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Posted

Back when I was a kid my dad told me, "Crag climbing is fun, but it's only practice climbing for the real stuff in the alpine." He otter know.

 

In no particular order:

 

Complete NE Ridge of Slesse with the Crossover descent

NW face of Forbidden

South face of Prusik

Liberty Ridge (Ok maybe Ptarmigan)

North face of Viennese

Backbone Ridge on Dragontail.

 

One of these days I'll climb Thermogenesis and dump my other two Rainier choices. :grlaf: Ok maybe not.

 

 

Posted

aye, chest beating spray fest. i'll play.

 

S. Howser Tower, B-C

Slesse, NEB w/ Crossover sufferfest dumbassess

Grand Wall

Rainier, Liberty Ridge w/ near death dumbassness

Shoshone Spire, South Face (need some MT luv)

 

Posted

I cant speak for the N. face but the south face of this peak is a vertical scree field. Book claims it to be a good early-season rockclimb. We found one enjoyable pitch, the crux pitch, which was the only pitch that had solid rock and gear. The rest of the time we spent pulling off holds, placing gear behind exfoliating flakes and cussing and spitting at the amount of choss on this shit pile. The approach was pretty heinous too, including a vertical tree/bushwack and a wonderfully loose talus/boulderfield with beachball size marbles that you just cant avoid.

 

I must admit that this was my first peak in the Northwest and at the time was accustomed to the casual alpine rock of the Sierras but I think even now after living here for 10 years that this S. face of the Viennese would take the cake for the biggest piece of crap that Ive done.....I hear the n. face is pretty good though :)

Posted

It seems like there are various quasi "neighborhoods" in the cascades which feature several good climbs to represent the region.

 

I am thinking along the lines of the Hwy 542 trifecta of Nooksack Tower, NW Arayete on Mt. Shuksan, and North Ridge on Baker. Another might be the Cascade Pass: Torment-Forbidden, North Face Buckner, and NE Buttress J-Burg. I'm sure there are other examples too.

Posted
I cant speak for the N. face but the south face of this peak is a vertical scree field. Book claims it to be a good early-season rockclimb. We found one enjoyable pitch, the crux pitch, which was the only pitch that had solid rock and gear. The rest of the time we spent pulling off holds, placing gear behind exfoliating flakes and cussing and spitting at the amount of choss on this shit pile. The approach was pretty heinous too, including a vertical tree/bushwack and a wonderfully loose talus/boulderfield with beachball size marbles that you just cant avoid.

 

I must admit that this was my first peak in the Northwest and at the time was accustomed to the casual alpine rock of the Sierras but I think even now after living here for 10 years that this S. face of the Viennese would take the cake for the biggest piece of crap that Ive done.....I hear the n. face is pretty good though :)

 

I doubt its that bad... you're probably just a wuss :eveeel:

Posted

Your probably right. Probably off route too, but I think Ill stay with the "A" climbs from the Alpine Select book anyways. Too many clean classic lines to do than to waste time with rubble. Springbok Arete looks cool.

Posted
colchuck balanced rock-south face of prussik, girth pillar or north ridge of stuart

 

I mean no disrespect here, Eric, and maybe I am missing something ... but have you climbed Girth Pillar? I can well believe it is a cool little feature in a neat place but it has a pitch and a half or two pitches of hard climbing on an otherwise moderate alpine ramble. And it is a big ramble.

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