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Posted

The whole bolt debate thing is funny. Yeah there are a bunch of places with bolts right next to protectable cracks and overbolted routes. Then again there are a lot of cool routes out there where bolts were placed with power drills or even worse power drills used while hanging from a rope. :shock:

 

I've spent years working at a job where it is simply not safe to do a cut (substitute drill) without hanging on a rope. Hanging on a rope allows you to think about exactly where you're cutting (drilling) and then do a good job.

 

I'd give 4 thumbs up for placing a bolt in a good spot by hand on lead, but at least two thumbs up for placing a bolt with a drill while hanging.

 

Dawg is at an extreme where I understand the motivation he has but get real.

 

Posted

To be fair, I believe he said something to the effect of 'anyone' can climb 5.13 is they put their energies towards it. Which is a bit like saying that anyone could run a marathon in 2 hours and 10 minutes or finish in the top 10 of the Tour de France if they just put their mind to it.

 

Um...no. Doesn't work that way.

Posted

i don't think he could, period...

 

he said "Wrong, I said given the above rules, (unlimited rehearsal, etc.) 5.13 is within the ability of MOST WHO WOULD CARE TO DO SO, INCLUDING MYSELF, AND PROBABLY EVEN YOU AND YOUR FOUL MOUTH'

Posted

Ever notice that she only winks with the left eye? I think it's a sign that she's a lefty commie symp mole in deep cover, Putin's third cousin smuggled over the Bering Strait when she was in high school.

Posted

Hey old fart your bifocals must be rose-tinted. Even back as far as the early 70's there are plenty of climbers on record as complaining about ripoffs and gear thefts. Sounds like more that NOTHING HAS CHANGED IN 30 YEARS.

 

Hey Simple-Jack!

 

Were you around and climbing back then?

If you weren't, then you probably don't know what you're talking about.

If you were, then I guess you're an "old fart" too.

 

Nothing has changed in 30 years???????

 

As I noted before, there are tons more people today calling themselves "climbers".

Thirty years ago you'd go out to the crags and if you didn't know most of the people, you probably knew of them, at least in the Northwest, thus it was very hard to pull off bad stunts like thievery. NOT SO ANYMORE.

 

Thirty years ago, you didn't have racks of gear with numerous cams costing $35+ each.

 

I'd guess there a good possibility that the current Index gear thief is some other kind of low-life, but I'd never rule out the possibility that it's someone who wants the gear to use it, i.e., a "climber".

 

Sit down, Simple Jack.

 

i started climbing in 1980- and i call your statement a complete bullshit.

Posted

Reminds me of my uncle, who was ginormous fat (5'-8", 360lbs.) and funny as bloody monkey shit on Kevbone's lip.

 

After a huge multi-course country dinner, the whole extended family was relaxing and recovering, sitting around watching the Barnum & Bailey Circus on TV. The trapeze artists were daring and highly skilled, eliciting "ooos" and "aahs" from all watching - when Uncle Jabba suddenly declared, "I used to do that."

Posted
Damn squeezin a heater there, Mrs Palin?

 

She's thinking about the first dude.

 

This raindawg fantasy realm of hard, honest trad climbers who'd never touch a bolt or anyone else's posessions has much appeal if little reality

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