Jump to content

tazz

Members
  • Content count

    289
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tazz

  1. Trip: Buck/ Fortress HighTraverse 7/3-7/6 - what ever worked Date: 7/3/2009 Trip Report: Two years ago I tried for Buck solo, This is how it turned out. I have had this obsession every since. This time I planned 2 months in advance and asked some of my favorite folks to join me. My plan was to climb Buck and then traverse cross country to fortress and climb it. Now these folks are all crazy fast peak baggers and Bulgers list tickers. The area was perfect for folks to tag many peaks. I thought it was great that the “energizer bunnies” could have their list ticking fun! I am not much of a list ticker and have no problem parking my ass from 5pm to dark. They can’t sit for that long so they did what peaks they all could. The trip planning was working out perfect till I fucked it up! I was woken up by a vibrating phone. 7:45am!!!! Me, “Good morning Yana.... OH FUCK!!!” ....repeat for about 50 xs! I was supposed to pick up carla at 5 am !!! Shit, fuck, damn!! WTF???!!!??? I just came back from Shuksan and had not caught up on rest. My phone was unfortunately on vibrate. I slept right through the phone alarm and calls from my partners. What an idiot I am!! The only thing I could do at that point was tell them I would meet them at camp that evening. Started out at the th at 12: 15. Same timing as the last trip. I think Buck wanted me to do the entire shwack solo again! I rocked the bushwhack between the crossing and the ridge. Then laterally walked right up to the exit path into the basin. I think it took a total of 2.5 hrs from the crossing of Buck creek to the traverse across the basin. A walk in the park!! ;-) My group ran in to these guys(good climb guys! I was jealous) It seems I was the only one who didn't have an issue with the bushwhack... Although, I now cannot shave my legs due to the wounds and abrasions I have acquired. I may have lost a quart of blood on the bushwhack!! The route plan was to climb under the east buttress of Berge. When I finally caught them they had changed the plans and camp location. This would affect the rest of the trip. I didn’t care as long as they let me know what was up. We had radios for better communication. I was trying to get info from the folks in the lead. I got no response. I was ticked about the communication, or the lack there of. It was great up to this point. I was bonking and needed to know what folks planned on. I was told they would go up to a knob and then call me. They didn’t, they kept going and I had no idea what was going on...???!!??? I got a bit ticked about the communication but It was all cool and we all ended up in an incredible camp! [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/3701361914_50a5703a43.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3226/3701362184_90f4009cd2.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3455/3701362362_725f970bfd.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2520/3700554107_d43366cb0e.jpg[/img] The plans for Buck obviously changed due to camp location. Longer and harder but worth it! From high pass we descended, then back up the snow/pass of “doom!” Then drop down to Lewis basin then back up Buck. Then repeat the return trip. The crux of the day was a steep snow pass. We chose to climb the less steep part but it had bad runout. The other steeper section created by a cornice had good runout but DAMN steep!!! [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2449/3700555353_a9d667de8e.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/3700555189_367b6581ef.jpg[/img] This is where we saw the finger impressions in the snow from the two Berge climbers. He must of had a FAST ride down! weeeeeeee.......! We then picked and our way down to Lewis basin which is amazing!! [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2638/3700556441_9554e21437.