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Everything posted by Jamin

  1. My dear friends and brothers of the rope. I am moving to Montana in March, and I have two brand new guidebooks for sale/ trade. They are Rock Climbs of Central Washington and Tieton River Rocks. These books sell for 26.95 and 14.95 new, but I would be willing to sell them for a good bit less. I am easygoing and willing to make a deal for somebody who is willing to use them. These books have never been used Sincerely, Jamin Smitchger 509-979-2336 3410 Emerald Downs Ln. Pasco, WA
  2. Ingalls laps, x38, Toof...

    I am looking to get out this Saturday. Let me know if you are interested. 509-979-2336.
  3. Camp Muir this weekend - 5/28 or 5/29

    I would be interested in trying to get to muir this Saturday. Call me at 509-979-2336 if you are still interested. About me, I have two successful summits of Rainier, and I really love hiking and climbing stuff. Lately I haven't been able to get out too much due to work, but this would be a good fun trip.
  4. Hey everybody, I am looking to go do some climbing of some mountain or some rock or whatnot. I am thinking maybe Sunday afternoon- Monday or Just Monday or Saturday. I like climbing, but I haven't been getting out very much lately so I am looking to get out this weekend. Give me a call at 509-979-2336. Sincerely, Jamin
  5. Presidents' Day Weekend

    Hey, I would be interested in getting out for a climb this president's day weekend. I also haven't been really getting out alot, but I am looking to go have some fun. Anyways, my e-mail is j7jamin at yahoo.com. Shoot me an e-mail or call me at 509-979-2336.
  6. I recently purchased a petzl rocpeck drill. Does anybody know what size drill bit to use with it? What would be the best size bit for 3/8 in. bolts. I guess you guys can really tell now that I am a newbie at sport climbing. What is the cheapest place to get some cheap climbing bolts and hangers.
  7. So is there any decent ice in Alpental where there is no risk from getting buried in a flowing snowfield. It wouldn't have to be too tall or anything.
  8. A friend of mine asked this question after he had taken a 12 foot whipper. I have heard that 10 falls of 4 feet or greater will completely stretch out the core of the rope, but I am not really sure.
  9. How many lead falls can a rope take?

    Diameter: 10.5 mm Grams Per Meter: 68 Impact Force: 8.0 kN UIAA Falls Held: 11 Static Elongation: 7.2% Dynamic Elongation: 31.8% Sheath Slippage: 0 mm It looks like my rope held 11 falls with an impact force of about 1800 lbs. In other words, ropes are good for many falls of decent (10-15 ft) distances for about 5 years. Anyone concur? Billcoe, was that guy who was rappelling even using a climbing rope correctly. It sounds like that guy had been abusing his climbing rope for ten years by storing it near leaky batteries and hacking it in half in numerous places.
  10. Placing bolts

    Ok, so let's say that you are in the middle of a multi-pitch rappel and you rappel down to a ledge. Once you get to the ledge, you find out that there are absolutely no rappel anchors down there and nowhere to place pro. Therefore you cannot descend to the bottom of the mountain. Because you are solo climbing, you cannot climb back up to the top of the mountain and go down the easy route. You are stuck. Is there a lightweight way to place bolts so I can ensure that this situation does not happen.
  11. Placing bolts

    I would be up for that.
  12. Placing bolts

    Bug, have you ever climbed to the top of West Trapper. My brother and I tried to climb that one this summer. We were running late and I climbed the wrong spire. The real summit spire was about 5-10 feet higher, and it looked like the pro would have been shoddy. Any info about that climb would be appreciated.
  13. Placing bolts

    Hey, hindsight is always 20 20. So let me guess, none of you guys have ever done something dumb on a climb.
  14. Placing bolts

    I thought about it, but I decided to rap. Mucho exposure.
  15. Placing bolts

    The guy who posted on summitpost did not rappel down the route. I always check out summitpost before I climb mountains. Unfortunately, for many mountains route information is still limited. There was no information at all for where I went this weekend. I mainly do alpine climbing on mountains that are not extremely popular.
  16. Trip: Weeping Wall (Bluewood Ice) - Date: 1/13/2007 Trip Report: The weeping wall is located about 17 miles or so from Dayton. I was tired of the thin, unsafe ice around Pullman so I made the drive. The wall is in pretty good shape although it is a good bit drippy. The ten degree lows that we have been experiencing should take care of that in about a week. I was unable to do any completely vertical ice because I did not have a partner. I did do about 20 feet of a nice wall to the right of the freestanding pillars. There are a bunch of large stalactites that will probably become columns later. I used prusiks to protect the climb after toproping. They worked very well when I fell. However, I was unable to finish the entire pitch because it was neccessary to use both hands to slide the prusik up the rope, which was difficult because the prusik often froze to the rope and because the wall was completely vertical at the top. I can sort of see now why prusiks are not used to climb solo. You really cannot do anything more than fourth class with them as pro. Approach Notes: From Dayton, take 4th street and drive about 17 miles along the North Fork Touchet after you leave Dayton. The ice is to your left. It is difficult to see so keep a lookout for it.
  17. Placing bolts

    Thank you for the info guys. I appreciate it. I just want to be safe so I don't get in that position again. Billcoe, it seems like there have probably been quite a few people who have been in the situation that you described.
  18. Placing bolts

    I jumped in a crevasse on Rainier this May. I prussiked out just fine. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=20&Number=634836&Searchpage=4&Main=47948&Words=Jamin&topic=0&Search=true#Post634836 So any recommendations on where to get a light hand drill.
  19. Placing bolts

    By the way, I have no problem with rapping off a stopper if neccesary
  20. Placing bolts

    I solo climbed the Twin Imps (9030 feet)(5.1) in the Seven Devil Mountains. I was rappelling down from the climb, and I realized that I did not have enough rope to reach the bottom. At this point I was midway down the rappel, and 4 offtrail miles away from civilization. The face in front of me had not place to put any pro. I locked down the rappel and climbed back up to the ridge with a couple 5.8 moves. I had some prusik material in my pack, but it would have been difficult to get. That peak has been climbed by about 11 people since 1963, and it is not in any guidebook. Is there a place to get an inexpensive drill kit somewhere that I can hang off my harness. I sort of want to be able to rappel anything and not to have to choose my descent routes. In this case, the descent route was not specified dmuja, and I didn't see any rappel anchors.
  21. Opinions on buying used gear (ebay)

    Ok, maybe I am wrong, but I have heard that aluminum does not form microcracks. I have also heard that a biner was dropped off el cap and it broke at full strength. Am I wrong?
  22. Placing bolts

    Well, it sort of happened on my last climb, which has been climbed by about 11 people since the FA in 1963.
  23. Placing bolts

    I may not have any first ascents, but I have been on a few climbs that don't have explicit intructions for rapelling. Sheesh, don't you want to go do some FA's sometime. Well, yeah. I guess that is generally the case. Do you know a cheap place to get this gear? I am a poor, starving college student.
  24. what can i do solo

    I have soloed many mountains that required ice axe and crampons. Don't leave them behind, but do learn how to use them. Glaciers are not advisable solo.