G-spotter Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 Ya, it's hard to think of a local peak with higher geothermal flux than the Baker summits. Quote
Jens Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 On both the approach and descent, Loren and I also noticed a lot of other water ice flows "in" that would be fun to climb on Colfax and the surrounding cliff bands. --------------- Longer water ice season than Colorado or Montana! Quote
CascadeClimber Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Here's a shot of the hard route, just in case anyone is wondering:   You can see the party on the Cosley-Houston to the right. The leader is on the upper pillar.  Here is the full-res version so you can figure out pitches and screw placements  www.cascadeclimber.com/misc/colfax/IMG_4372editedlarge.jpg  Quote
John Frieh Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Nice work everyone. Thanks for the full-res Loren Quote
ken4ord Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Every year these reports come up and make me jones big time to get on this mountain. Awesome looking climbing. Cheers for those that get on it while the going is good. Â Â Quote
kurthicks Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 that's great! It looks so much fatter than when Dylan and I did it last season around this time. way to get some! Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 Nice job Chad and Nate! Just one question, you came all the way up here and didn't call me because??? :-p Quote
Chad_A Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 Just one question, you came all the way up here and didn't call me because??? :-p we were in an f'n hurry and decided on this climb last minute! Quote
ckouba Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 Nice work gents, nothing but jealous down here. Â CK Quote
dberdinka Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 Great pics. One of the modern classics of the Cascades IMHO with great climbing, easy access, beautiful position and a really, really long season. Quote
A2THEK Posted October 23, 2008 Posted October 23, 2008 ARRRRGH! We were just ahead of you, planning on that route, but we chickened out, the start looked sketchy, on the way down , we passed you, & I saw your tools & said to myself " they're gonna do it!"Nice, stout, way to rally! now I feel like a major wimp!! I'm goin back for it now! Quote
CascadeClimber Posted October 23, 2008 Posted October 23, 2008 ARRRRGH! We were just ahead of you, planning on that route, but we chickened out, the start looked sketchy, on the way down , we passed you, & I saw your tools & said to myself " they're gonna do it!"Nice, stout, way to rally! now I feel like a major wimp!! I'm goin back for it now! Â The start was fun. The two cruxes were stout for an old man (me) in early season shape. Â Go get it! Â Oh, and I keep forgetting to say- we had one picket and it was quite useful. I rarely carry one any more, except on low-angle glacier routes, but we used it at the belay below the 2nd crux and as a running piece on the pitch above. Quote
Farrgo Posted October 23, 2008 Author Posted October 23, 2008 That thing has been climbed at least once more this season than has been reported here. Followed footsteps on the walk-off... Definately a picket could be used on each pitch, beats ice tool belay. Given the good weather, I anticipate a cc.com blitz this weekend. Quote
Alex Posted October 23, 2008 Posted October 23, 2008 For sure, and with good reason: the route is there all season, but the approach isn't going to be this easy until like next April!!! Quote
danhelmstadter Posted October 23, 2008 Posted October 23, 2008 (edited) wow, that looks like a lot of fun! - i got to get into ice climbing. thanks for all the pics and info. Â that totally sucks about jens shoes - if it was some dude, that is the lowest of low things to do - next time you may want to look into hireing a redneck in sedro-wolly to watch over your shoes with a scattergun to protect from crows, and if some scumbag brigand happens upon them, there are plenty of cracks for means of body disposal. Edited October 23, 2008 by danhelmstadter Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 27, 2008 Posted October 27, 2008 there was a zoo up there last sunday- at least 3 parties on the route (10.26). skiing on frozen crust and bare ice had to be fun too. Quote
Ade Posted October 27, 2008 Posted October 27, 2008 There were two parties on the route Sunday. The skiing looked to be pretty horrible although the crust petered out high on the glacier and there was a reasonable amount of soft stuff. Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted October 27, 2008 Posted October 27, 2008 The sunny high temp of 46 and low of 33 at 8600 today should soften things a bit for the skiing anyways. :-( Quote
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