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ConorB

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Everything posted by ConorB

  1. DPS are you referring to the 2nd/3rd (depends how you pitch it out) pitch of remorse with that creaky hollow flake below 2 tree ledge? goes left toward the 5.7 pitch up to the ledge? that is was i was envisioning as well. i don't recall any flakes above on the right traverse pitch, but sure know that horn with all the slings. i think one of mine was welded into that crack for a while. I was not referring to Remorse, I've never done it. I do not remember any creaky flakes on the entire route, except for the thin flake right at the end of pitch three; the crux, sloping hand crack. The thin flake never seemed creaky, maybe a bit friable though. I recall two ways to 'approach' the crux sloping hand crack traverse, both of these start at Two Tree Ledge. An easy, blocky, grassy, dihedral, and a vertical hand crack to the climber's right of the dihedral. Right after the sloping hand crack (with a broken off Friend in it for years), there was a short, vertical section that started out as fingers behind a thin flake, depositing one on the sloping ledge with the tree. The next pitch climbs a low angle face to a steep flaring corner behind a pedestal. The top of the pedestal is the beginning of the 100 meter hand crack, spilt by Library Ledge. Ah, yes. I remembered the sling swallowing horn at the beginning of the rightward crack but had forgotten about the flakes further out.
  2. DPS are you referring to the 2nd/3rd (depends how you pitch it out) pitch of remorse with that creaky hollow flake below 2 tree ledge? goes left toward the 5.7 pitch up to the ledge? that is was i was envisioning as well. i don't recall any flakes above on the right traverse pitch, but sure know that horn with all the slings. i think one of mine was welded into that crack for a while.
  3. on the Nextdoor App (kinda like a neighborhood facebook) someone just posted: Found Climbing Gear Phinney "A bunch of trash and (I assume) stolen gear were dumped in my yard waste bin this weekend. Found: two pairs of climbing shoes in shoulder bag and new green and white climbing helmet." I did not post it but felt it was worth sharing along. it was posted Mon Oct 24th 2016 midday
  4. where would they have been, color, brand, marks if any... I'm in seattle. Conor
  5. Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume I (second edition) - Nelson/Potterfield - in new condition $15 sold Climbers Guide to Smith Rock (old 1992 version) - Watts - some wear and marks $5 im in seattle and would prefer to not ship going up to canada next week so i could deliver north as well
  6. This guy has reposted. Same Photo, different caption http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/3028097450.html
  7. I'm trying to grasp the concept of what you're describing but i think others are spot on. some ropes have a plastic id filament that runs the entire length of the rope. it may have a batch number printed on it at regular intervals. i am under the impression from other forum threads that this can be used as a serial number for ropes in the event of failure/research. do these 'strands' stick out the ends? or random spots in the sheath?
  8. Yeah! that upper part is fun pulling that little roof part. Sharp crimps and tiny edged for feet. the first pitch is a great too
  9. Marsupials are really fun. Delerium Tremens is amazing. kind of a short smith version of incredible hand crack in indian creek. super fun and paired with Thin Air (5.10a) on Koala, along with a solo of round river (5.4 no rappel needed) and a solo of South Buttress (5.5x) brogan spire, makes a great day. i believe this area gets great sun most of the day.
  10. dont fuck around with sprinklers. ask alpinemonkey. his brothers roommate broke the sprinker in their dorm room causing something on the order of $40 grand worth of damage due to flooding the floors below. those things spit out a lot of water really quickly and can only be turned off by the fire department.
