FBCC

I assume with the weather it is worth the drive. Have a newbe to take out and was wondering if it is in.

Experienced Ice climber from Washington looking to get out for day trips in the Vancouver area My job has been bringing me up to BC lately, but I do not know the area well or have any partners up here. Will be a belay slave to local who wants to show me around. Andy C

I can only imagine that Strobachs or White pass might have something let us know if you find anything I think Selkirk is got the right idea. "Both passes are closed again, with Snoqualmie down for at least 8 to 10 hrs of Avy control. Once again the forecast is "stay home and drink"

Sobo Tough one only becuase in general (like most folks) I feel ratings are guidelines at best that can be really subjective to the current conditions, length of a climb, quality of the Belay stance etc.. Again I know there is a whole grade scale for commitment etc... but all of those factor tend to get calculated into the leaders psyche to make the route feel harder or easier then it is rated. Of course angle and steepness of ice seem absolute, but I am sure you understand what I am saying. I do not feel any better or worse of myself if one day I have an easy lead on a 4 and another day get uncomforatable leading a 2+ because it is all subjective to my confidence/mood which is influenced by so many factors. That said I think the day we climbed Peekaboo I was not confident in ice to hold screws well. I did not like the top out as it was muddy with lots of big loose rocks (which I cleaned) so it felt more 3 3+ then just a pure 3 Another year it may be fat as hell with solid ice and be picked to death, so I might feel differently I am not trying to open up a can of worms for people in reference to rating; just telling you why on the day we were there I might stretch the rating just a little bit.

Thanks for clearing up the names with that info then Two Face was not going to be lead, at least not by me! too thin and wet. Peekaboo obviously is in. we did not identify Sniveling Gulley. there were a few patches of ice up high but none in that vacinity that touched down or looked like ice climbs, ugly mixed maybe but not ice. I did not take any pics of Drowning pool, but again regardless of the size of your balls it did not look safe to get on what little had formed up. Great access!

yeah there were other climbs in Sorry but only briefly reading the guide book I had a hard time identifying which climb was which. maybe you can from the pics below. There was plenty of snow so some lower angle stuff seemed covered The drowning pool stuff did not looked bonded to the rock well and it did not look like it would hold pro that well. Horsetail was good but 3/4 of the way up it was thin and hollow we all knocked through it, and heard ice falling down behind the falls. I purposly soloed that thin section as I did not want to be attached to a large chunk via a screw if a big section fell off. we climbed on something on the Great Wall that was nice but again the ice was really really airated so you really had to search for a good screw placement. view the pics below and maybe you can tell me the names for future reference

Nice Pics Very Jealous

Hi Sobo We took the detour to Chinook Pass based on Kevinos post Never been to the area It was a good time, easy access lots of stuff in Horsetail Falls Below:

Thanks for the tip Kevino I am already commited to drive with someone else, but if you are out there I am sure we will run into you somewhere.

Don't know about Rainier, but curious what else is still up I saw Kevins post that Fuggs and the rest of Vantage is falling so that is out for the weekend. Anybody got anything positive to add about what is still up and not in extreme avi danger?? Anyone been on Hubba Hubba? We're looking to head out Sunday, so if anyone finds anything on Saturday it would be much appreciated if you posted it. Thanks

Was anyone out this past weekend in Leavenworth? What were you on and was it worth it?

Hey Farrgo So you did head out there anyway. there were so many other climbs that I got to see, but did not have enough time to get on. I also heard that Joes Valley about 2 1/2 hours south is a great location as well. Its great that you got the chance to climb stairway what else did you get on while you were out there??

Trip: Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah - Great White Icicle Date: 1/24/2008 Trip Report: Got the chance to climb another classic in Utah Great White Icicle Approach: Head up Little Cottonwood Canyon Park about two miles up the canyon at the power plant on the south/right side of the road. Cross the foot bridge over the river follow the well beaten path, hike in is about 30 minutes or less. Guide book Stats: 650' WI3 amount of pitches vary I have read anywhere from 3-5 pitches. We did it in 3 pitches including some simul-climbing. Conditions on day of climb: Temps in the mid 20's. Ice was thin on the first pitch. We Soloed the first 3 pitches ranging from WI 3 to Steep Snow, Simul-climbing on a 70 meter rope. Top Pitches took long screws. Descent: walk off to the right Decend steep gully, great views at the top Some Pics Below Top 2 pitches visible from Trail Head: 5:30am Headlamp start, 1st pitch Cool Views of SLC lights and Canyon as the sky started to lighten up, top of 3rd pitch 4th pitch: 5th pitch: Looking down from the top of the 4th: if interested Other Pics of the climb are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Iceclimber39/TheGreatWhiteIcicleLittleCottonwoodCanyonUtah Climb Safe Andy

Trip: Utah, Provo Canyon - Stairway to Heaven - Provo Canyon Date: 1/22/2008 Trip Report: Just Got back from Salt Lake City thought I would share two great climbs we were lucky enough to get on. if you get the chance 'Stairway to Heaven' is a must and the 'Great White Icicle' was classic as well. Stairway to Heaven Approach: Continue into the canyon on Hwy 189 park at Nunn’s Park / Bridal Veil Falls Parking Area - About 4.5 miles up Provo Canyon. Park on the south side to approach the climbs. 20 minute hike from parking lot Guide book Stats: 900' WI5 5 standard pitches all full 60m rope lengths except P4 and I think P5 on the lower Pitches the lower apron/curtains are wide so various lines possible Conditions on the day climbed: Ice was Brittle temps in the single digits. Took long Screws fine. P1 was WI3+-4 P2 was WI4 P3 was WI5 P4 Start WI4 then WI3 P5 never saw it as a slow party was ahead of us choking the only touched down column so we bailed Belay and wrap station are bolted, bottom of 4th P has a solid tree Need double 60m ropes for the wraps hooked up with a great local climber Thanks Dallen! Classic Climb great views Below are a few pics over view of climb: First pitch: 3rd pitch: Looking down from top of 3rd: Warpping off second: If interested other pics of the climb can be found here http://picasaweb.google.com/Iceclimber39/StairwayToHeavenProvoCanyonUtah climb safe Andy

