New Routes in the Northwest

[Blake]

After getting to climb and repeat some of the new routes in the area which have been established over the last few years, I have been inspired to list them out with links to topos/descriptions. My hope is to keep adding to this list with new routes or ones I missed along the way, so if you see omissions, please let me know.

 

Perhaps next time you are sitting around planning your weekend but not feeling inspired by the routes you haven't done in your guidebook, you can get some inspiration here. It would also be great to see some of the newer routes get deserved traffic and become the area classics!

 

Here's the link -> New Routes List

 

[el jefe]

thanks for putting this list together.

[jshamster]

Yo Blake.

Nice list. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

 

Couple of things:

 

- there is one more route put up by Chris on the Roan Wall - Stage Right .10b III

 

- it's Johannesberg with an E at the end not a U.

 

Thanks again.

 

Cheers.

Jimbo

[DPS]

I was pleased to see the winter/spring routes addressed. Nice job.

[Pete_H]

You should author a new Select Guide.

[Choada_Boy]

Your link didn't work for me, but I found it on your main page. Great job putting it all together!!!

[Gary_Yngve]

great list. pineapple express and variations should probably go up there too.

[Blake]

Thanks guys! keep the additions and whatnot coming! If anyone can suggest a better way to organize the spring/winter routes, that would be awesome.

 

 

[t_rutl]

looks great Blake...most of those routes are a few seasons outa my level but shit yeah they look like fun!!

[John Frieh]

You should add whether or not the proposed grade has been verified or not

[olyclimber]

by an official timer?

 

thats a very cool list Blake. CC.com select. It would be cool to what see others list would look like.

 

 

[Sherri]

Nice work, Blake.

 

 

Mine doesn't quite fit in with the alpine stuff, but I've got a pile of topos of recently-developed crags around the Icicle(Memorial Buttress, Bridge Creek Crags, O-zone, etc) that were given to me by an anonmyous source last year. Been wondering how to disseminate the info without offending whoever originally made them up(they look professional in quality but show no copyright info). If I get to Rope Up, maybe I should "accidentally" leave a few copies of them lying around?

[Jens]

Thanks Blake!

--------------------------------

 

We really have some serious untapped late winter early spring mixed potential in our range. Not really alpine ice but more scottish style stuff. Sharpen them' tools!

[pink]

nice job blake... you guy's are doing some badass stuff, best stuff i've seen on this site to date.

[John Frieh]

by an official timer?

 

no... more like if they are all really grade IVs or not

[olyclimber]

they are until someone else goes out and proves they aren't. its not like climbing needs yet another rating like "not yet seconded and proven". like this one for instance...does it also need that caveat?:

 

 

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2009/08/slesse-east-face-attempt-or-why-sean.html

[Blake]

by an official timer?

 

no... more like if they are all really grade IVs or not

 

Hey John,

 

I'm not sure what you mean about "verification" of grades. I always assume that a team's first impression of the route is just that... a first (and singular) impression, meant to give a general difficulty grade. I just wanted to create a handy list of new, unpublished routes for people to have available, supplementing their guidebooks when planning a trip

 

It's easy to miss a hold, stuff-up a crux sequence, etc on any climb, let alone a new route in the mountains, so a team's reported grade might change with numerous repeats. Unless climbing them myself (example, The Passenger) I wont list routes any differently than how they were reported in the AAJ, NWMJ, etc by the folks such as yourself who were ambitious enough to climb them for the first time.

 

In this thread and previous others, you've alluded to people reporting their new grade III routes as grade IV. Are there certain climbs that you are referencing?

[John Frieh]

Wasn't proposing an additional rating scheme... would just hate to see the grades around here soften. Seems more and more people are padding their commitment estimate just enough to meet the AAJ grade IV cutoff.

 

Save Index! The crag and the grading style!

[John Frieh]

And by all means great job on putting together the list

[pink]

who cares... if some speed demon comes along and climbs it in 5 hours do you down grade it to a grade II or III?

 

john, why don't you just compliment the guy and get over that crap. you're kinda coming off as a dickhead like myself and you're not.

[pink]

And by all means great job on putting together the list

 

 

disclaimer?

[Rad]

Yes, cool list Blake. A new Select-type guide would be in order. CC.com route wiki may provide one mode of dissemination.

 

The grade IV defn of 'all day' is pretty vague. Lynn Hill did the nose in a day, and others may take all day to do Dierdre. Instead just list a the number and difficulty of pitches (8 pitches, 5.11- vs 17 pitches 5.6 and/or length (500ft, 1500ft, 4000ft).

[ken4ord]

Excellent!!! Now I just need to get back there so I can get on some these climbs.

[shapp]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=484680

 

What no Big 4 Tower Route on the list?

 

[pms]

Nice list of climbs. You've probably heard rumors about some new climbs on Squire Cr. Wall.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/902823/Squire_Creek_Wall#Post902823

 

Supposed to be the Holy Greyell.