Farrgo Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 (edited) Trip: Colfax Peak - Cosley-Houston Date: 10/19/2008 Trip Report: Climbed Cosley-Houston with Chad A. Route is in good shape. Climbed it in three pitches, one ~70m pitch to the top of the first pillar, another long pitch to the top of the second pillar and a long simul-pitch to the top. Nothing but water ice and neve. Climb would actually be several pitches longer but we simuled when needed to the top of the pillars and simuled the top pitch. Conservative estimate if fully pitched out... 6-7 pitches. Polish Route looks like it needs more time. The upper curtain and upper pillar appear to not be formed together. Certainly looked WI6 with possible mixed climbing on the uber-solid rock of the black buttes. Gear Notes: Brought 9 ice screws, used 7. Brought three pins, three stoppers, two small cams. Used one cam, one pin, one stopper. Could use a picket, but can definately get by without it. Edited October 21, 2008 by Farrgo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 nice! explains your absence from beacon this weekend that there is a big old heap of driving for 3 pitches of ice, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Jens and I were about two hours behind you. I have some pics of the two of you on the route. Let me know if you want them. Fun climbing on a great October day. L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted October 20, 2008 Author Share Posted October 20, 2008 nice! explains your absence from beacon this weekend that there is a big old heap of driving for 3 pitches of ice, eh? That's three "long" pitches of ice. Just goes to show an addict will do anything for a fix. CC - I was wondering who was behind us. I snapped a pic of you guys as well, I might not come out though because the sun was directly behind Colfax at the point. I'd love to see it, if you want to load it online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 nice work - let's see the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 nice, i'll start the ice conditions pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alps Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Nice! Looks like the ice climbing season is starting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 I have some pics of the two of you on the route. Let me know if you want them. Post em up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Here's some pics to add; not much of the route, unfortunately! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 A few more pics. You guys correct me if I'm wrong, but you were simul-climbing on all the pitches, including when the leader was on the crux pillars (which were much harder than they appeared from below or in the pics). I just don't want anyone to think you can get from the base to the top of the first crux, and from that belay to the belay above the second crux on a 70 meter rope. Here I think you are setting your first belay. You can see that the second had to climb through the first pitch crux while the leader was on the pillar. Here the leader is at the base of the second pillar. I think the belayer is in the process of pulling the belay to simul. Me leading on the first pitch, which was very fun. Jens leading the second pillar, which was harder than it looks, plus there is camera tilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 You guys correct me if I'm wrong, but you were simul-climbing on all the pitches, including when the leader was on the crux pillars (which were much harder than they appeared from below or in the pics). I just don't want anyone to think you can get from the base to the top of the first crux, and from that belay to the belay above the second crux on a 70 meter rope. That'd be correct, CC. Thanks for posting the pics! Yes, we did stretch things out; we felt comfortable with it. Nice to be on ice this early, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 That'd be correct, CC. Thanks for posting the pics! Yes, we did stretch things out; we felt comfortable with it. Nice to be on ice this early, huh? Sure is. You two are in solid shape for early season- those two cruxes were not trivial. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 What would you grade the cruxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 [sure is. You two are in solid shape for early season- those two cruxes were not trivial. Good job! Thanks- same back to ya As far as the ratings go, that's always tough for me to nail down. What are your thoughts, CC? Here's my take- just as CC says, they're both considerably tougher than they look from below. That said, I'd guess that the first one was 4+, second one solid 4. Both are relatively short lived, but the ice is funky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 (edited) The first pillar had a short section that was vertical. My measure tool of choice for such things is my hands, which became mostly useless for things like cleaning screws and holding tools. They voted again when I reached the belay with a nice early-season bout of the dreaded thaw. The sticks on the first pillar were okay, but it was running wet, which was something of a mystery to me given the temps in the low 20s and the lack of any creeks or streams on Colfax Peak. I agree with 4+, mostly because it was short. The second pillar was brittle and dry with crappy sticks and gear, but defintely off-vertical and with decent feet. 3 or 3+ with fat plastic ice. Agree with 4 as it was. It's a great route with lots of climbing like on the North Face of Chair, but with two spicey zingers tossed in and a better view. The most dangerous part of the day was walking down the toe of the glacier at dusk after all the exposed ice had frozen hard and smooth. Falling there would be very painful and likely fatal. Whoever stole Jens' shoes, trekking pole, and crampon pouch from the bottom of the glacier is an ass-clown. May you be cursed with 1000 soaking wet unplanned bivies. Edit to add: This may be the first time I've climbed an alpine ice route in the cascades where the was absolutely no sugar-snow-over-rock crappiness to deal with. The entire route was either water ice or great neve. My calves are screaming today. Edited October 20, 2008 by CascadeClimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Wow, busy day on Colfax Sunday. I was up there with BundledUpSurfer climbing Colfax and Baker via the standard routes (we are pictured in the above photo on the Roman Wall). We were jealous of you guys getting on the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Nice climbing, all! dtaylor offered an explanation for the presence of water ice in the absence of water, but I'm too lazy to track it down. Regarding the stolen gear, the ravens are notorious in that area. They once opened my pack lid, stole all my food and a first aid kit, and shit on my pack as a thank you. Most likely the case with your stuff, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Yes, I hope I'm wrong and the ravens stole both his shoes, his socks, his crampon pouch and a trekking pole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Dylan's Treatise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 explanation for the presence of water ice in the absence of water, I would hazard it has something to do with snow+sunlight = melt melt+fractured bedrock = groundwater groundwater+cliff band = seepage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 There is an unusual amount of running water on the first pillar, given: 1. It was 20F and the night had been quite cold. 2. There is no creek or stream above. 3. The second pillar was quite dry in comparison and in the same gully. 4. It's on a north aspect and only the last 50 feet of the route gets any direct sun this time of year. But we digress: It's a fun, long water ice route in Washington state and it's in. In October. Go climb it. Just watch out for those gear-stealing ravens and don't climb directly under another party. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 There is an unusual amount of running water on the first pillar, given: 1. It was 20F and the night had been quite cold. The important temperature in this case is the one inside the mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 The important temperature in this case is the one inside the mountain. >32F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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