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/3701365738_0a3bd46709.jpg[/img] Then it was time to finish Buck! 2500' later and fun C3 scrambling I was at the top! Whoo hoo! I gotcha Buck! [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3644/3700556893_e0606661d7.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3456/3701365178_2b34108ec5.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3497/3700558419_3b17f7a627.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2567/3701367208_62040da5d4.jpg[/img] That’s all I cared about and so the rest of the trip was just to be with the folks I love and the mountains I love! The summit is very airy!! Yummy!! Now it was time to reverse the trip back to camp. Folks headed up Berge and I kept going. Took a break at the pass waiting for folks. It was a quick summit for them. Time to descend the snow slope of DOOM!! I down climbed to the rock. Then 3 of us glissaded the slope. WEEEEEEE!!!...Fun!! That was FAST steep glissade! From there folks wanted to do point sumpin sumpin...summit.I wanted my advil and whiskey and no more pain! I enjoyed my time off and took pics of them bagging peaks with no name! ;-) [img:center]http://http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3700560991_9aa83aac19.jpg[/img] I do have to say that Franklin hit 12 summits this weekend! MattB, hit at least 10. The others hit about 6-7 peaks. I lost track. Franklin took off in one direction and matt the other. It was like watching some weird race! [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/3700561239_9d7e44a70f.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3528/3700561547_85c797223c.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2480/3700561993_a8d8bf7744.jpg[/img] It was time to move on to Fortress. It was a great traverse with some steep snow traverses with crappy run out. [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2573/3700695077_cf2e1f6ed3.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2656/3701503208_c977dc6bd7.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3535/3700695401_332fa3b8f8.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2654/3700696175_8d5e7c7d4a.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/3701504406_15e3711b73.jpg[/img] The plan was to get to camp and then drop packs and climb Fortress. This was not going to happen for me. I was hurting on this day. I was in so much pain there was no way I was even going to try . I needed rest for my body. Baker attempt, then two days later Shuksan and then 24 hrs later I am thrashing my way up to Buck. My body was on strike and wanted rest! The others scrambled up Helmet Butte as I rested and wandered around the area and enjoyed the views. [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2643/3700695643_27c8d74347.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2526/3700695923_e62280b27d.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2625/3701504798_678c835f52.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/3701505020_f5e0baf6b1.jpg[/img] We could see the weather changing and hoped it would hold for our last day to get up Fortress. Three folks headed out after Helmet Butte and the rest of us set up camp. We walked up Flower Dome for a quick view of Glacier. By this time the weather was defiantly coming in. We woke to crappy fog and clouds and called it a trip. The 9 miles back out was a death march with 4-5 HUGE avi paths and debris to weave/thrash through. Lots of work to be done up in there!! All in all it was a great trip and I got Buck! That’s all that counts for me.... :-) 24000' of gain in 7 days has my body screaming at a me! Trying to tell it that it is good for it is not working...hah! This trip meant a lot to me. Thank you to the great folks who joined the fun with me. Gear Notes: helmets for those pesky rocks falling from slopes ice axe crampons (mainly used for steep slick heather slopes) Approach Notes: Bushwhack and try not to bleed!
  2. Want to summit Mt. Hood or Mt. Adams.. Questions

