bumbass Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 ...need to recreate. the last two times I went to index this year, I was planning on climbing all four pitches of the recently cleaned japanese gardens. the first day we encountered a large group of (five) moderate climbers using the mid anchors on the first pitch TRing through the chains. when we asked if we could climb through, they said they "would be done soon." the second day we saw an amazingly slow aid climbing party, doing their best to drop all of their gear, on what would prove to be a 5 hour ascent of the first 35 meters. (note: not the first time (uber-slow) aid climbers have been spotted on this classic free route) so what's a hard free climber to do? I don't like japanese's mid anchors becuase it encourages beginers (usually one's that don't know how to share) to clog the route all day. aid climbers? I've climbed past them before, that doesn't make them any happier. japanese is a key route to accessing the plethora of hard, recently scrubbed and rebolted routes on the upper ltw, as well as 10% and sterm farmer, yet it is plagued with these obstructions.. who gets priority with a route? we're americans right? so we have the (climbing)god-given right to climb what we want when we want right? I suggest the following heirarchy for those wanting to climb a route that has been free climbed(in descending order): -hard climber who can climb route blind-folded(w/o shirt of course) -moderately hard climber (working on blind-fold trick) -standard free climber, working route (not on TR) -beginer climber -mosquito -gnat -annoying barking dog of hard climber did anybody notice aid climbers didn't make it onto the list? I can respect that crazy sh@t you guys do, but go do it on an aid route huh? leave the free routes to the free climbers... any thoughts on the list? Quote
Sol Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 the person who drops their shit at the base of the route get dibs and can climb it as long as they want, dumbass. Quote
high_on_rock Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 Heck of a list. Perhaps dick measuring should also be a factor. I could show up at noon, tell tales about mine being really long, then everyone should step aside. No sense having 10 people enjoy the rock that I alone could really enjoy! Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted May 6, 2007 Posted May 6, 2007 If they're TRing, talk nicely and politely to them and pass them. You'd probably only be slowing them down by ten minutes at the most. Quote
selkirk Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 This is America. You have the right to try and pass. When you do they have the right to tie your ass of to a piece of gear and watch you squirm. Of course then you have the right to drop coils or hexes on them. Quote
layton Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Gee, I wonder if this is the person who chopped the anchors Quote
Hendershot Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 I could be wrong, but it sounds like an anchor chopper just looking for acceptance from others to justify the chop. Quote
fenderfour Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 It was aided before it was freed. I think true FA style gets priority. Everyone stay out of my way as I nail up Davis Holland this weekend. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Ooops!!! I thought the thread topic said, "How to respect lady climbers". There's whole sections of unclimbed walls there just waiting for a hard climber to put up a first ascent. Why don't you go explore a little, bumbass? Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 What you do with an Armenian cucumber is your business. Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 you know what you little tools...he's got a frickin' point...there is such thing as a courtesy...if he and partner can bust through the first whole pitch in 25 to 30 minutes to get on with a day higher up and you KNOW that you are gonna be on the thing ALL DAY with your bumbly self and first time girlfriend get the fuck out of the way...Seriously, its just courtesy... And another thing...lead the route and pull your fucking line so other parties can have a chance... FUCKING MANNERS PEOPLE... Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 Ooops!!! I thought the thread topic said, "How to respect lady climbers". There's whole sections of unclimbed walls there just waiting for a hard climber to put up a first ascent. Why don't you go explore a little, bumbass? why don't you get bent scott??? Likewise there's a million other places to go have a clusterfuck... Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 I could be wrong, but it sounds like an anchor chopper just looking for acceptance from others to justify the chop. I could be wrong, bu you sound like a moron... Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 GGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRBITCH!!!!!!!!!!!! gotta go get my coffee... Quote
chucK Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 This seems like the major problem with the short Japanese Garden anchors. I doubt it's really an issue of degrading the wall by adding a midpoint anchor (as other have stated, many Index climbs would be problematic by this standard). The main issue is probably that these midpoint anchors turn the start of a classic hard free climb into a (relative) gumby magnet. I feel for the pain of bumbass, but I'm not quite sure what to do about it. People oughta get to climb something if they're there first. But it's also nice to be polite and not take over shit that other people want to do. Gang ropers are the scourge of crowded crags. They suck. They should not only acquiesce to people asking politely to climb through, they should offer to let anyone climb through who is eyeing the thing. Or better yet, just don't gang-rope and monopolize a climb for hours. As for Bumbass, he/she could have perhaps climbed Godzilla/City Park and traversed over to access the climbs above. It's not like Godzilla is ever bunged up. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 As in most human interaction, consideration is the key to smooth sailing. Quote
RuMR Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 well stated chuck...obviously, your medication is working as opposed to mine!! Quote
AlpineK Posted May 7, 2007 Posted May 7, 2007 I'm not against siege tactics on routes as long as you know the folks who want to blast through a route have the priority over you even if you were there first. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.