Jamin Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) Well, I am still determined to get a first winter ascent (FWA) of a peak. I am thinking about doing a certain peak in the hwy 2 area. Getting to the peak will involve 6.8 miles, 4400 vertical feet, and a class 3 river crossing all offtrail. I scouted out a ford of the river about a week ago. There were 3 main channels and 3 smaller channels. I crossed all but the last channel solo. I could have crossed the last channel (It was actually shallower than one of the channels that I crossed), but I had lost feeling in most of my toes. Hip waders would be extremely useful for this climb. The river should be no more than waist deep. When I crossed it, it was just above my knees. This will be a difficult but exciting trip. If anyone is interested in coming, let me know at j7jamin at yahoo.com . This is not a trip for people without extensive offtrail experience. Weather is supposed to be partly cloudy and clear. Edited December 28, 2006 by Jamin Quote
jmo Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 all that just getting to the peak? what's after that? Quote
Alasdair Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Given the current avalanche forecast I think attempts at first ascents are a great idea right now. I am sure the 10 feet of new snow wont be any hindrance to your plans what so ever. http://www.nwac.us/products/SABSEA Quote
brian_m Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Dude... enough with the huge buildup of these FWA's. Just put out a request for a partner for an alpine trip. If you get something good... great. Post a TR and send the submission to Alpinist. If not, better luck next time. Heed Alasdair's advice... I have been out the past few days, the snow is super unstable! Just a warning. Have fun with the river crossings! Think I'll go do some climbing instead. Leave the kayak in the garage until spring. Quote
pope Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 ...Hip waders would be extremely useful for this climb. ... For what, the bullshit? Just kidding. Have fun. Quote
kurthicks Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Jamin--I rarely tell people that they are in over their heads, since getting schooled and "epicing" are important parts of the learning curve, but... take the advice you are receiving in this (and other) threads and reconsider your plans. Quote
DirtyHarry Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Don't listen to these haters, dude. Go for it. Quote
cynicalwoodsman Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Got my SUV, my GPS unit, 'n my cell phone. I'm ready! Should I buy any of those clippy things? Quote
pink Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 setting yourself up for failure. don't you have a usual partner. Quote
Bug Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Watch out for avy slopes and go out and epic dude. Maybe you will not get the first ascent but if you are careful you will have a great adventure. Quote
Jamin Posted December 28, 2006 Author Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) Come on guys the elevation of this peak is barely 5000 feet. Once I get across the river the terrain is merely class 3. Lots of people can do this kind of gain in a day. It will be a fun climb, but it would be better if we had a few other guys to help break trail. I already have one other guy who is coming with me. I estimate that the peak can be done in six hours once the river is crossed. I know of only two people who have ever been in that area. One of them took 6 hours solo to get to the lake that is .25 miles south of the peak. I think that it is doable in a day. Are you guys so fearful that you are not going to come with me. Moderate avalanche danger is a go. You would rarely get in the backcountry during winter if you were not willing to go in moderate avalanche danger. This peak is only 5000 feet high. If conditions are bad, an alternate destination will be chosen. However, the weather is supposed to be great. The only reason why this peak hasn't been done already in the winter is because it is inconspicous and because of the river. Edited December 28, 2006 by Jamin Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 What kind of Slippery adventure are you heading for? Is it a Slab climb?? Quote
brian_m Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Let me get this straight... You are planning to bushwack through the forest, cross 3 freezing cold rivers, brave the avy conditions and winter weather... all to hike a 3rd class route on a 5000ft +/- satellite peak just because it hasn't been done in the winter? As much fun as it sounds... Even though I do have the day off... Thanks for the invite but I think I'll go climbing. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Hey Brian, I did this on a peak near Stevens Pass last winter and I'm wondering if this is the same peak Jamin is headed for. Quote
ericb Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Let me get this straight... You are planning to bushwack through the forest, cross 3 freezing cold rivers, brave the avy conditions and winter weather... all to hike a 3rd class route on a 5000ft +/- satellite peak just because it hasn't been done in the winter? As much fun as it sounds... Even though I do have the day off... Thanks for the invite but I think I'll go climbing. perhaps the reason it has no known winter ascents is because the folks that climbed it didn't see fit to mention it. I didn't submit a TR this summer when I took my wife up Das Toof either. Quote
spotly Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 perhaps the reason it has no known winter ascents is because the folks that climbed it didn't see fit to mention it. I didn't submit a TR this summer when I took my wife up Das Toof either. I did. There's been others before me??? Quote
brian_m Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Yeah... that is kind of what I was getting at with my comment... Has Mt. Si been climbed during the winter... cause I was thinking about doing that. I hear there is some sick 3rd class... maybe up to 4th class scrambling to get to the top of the "haystack"... think I'll try a FWA on that one! Look for the TR soon. Quote
Jamin Posted December 28, 2006 Author Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) Mount Si has been done in the winter a million times. This peak is remote. Talk about wilderness. I am not exactly sure that it is not a class 5 peak. I hope not, because I am not interested in doing frozen class 5 in the middle of winter. I am attatching a picture of the west face. The east face should be a walkup, but it may not be. I do not know the guy who did the FA in 1992. Come on guys, stop attacking my idiocy, and say you want to come along. It will be some awesome climb. Edited December 28, 2006 by Jamin Quote
DirtyHarry Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Looks uber sick, bro. Are you bringing your dog? Quote
Jamin Posted December 28, 2006 Author Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) If you guys don't think it will very much of a challenge for you, why don't you come along and prove what a wimpy guy I am. Edited December 28, 2006 by Jamin Quote
tazz Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) some light reading for you folks little background more there is more where that came from. Enjoy. It is not all about who has the biggest dick (well to you and some others it may be)Jamin. Like I said it is cool if you want to go at this alone or another who knows what they are getting into with you. But asking strangers to partner up On a FWA that you "don't even know if it is class 5", with 14m rt(or is it 7 rt?) on Snow shoes, river crossing, avy danger, in one day is silly. More power to ya! Edited December 29, 2006 by tazz Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Try to keep your crampons away from your hands this time. :tup: Quote
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