Jump to content

Rumors of ice?? conditions update??


Recommended Posts

like everyone else, I am psyched to swing the tools, but am tired of having my day of possible ice climbing turn into a conditioning hike.


Yes, I know, I can just wait until later in the season or go far north, but regardless maybe we can save each other the hassle of driving far for nothing.


So, Since the rains and within a 3 hour drive of Seattle does anyone know of ice routes that are in that are worth the trip?


Or just confirm what you know is not in, to save the rest of us the long drive.






Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 166
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Trent posted some pictures of great ice conditions near colonial peak. The ice at baker ski area is in quite well, not fat, but leadable. I wish I could be more helpful. If you get the time, go to Cody, It is awesome right now, the river, is already starting to freeze over. Good luck and have fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I'm in Wyoming at the moment so i can't exactly tell you where to go. But EVERYTIME i have been to the millennium wall in leavenworth there has been ice when the rest of leavenworth looked like shit, as it always does. But its really one 1 short pitch of grade 3 or 4 ice depending on conditions you can however usually run laps on it till your hearts content.


According to this page http://www.wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx flow reversal has been climbed... and if its not in you can always play around on the rap wall.


And according to this page pan dome, as already mentioned, has been climbed, http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=21412&sid=8ab0263fdb70b62e441520322efd0920



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is what I know,


In the last 3 weeks....


We climbed flow reversal in very difficult conditions probably 3 weeks ago... probably WI6 or more like m7 with rock gear the entire way (we only had 2 screws) on delaminated ice. It was a go however because the rock gear was solid and a crucial fixed pin at the crux was there where I would have backed off otherwise.


The next day probably 3 weeks ago we climbed the Cosley Houston Route on Baker. Truely a magnificent climb. I would rate it in the very brittle conditions we found it (it was 12° F the entire day) WI5 at the pillar with much easier terrain.


Two weeks ago we climbed a fun line on the way out to the Flow Reversal area in Alpental. It was the obvious pillar coming off the summer trail on the way in (hiking in it would be on the right side of the valley.) It was very fun 2-3 pitch WI4 with a really fun "chockstone" that you have to go behind. We were excited to potentially try a new line to the left of Flow reversal but with the new snow you couldn't see it anymore. Other than that I made it to Canmore over the weekend so cant say about much else in WA. My hunch is that Lilloet is completely in except for maybe some of the difficult climbs like the Loose Lady or any hanging pillars.


Someone post on Lilloet soon!


Ps. how is the Rap wall forming up? Anything?



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did just now. It's nothing you probably don't already know from reading this thread...early in the season yet but for WA we are already getting out and climbing, that's pretty good! I am psyched to see Lillooet SO fat SO early, I remember years when going up there on the 15th of Dec meant scratching out at Marble for 2 days.


A little bird told me Drury was in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was up messing around near Strobach Mountain thursday (dec 13). The Watchtower area looks about like it does in the guidebook. I didn't make it up to where the other climbs were located, so I can't comment on conditions except to note that its cold enough for it and there was ice elsewhere. The road is passable to the bushwack if you have 4/AWD. I didn't, so my recon trip got cut a little short. Or long. or whatever....

Link to comment
Share on other sites


drury--last pitch unformed on wednesday 12/12.


smear, silver tongue and icicle junction areas--mixed bag.

careno crags--bag o' mixed.

snow creek wall--not much ice as seen from valley but turf might be ok.

left side of duty dome and peekaboo tower area--mixed.

lazy boy gully--thin.

rat creek climbs--thin.

hubba hubba and flows to left and right--thin but definitely climbable on 12/14.

chimney/fault about 200' left of hubba hubba--very nice easy/moderate (maybe a bit of filthy 5.8 in the summer) mixed climbing for 3 full pitches (the last one a bit contrived). pro to 4" and a few stubbies on 12/14.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiked Back into Alpental today


Found good climable ice at the Kiddie Cliff? or Wrap Wall?


The folks that were there said it was the Wrap Wall, but when I read the Wrap Wall Description in the guide book it did not sound correct.


The area fit the description of the Kiddie Cliffs

It was worth the hike. Deffinately need snow shoes or skis as a lot of new snow has fallen in the past 24 hours.


some pics are below


By the way if you can definatively identify it as the Kiddie Cliffs or Wrap Wall; I would be interested in knowing




Golden Retriever (Honey) mascot for the day toughed out the cold



Edited by FBCC
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's "Not Quite a Plum" and was climbed a few times last weekend as well. From the top tree (on the right) you can actually climb another pitch that is pretty fun continuing on mellow terrain above.


Kiddie Cliff is further down the valley along the winter trail, just before the winter trail enters the upper valley to Source Lake by a small cliff band.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Alex


We did not walk any further then this


A lot of Snow was falling and we were concerned with the Avalanche potential further up into the bowl.


Has anyone recently checked out the Hotline or WI 3+ to see if they are in?


(by the way)

By your description if the Kiddie Cliff are where I think they are, they are not in at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...