NE Ridge of Mt. Alberta. Finally retired them b/c I figured I should, not b/c they were damaged at all.

 

I currently have some Mammut doubles and a 9.7. I love the way they handle, but we'll see how durable.

 

[underworld]

most durable rope i've used: edelweiss sharp. (if you're looking for burly) several big walls, lots of jugging, few big falls.. still looks great!

 

kinda pricey tho.

 

 

[crackers]

I love my sterling nanos, they've got soft catch / stretchy down, but I tend to get rid of thin cords quickly as I never develop 'amourous affection' for their history the way I used to love thick cords.

 

I also like Mammut, Beal and Bluewater ropes, more or less in that order.

 

I've heard good things but never used Metolius or Lanex.

 

I do not like Edelweiss or Edelrid or Maxim and I'll never use a Petzl rope.

[Le Piston]

I'm with you...the Beal Stinger was the best alpine rope I ever used. I haven't seen any lately or I'd buy it instantly. I've also had good luck with PMI and Mammut ropes.

[Jens]

For making clips on steep overhangs or clipping while wearing winter gloves, I like stiff ropes.

I still subscribe to the adage "buy cheap and buy often". For sending purposes and handling, it is better to buy 3 cheap ropes a year than one expensive rope every 3 years.

 

I like Petzl and Mammut

I hate Blue Water.

 

I also tend to perfer single pick over double pick weaves.

 

Their is nothing worse than showing up for a day of cragging and meeting your parnter who declares "We'll use my 10.2mm 50m rope".

Edited March 5, 2010 by Jens

[layton]

Chopped in 5 places? What routes are you climbing? I've had a rope get chopped on a sketchy descent off of Icicle buttress.

 

I attempted another steeper route up the NE face of Wheeler Pk in Nevada - lost 3 ropes

[layton]

Maybe Darin's on to something - responses are all over the board.

Dane, the petzl 9.4 is the stiff one they make, the 9.7 is more supple. I like a stiffer rope too, but the petzl kept snarling waaaay to much (and I do know how to properly uncoil a rope).

[powderhound]

Best alpine/ice: Mammut 8.9 70M super sick and light

 

Cragging: 9.8 Mammut.

 

I have been spending the extra 20 or 40 bucks and just buyign their ropes, seem to hold up well and are supple right out of the bag.

[Pete_H]

 

Their is nothing worse than showing up for a day of cragging and meeting your parnter who declares "We'll use my 10.2mm 50m rope".

 

Except when he says "let's use my 11mm 50m"

[summitchaserCJB]

"I attempted another steeper route up the NE face of Wheeler Pk in Nevada - lost 3 ropes" Epic.

[matt_warfield]

Best alpine/ice: Mammut 8.9 70M super sick and light

 

Cragging: 9.8 Mammut.

 

I have been spending the extra 20 or 40 bucks and just buyign their ropes, seem to hold up well and are supple right out of the bag.

 

I agree completely. I used to go for sale ropes which were usually from a miscellaneous provider and usually butt ugly. I decided to pay a bit more for the consistent quality of Mammut.

[pms]

my experience owning these 23 ropes tends to support the Berdinka theory. Of these ropes, I've only been unhappy with the performance of two. Least favorite by a wide margin was the MSR 11. Loved it, but hated it.

 

Handling wise, I prefer my skinny ropes a bit on the stiff side, and my fat ropes a bit softer.

 

Goldline 3/8”

Mammut 9

MSR 11

(2) Edelrid 11

Chouinard/Mammut 10.5

Edelrid 10

Mammut Galaxy 10

Edelrid 11.5

(3) Edelweiss Stratos 9

(3) Edelweiss Sharp 8.5

Blue Water 9.8

(2) Roca 8

Edelweiss 8.5

Beal 8.1

Sterling 9.6

Millett 9.8

PMI 8.1

 

[G-spotter]

11.5?

that's fatter than your mom!

[pms]

co-owned that one with Kit. His idea for the extra margin and comfort level jumaring, etc. Loved that rope.

 

way to go with the hockey

[BigSky]

My top picks are Mammut, Millet, and Beal.

[Pete_H]

co-owned that one with Kit. His idea for the extra margin and comfort level jumaring, etc.

 

Kit probably liked it b/c it was better for hauling kegs with.