Trip: Ellensburg Washington - Umptanum falls Date: 1/19/2008 Trip Report: I just wanted to make sure to get this TR on the net due to the fact that, last week when I was looking for info or pics on this area I could not find anything of worth on the net, so here it is I took my neighbor out for his first time on ice and we deffinatley have another convert to ice. Umptanum is a great place to get introduced to the sport. Short approach, no avi danger, plenty of stray ice bulges to practice swinging etc. before tying in, and solid natural anchors for setting up a Top Rope. Trip Date: January 19th Location: Umptanum Falls Ellensburg WA. Approach: from Parking lot walk 20 minutes level - slightly down hill to top of falls Areas: Main Falls 30' WI2 - various lines possible /// Snow Fed Drip 35-40' WI3 - Various Lines Possible /// Various practice Ice Buldges on walk down to base of falls. Conditions on day of climb: Main Falls- not solid, a lot of water running behind it, access pool at bottom not frozen. /// Snow Fed Drip- picked out a bit 3-3+ with a thinner harder start toward the middle and left side of the Drip. Area photo overview below: Main Falls Below: My Neighbor John on the Snow Fed Drip across from the main falls Marla climbing the same Drip: picture taken looking down from the top of Umptanum falls Some of the ice bulges that can be found on the decent trail to the bottom of the falls if interested more pics of the area and day can be viewed at http://picasaweb.google.com/Iceclimber39/UmptanumFallsEllensburgWa -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Andy

Thanks Alex

Sorry, I have only been to a few climbs in the Leavenworth area so I don't know what every climb looks like, so I do not recognize what this climb is. what is this?

OK, So lets have it Has anyone climbed Drury? Oh' and while were at it how about an update on the status of the rest of Leavenworth? Wenatchee River Climbs like the the Drip etc..? Moutaineers Creek? Icicle Canyon? Snow Creek Wall? Icicle Buttress? the Rat Drainage? Hubba Hubba Area? Anyone know current conditions for any of these area or other specific climbs in Leavenworth? Your input would be greatly appreciated Thanks Andy

Trip: Clear Creek Canyon Ice Routes, Boulder/Golden Co. - Coors Light Date: 1/6/2008 Trip Report: Clear Creek Canyon Ice Colorado Trip Report

Trip: Boulder Colorado - Clear Creek Canyon Date: 1/6/2008 Trip Report: Clear Creek Canyon Ice Routes, Boulder/Golden Co area Ice Cragging 20 minute drive from Boulder Co or Golden Co 5 minute walk from the highway - highway 6 3 main flows -Beer Garten -Coors Light -Mickeys Big Mouth Both Mickeys were leadable and could be TR with a 60M rope Flows were fat enough for long screws but the temps were high and everything was wet and slushy so not sure what a screw would hold. Did not walk up to Beer Garten as it looked the wetest of the 3 and we did not know how the cross the creek to the other side Below are a few Pics the rest can be accessed at the Picassa Link at the bottom of the post Below 'The Beer Garten' Below 'Coors Light' lower section Below 'Coors Light' Upper Section Below 'Mickeys Big Mouth' Lower Section Tough to beat climbing 20 minutes from town with a 5 minute approach Other pics at at the Picassa Link below http://picasaweb.google.com/Iceclimber39/IceClimbingClearCreekCanyonCo Climb Safe Andy PS. Found a local partner in Boulder using Mountain Project. Nice guy worked out well and all the other local climbers were very hospitable. Gear Notes: see main message Approach Notes: see main message

Would love to go to Lillooet, but the kids and wife won't let me get away that long this week. Unless of course you are offering to drive me up there while I sleep on the way up and drive me back while I nap after our hard day of climbing Funny thing is; it wouldn't be the first time I drove six hours each way for a day climb

Wow Kevino What a difference a week has made in Vantage! Thanks for the update with the pics By The Way I just back tracked to your post in Partners have you check Umptanum Falls I know it is not that difficult but beggers can't be choosey. Andy

Lake Julius? are you hiking in or paying for a snowmobile shuttle?

No Kevino, we did not check out running gear death falls As you can see from the pics by time we got to Vantage the light was waning and on the drive over we had already commited ourselves to climbing Fugs with headlamps just so the day was not a total bust. As soon as we glanced a dry Fugs personally (my drive was broken). Nick, however was up for Dry Tooling but Jeff and I could not muster up the interest. We talked about rushing over to checkout Umptanum falls in Ellensburg but in the end resigned ourselves to getting a burger and driving home.

Update typed 12/24 Alpental on Saturday 12/22 at a distance the climbs in the front of the valley already were being cover by snow Jeff, Nick and I hiked back up the winter trail and crossed the creek to the summer trail side and took a looked at Stream direct, it had about 20' of climbable ice. We also glanced Chockstone Falls which looked like it might have the top third pitch in but got our butts out of there as the Avi potential was too high. A lot of snow already back there and even with Snow Shoes off trail travel was labor some. Same Day 12/22 We then headed for Vantage it was cold and snow had fallen but both Frenchmans and Fugs were not in at all. pure running water on Frenchmans and Fugs just looked dry. The book has Red Rain next to Frenchmans but we did not even see water there so one might assume it is dry. Stream Direct Frenchman Falls 'just Running water' Jeff and Nick in front of a Dry Fugs Falls Close up of Fugs Falls MERRY CHRISTMAS FOLKS