    The second photo is of Punch Bowl Falls on the Eagle creek trail. Just up the trail from Punch bowl is tunnel falls. You hike through a tunnel under the falls. 12 + miles rt.
  3. Utah climbers?

    That pic is the BOMB! love it!
  4. Rock Shoe Naming Contest

    climb X "spray"
  5. Enchantments permit q's

    couple of my friends went up there last year and wrote a good report that may help ya. the mole
  6. Ahh...I was wondering where your awesome trs had gone too. I have been waiting for something more local and repetitive. Not to my surprise you bring us (some what) new greatness again. ;-) Thanks. I wish the snow was better for ya.
  7. Hood Pics

    Some really nice images above to choose from. Here are a few of mine. feb 2006 April 2006 Feb 2006 Dec 2006 Feb 2006
  8. Four Loko!

    ok my links suck and I am clueless how to make them work. I guess too much loko...heh
  9. Four Loko!

    Carla is evil klenke! Evil I say! I never touched that evil eye crap though. But she ever so cleverly forced me to drink this stuff. It taste like shit but oh it works so well. hahaha. ;-) first it was Joose...blahhhh then the LOKO...ruhh rohhh [img:left] [/img] carla is EVIL...;-)
  10. Where has summer gone?

    I found summer! Its East! I tell ya...go East!!
  11. Cragging in LW

    I know this is a crap shoot but what the hey figured i would try. I am going to be in Leavenworth this weekend. Would love to hook up with some folks who know the ropes (so to speak ;-))in the crags there. I have only been a couple of times. I do not lead (yet) but can follow up to ...5-7-5.8 if my shoulder (torn rotator cuffs)is being good. If not too pumpy then maybe 5.9. Depends..sorry. Wish i was back at 5.10 but injuries SUCK!! I just want to climb and have fun.I need to climb. I will treat with dinner, laughs and lots of beer! Have a great weekend folks...winter is breathing down our necks!
  12. Cragging in LW

    Partners found! have a great weekend folks!!
  13. I have heard of most peaks but this one if a new one for me. Great area and looks like a fun peak. I know the feeling watching our young ones following in our foot steps. My boy has been hiking with me since he was 2 month old. He is now 7 and done several small peaks and tons of hikes and camping. He loves it! Too much fun! great report. thanks!
  14. Where has summer gone?

    flushed down the toilet with TONS of work...:-(
  15. hmmm... that's why "rookieness's" climb the DC (or emmonds)...they are not equipped for more difficult routes yet. I bet next year you will be more experienced and equipped. ;-)
  16. Mt. Buckner

    Its all good Genepires.
  17. Mt. Buckner

    Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat?????? Who's panties are in a wad? Looks like yours are for some reason. ?? I am going by his other posts and questions not just this one. No wad here. I am just trying to help them have a good fun experience according to what he has been asking. yes Buckner is a "walk" for YOU and many climbers here. It may not be for him/them. I gave him some links to decide on his own. Excuse me for posting and trying to help someone out. Have a wonderful weekend!
  18. Mt. Buckner

    Also, you keep asking about fishing. Go to this site and post your questions. The wealth of info about fishy lakes, hikes with C3 scrambles. http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/index.php?sid=caccd58eb27241ca9b625ac2622f137e Also keep in mind. NCNP has strict rules about where you can fish, camp and have fires. http://www.nps.gov/noca/
  19. Mt. Buckner

    Yes easy summit block for the experienced NC climbers from CC.com. ;-) Not so much for someone not from WA looking for a "hike" with a fun scramble It is the getting there that can get you into a heap of trouble. You will need ice axe and crampons and KNOW how to use them. Route finding will slow you down A LOT. Here are some reports from the peak. This is a climb of the NF with the descent of the SW face. http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15135&highlight=buckner SWF http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7976933&highlight=buckner another SWF http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/637576/Time-To-Buck-Up-For-Buckner-Mountain.html IMO The only "EASY" peak in that area is Sahale.
  20. Mt. Buckner

    Buckner is not a hike. It is heavy in route finding and most bring climbing gear and use it.
  21. Please recommend a hike

    You could win the lottery for permits @ the enchantments but that is a crap shoot. Yes it is amazing there but your best bet would to be go north. Skip St Helens! Drive strait to the North Cascades. Best "bang for the buck". Cascade pass/ sahale/ hidden lakes lookout/ yellow aster butte (day hike)/Thornton peak (day hike) Sourdough mountain to elephant butte/N twin sister (great C3 scramble)/Black peak!!! too many to list, i could go on and on. You will not regret skipping out on the south. Go north and you will not regret it. The only regret you will have is not having MORE time! Oh and another one could be...Tuck and robin lakes in the alpine lakes wilderness. Granite peak and trico are both access fro there. Or a two day climb of Mount Daniel in the alpine lakes region. I could go on and on...I will stop typing now! Good luck choosing and have fun!!!
  22. [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 5/1/2010

    Dude you suck! leave me hanging like that...WTF!?! ;-P glad all is ok. i hope you will enlighten us to the epic parts...;-P
  23. [TR] Alpine Lakes - Outer Space 4/25/2010

    Hey BD, I hear you drove all the sleeping babies home. Pays to have that long haul experience huh? late night heh? Nice report, pics and trip guys!
  24. Not funny article but a funny picture...

    ummmm, not dude...more like a dudette. Get it right... I Am relaxed...very relaxed, feelin good right about now. ;-). I know the first post was not harmless and pointing to a mistake made by the press. The second post was ignorant. So, I commented to help the ignorance. NO i did nothing to take it to spray. Just informed you the you are clueless to the facts. Sorry the facts make you think it is spray. point made....
×