Rumors of ice?? conditions update??

[Hendershot]

So my hike up to Lake Julius got changed to a Hubba Hubba day trip. It creaked and moaned at the base while we were racking up and even more when I got on it. Wet ice again. After knocking thru a plate, better ice was to be found on each swing. The brighter side was effortless foot placements. After the first pitch, the next step was poorly bonded verglas. with the fading daylight, we opted to go down instead of going around it.

 

Lillooet, here I come.

[kevino]

Update for day #2:

 

Umptanum is in for sure. The falls itself is only frozen on each side, but the drip opposite is frozen nice and so is the bowl behind the frozen drip. Lots of fun ice for screwing around. Oh, the gully by the falls is also filled with ice and another 2 minutes down the trail is more ice.

 

Any suggestions for tomorrow?

[FBCC]

or you could just drive to lillooet which is super fat

 

 

Would love to go to Lillooet, but the kids and wife won't let me get away that long this week.

Unless of course you are offering to drive me up there while I sleep on the way up and drive me back while I nap after our hard day of climbing

 

Funny thing is; it wouldn't be the first time I drove six hours each way for a day climb

[Alex]

I've updated the wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx page with this and other info, thx!

[upzmtn]

Went up to Der Leavenworth yesterday. No ice to speak of in Mountaineers Creek - assuming we found was I think were the proper walls. Surprisingly dry all around.

 

The two routes that formed last year on Dog Dome however are shaping up well. The Litter Box is on the left and climbs a cleft that is a summer rock route. It went yesterday at 3+ with a thin top out. Used a #1 and .75 Camalot and left a pin up high (and one in the snow down below) to protect the exit to the anchors. The Cat's Meow - a mixed affair on the right - felt like M5-6 WI4 (?) last year but looks a bit thinner - though climbable - with, of course, a scary top out.

 

My partner and I broke a hard-fought trail (1.5 hours to the climb!!) in there so someone ought to take advantage of it before it's buried again. Snowshoes are mandatory, as is a mystery cable crossing...bring your largest HMS-style 'biner and make it one you don't mind retiring as the cable can rough them up if you go fast. A 1" (?)pulley would be the bomb.

[Dave S]

Went skiing today up at baker, on and around Mt. Herman. I saw alot of ice up there. Pan Dome falls is fat, as is East table three. Friends of mine skied over Herman Saddle yesterday and claim that death picnic is in, however we did not ski there today so I did not see for myself. There is alot of ice on and around Mt. Herman right now, and with the current forecast it shouldn't be going away, anytime soon. have fun

[kevino]

Yo yo yo! Any conditions update. Today Justin ( summerprophet ) and I went up to Chinook Pass. We didn't see anything on Forest Road 19. Various pictures:

 

Then we continued on to Union creek falls. Right side may go, ice was full of air and top looked sketchy, pretty wet. But hey, someone with more balls than us can go get it!

 

 

The view up:

 

Justin

 

 

Anyone want to go somewhere tomorrow?

[lancegranite]

I drove past Drury falls yesterday, it looks frickin' huge.

[eldiente]

So is Druy climbable?

 

I drove past Drury falls yesterday, it looks frickin' huge.

[BillA]

Your mom is climbable.

[jja]

driving past on sunday ...

 

[rat]

http://www.nwac.us/products/SABSEA

 

lots of new snow in der as well.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

climbed white pine drool yesterday. short, but strenuous approach, with deep snow (~2ft with slow shoes) under breakable crust. Track is in now, so approach should be quick. Quite a bit of ice on the climb, with varying quality. Lots of snow on the lower angles sections, but the steep bits are nice. My battery was dead, but jared should have a picture of the wall.

[FBCC]

OK, So lets have it

 

Has anyone climbed Drury?

 

Oh' and while were at it how about an update on the status of the rest of Leavenworth?

 

Wenatchee River Climbs like the the Drip etc..?

 

Moutaineers Creek?

 

Icicle Canyon?

 

Snow Creek Wall?

 

Icicle Buttress?

 

the Rat Drainage?

 

Hubba Hubba Area?

 

Anyone know current conditions for any of these area or other specific climbs in Leavenworth?

Your input would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

Andy

 

[TrogdortheBurninator]

[FBCC]

Sorry, I have only been to a few climbs in the Leavenworth area so I don't know what every climb looks like, so I do not recognize what this climb is.

 

what is this?

[Kyle_Flick]

For the Icicle Canyon, top-outs on some of the climbs on Icicle Buttress leave much to be desired. While things are forming up low on south facing slopes, we need a good cold spell, maybe this week, to improve ice quality and adhesion to the rock.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

forecast shows some mega cold air in the long range forecast. hopefully it comes through.

 

the photo is of white pine drool.

[glassgowkiss]

long range forecast for this week predicts warm temps around sw bc. judging by conditions from last weekend better bring fins and snorkel. friggin 4 hours of driving one way for some cold shower on ice (carls berg was gushing with water). marble was crowded as usual. btw- a note to newbs- the point is to get up the climbs, not to bring them down. i realize one has to learn somehow, but blindly hacking and demolishing the lines is just a bad form.

[jmace]

Shit Bob you actually drove up there...what did you expect it was above zero all week at 1300m..

 

Between you and trogdor on the forecasts is proly about right

 

LONG TERM...

CONFIDENCE IN THIS PERIOD WAS NOT OVERLY HIGH...ESPECIALLY FOR

THIS WEEKEND AND EARLY NEXT WEEK. HAVE GENERALLY WENT WITH THE

ECMWF SOLUTION. THE MAIN MESSAGE WAS THAT THE MEDIUM RANGE

SOLUTIONS HAVE BACKED OFF ON THE IDEA OF A MODIFIED ARCTIC FRONT

MOVING ACROSS THE REGION. DO NOT BE SURPRISED IF SOLUTIONS REVERT

BACK TO THE IDEA OF A MODIFIED ARCTIC FRONT MOVING ACROSS THE

AREA.

 

so as it is forecasted temps are not looking too great..ah well the snowboarding is phenomenal!!

[G-spotter]

lillooet is looking pretty good for north facing and higher stuff thru friday with highs 0 to +5 and lows around -5/-6. lower elevation/high volume/south facng stuff will probably be wet but with short days this temperature range can build good ice in the shaded aspects...

[Alex]

updated the site.

 

http://wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx

and

http://wastateice.net/strobachcurrent.htm

[FBCC]

Thanks Alex

 

 

[selkirk]

Any recent info from the Leavenworth area?

[John Frieh]

I talked to Rat yesterday... he had this to say:

 

leavenworth received a couple inches of snow on monday/monday night and quite a bit more fell with strong winds at higher elevations. it's settled a little bit but there is a lot of snow on both north and south facing rock slabs that could slide as temperatures warm. wet loose slides and slabs from are still definitely a concern.

 

as of today, drury was looking snow covered and rotten. the pencil has about 60-80' missing from the first pitch. both of these climbs get a lot of sun and the pencil has avy danger on both the approach and climb.

 

the problem is basically too much snow/moisture and not enough cold temperatures. that said, we've been out stabbing the turf and mud with some success. and tree skiing in the backcountry has been fine, if you're into that.