  11. You are not required to file a flight plan for a VFR flight. Curious what similarities you see between that and a DUI crash? Because I see none other than maybe the fact it was late a night. Night flying can be extremely pleasant, if I was willing and able, I would not hesitate to take a 2am flight, it's no safer than a 7pm (in the dark) flight, in fact probably safer due to zero traffic. Probably a little too early to speculate there num1mc. You a pilot? My condolences to those lost in the crash. This crash is tragic and i feel terrible for the friends and family of those involved. A lot of conjecture by n1. The owner of the FBO/Flight School that the aircraft was registered to said that he was not aware of the flight but this does not necessarily mean that the flight is unauthorized. Often at FBOs flight instructors or staff at the front desk are able to dispatch an aircraft if they follow the steps that the company has in place. From the information available to us from the media, this flight was completely legal in the eyes of the FAA as well. There are a number of requirements to be able to legally go on a flight and these include currency requirements (landings at night for example). There is no information to lead us to believe that the pilot in command (the flight instructor employed at this FBO) was acting illegally. Many of the services provided by the FAA (Flight Plan filing, Radar Flight Following) are opt in services, especially while in what is called Class G Airspace (Uncontrolled Airspace). There is a completely different story while in say SeaTac airspace (Class B) where flight following and tower communication are mandatory. Flight plans must be filed by all airlines, anyone operating under IFR, and anyone going in or out of the country. The alcohol statement, while possible, is again just a guess. as pilots we have much more stringent requirements about alcohol before flight as compared to drivers. As a pilot, you may not operate an aircraft in any manner with over .04% bac -AND- you may not have had alcohol (technically listerine touching your lips counts as well) within the previous 8 hours. This is something that many pilots are very observant of for obvious reasons and serious consequences. while I'm not saying that you are flat out wrong, i am saying that it is a good idea to not spray off opinion as fact. If you are curious about the reasons for this accident the NTSB will likely have a preliminary accident report within the next couple weeks on its Aviation Accident Database.
  12. lookin to do some cragging or even some alpine jaunts. have car/rack etc...
  13. describe the photos you took and the participants that would be in said photos. im in a place with spotty interweb and have been checking in infrequently but will do my best to keep an eye on this site. PM
  14. google translate helped me make some sense of it
  15. i used something similar to that 1-2mm thin foam packing wrap and just wrapped around a bunch and then covered with duct tape. id assume that athletic foam pre-wrap would work well. i can get a photo posted at some point if you'd like.
  16. ClimbX theme crown, high spot, peak, zenith, crescendo, release, the Spot, 4play, deluge
  17. go get some sunburns at vantage. here is NOAA weather for approx where Millennium Falls are http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=47.510823899415946&lon=-120.72052001953125&site=otx&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text not lookin so good.
  18. yeah banks lake sorry http://maps.google.com/maps?q=47.84728,-119.117289&num=1&t=h&sll=47.842456,-119.108748&sspn=0.017109,0.044932&ie=UTF8&ll=47.846532,-119.122117&spn=0.008554,0.022466&z=16 punchbowl was very thin at bottom, good up top. wet though. trotskys revenge was good at bottom thin and wet at top but all in all it was great. not any big scary deathcicles above either. some small stuff came down but nothing really bad.
  19. Trotskys, - Punchbowl climbing trotskys, my brothers first day on ice at top of punchbowl
  20. how was rainbow? would you recommend going to 11worth or punchbowl for tomorrow?
  21. yeah i use Petzl's ice clipper. but i have heard that folks seem to like the bd fin for racking screws. they don't make them anymore due to the fact that they would spontaneously combust. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/955458/Re_Best_Biner_for_Ice_Screw_Ra#Post955458 that little t slot is a weird thing as well. The biner just caught my eye and reminded me of a wiregate version of the fin. i just worry about the ice clipper breaking and getting bent over a barrel halfway up a climb
  22. i gotta say keep "to the top of denali". if at least only for the sourdough expedition. there are some other really fine stories in that book to but that one stands out as one of the amazing climbing adventures in north american climbing history.
  23. Screw Racking biner? thoughts? [img:left]http://www.pawprince.com/pawprince/design/fin/polished.jpg[/img] BD Fin left. Trango Right. 24kn major, 8kn minor, 7kn open. enough so your screws dont go tumbling downhill. i know that people were into the fin for racking. thought id put this one out there as well. not as deep of a basket as the fin but seems rather deep. http://www.departmentofgoods.com/trango-directional-wire-carabiner?CMP_SKU=TRG0036&MER=0406&mr:trackingCode=DA700797-47F9-DF11-9C39-001517B1882B&mr:referralID=NA&avad=36495_d12468ad
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