Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TMO

  1. Mt Hood

    I am driving down tonight, can anyone tell what this temp inversion is doing high on the mountain?
  2. Rope Up or Solo?

    I all depends on the circumstance, but I typically rope up when there are hidden crevasses (glaciers) and on technical terrain when putting in gear, otherwise I take the rope off.
  3. Alpine Rope

    I use either the 70M Serenity or twin Blue Water Ice Floss depending on the route. I like 'em both.
  4. Kautz screw size?

    I usually carry 3 long screws on that route. It is hard to say what the current conditions are (any trip reports?). Sometimes it is snow, sometimes ice.
  5. Beta on Tatoosh needed

    I was there 2 weeks ago and did the Zipper on Lanes Pk. Still loads of snow but at least the Stevens Canyon Road is open. We hit Lanes Pk early in the am, it was slightly above freezing with mashed potatoes snow. We used no flotation without any trouble but in the afternoon it would have been a different story. Avy issues..... most of the "normal" spring slides appear to have already slid, at least on Lanes, but there was certainly some potential for more, especially (or obviously) during the heat of the day. But, being 2 weeks ago it is hard to say what is going on right now. Let us know how it goes!
  6. I am heading to St Helens this weekend and curious if anyone has been up in the last few days and knows the condition of the snow pack. Is floatation needed?
  7. St. Helens Conditions

    Thanks Erik!
  8. Rainier Trail Food

    I seem to always lose my appetite at elevation, so mainly eat for fuel. I normally go with Gu (or similar), delicious halva, and snickers.
  9. Some ice axe questions

    Don't forget that with a good self belay you won't be using the self arrest that often
  10. That Gridlock looks nice, I've gotta get one of those to try out.
  11. Bad experience at Feathered Friends

    Just listening to Raindawgs rants makes me feel like pounding pins and grid bolting!
  12. Climbing Partner In Seattle/Tacoma Area

    Hey Nick, Troy Moss here.... Count me in!
  13. Mammut Mamook

    I am seriously thinking about getting a pair of these. Does anyone have any experience with them? I will be using them for an all around alpine boot.... Ice, easy rock,and volcano slogging. I have also considered the LaSportiva Alp GTX. Help!
  14. Climb...

  15. Mammut Mamook

    By the way; They fit perfect. LaSportiva feels a touch narrower to me.
  16. I can do that pretty good..... now if I can just learn to ski better!
  17. First Ascents - how to

    Seriously lame attempt at humor. I know you like like to spray, but jesus chrylser put a frickin' filter on.
  18. Mt Hood Summit Bid

    "a nice weather window in mid-late Feb. - about 2+ weeks - and although most people forget this it seems to happen every year" Every year since I've been paying attention to it (20!!!). Now the secret is out.
  19. Helmets ?

    Always in the 'pine, almost never cragging and never sport climbing. Though I have a nagging thought that I should wear a helmet during all climbing.
  20. Perhaps I am being overly dramatic, but I find the relationship between partners sacred. You share what could be life or death decisions and have each others back if the shit hits the fan. The required trust takes some time to develop. I have had 2 bad experiences with last minute climbing partners. Both times I was pissed.... half at them and half at myself for not warming up on something easy first to sniff each other out. It is really a gamble to climb with someone you don't know (but I still do it occasionally). Things could go really good, really bad or somewhere in between. I've been climbing with my brother for years, so we have a routine that requires very little discussion and our fitness level is very similar. Climbing with anyone else always requires more effort, even if they are an excellent, skilled climber.
  21. Mt Hood Summit Bid

    Generally (many will probably disagree) May is a crap shoot with the weather, but there will be plenty of snow cover still.
  22. Mt Hood Summit Bid

    I have always had my best luck on Hood (conditions wise) in February, March and April.