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cluck

3 Lost on Mount Hood

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All,

 

As a friend of Kelly James', the climber in the cave, I want to thank everyone for the positive vibes and prayers. I'm a semi-retired climber now, but over the past 20 years have climbed with Kelly (mostly rock, some snow/ice) from Texas to Yosemite to Pacific NW to New Hampshire so I know his abilities well. We are planning a rock climbing trip to New Mexico in the spring.

 

I also know Brian Hall, one of the other two, through Kelly, but have never climbed with him.

 

Kelly and Brian are very well-experienced and well equipped and level headed. They have summited Denali, Aconcagua, Huascuran, Rainier (14 times for Kelly), including Liberty Ridge this summer. They spend time regularly in Ouray ice-climbing.

 

Kelly has an iron constitution and is one of the best natural athletes I've ever met. He is also a very spiritual person, so I think his faith is probably helping him right now. I cannot think of anyone more likely to come thru this than Kelly.

 

Keep thinking good thoughts...

 

 

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Hate to say it, but it was foolhardy for this group to attempt the route in light of the poor weather forecast. Now the group is responsible for exposing their many rescuers to serious avy hazards and other dangers. I hope everyone makes it off the mountain in good condition, though.

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I'm sure they must have dug themselves a snow cave. Well equipped and fit climbers can hold out for a long time in a snow cave.

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Climbed the Mt Assiniboine NF with Nikko last summer. He is a strong and determined climber. I send my hopes to him and his family.

 

 

Edited by The Hoy

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DH - probably a bit of a presumptuous statement given nobody knows what happened up there. Sounds like they were planning on being down Friday/Saturday - before the weather turned, and someone got hurt...hence the call from an injured climber in a snow-cave on Sunday. Probably should stick to your sheep until more is known.

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DH, being that you are not from around here, you wouldn't have known that the weather was stellar last week in oregon when they left, that the forecast was not going to turn bad until mid-late Saturday, after their set time to return. Are you telling me that you don't go out to climb if bad weather is expected several days after your expected return time? Or do you always believe what a weather forecast tells you? if so, then I guess you don't get out much. Too bad, because you are missing out.... :rolleyes:

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Can we please save the speculation, spray and banter until we know what happened up there and get everyone back safe?

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Can we please save the speculation, spray and banter until we know what happened up there and get everyone back safe?

 

Ya.

 

We have another thread for speculation, spray, and banter here.

 

Thanks.

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Man - just heard about this on NPR out here in Boston and had a bad feeling that I'd know, or know of, some of the folks on the Mountain.

 

After learning more about the skill, experience, and character that these guys have on their side, I'm still very hopeful that they'll make it out of this okay. I hope that this knowledge can inspire the same kind of sentiments amongst the friends, families, and rescue crews. My thoughts are with everyone that has a stake in this thing - especially the three on the mountain. Just keep fighting until the weather clears, guys.

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Just was up at Bachelor making some turns and the wind was cranking early on this AM :( but by the time I left things started to calm down and burn off :tup:

 

Best of luck to the PMR/Cragrat searches, be safe.

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It is supposed to be generaly clearing slightly through the day. A little visibility will make all the difference in the world for all the folks involved. In a white out it'd be like a wild goose chase hunting the whole mountain for a couple of snowcaves.

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Yes, the press is watching us. cc.com is a great climbers community and even though we can't all get out there on the mountain to help, it good to know that we are all praying for these guys. Great thing is I think that some of our discussions has helped stir up info that might aid in the search. DonnV was able to provide some. Good job!

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I've spoken to Jerry Cooke a few times about ice climbing in the Adirondacks, but never met him. From his Liberty Ridge trip report, it seems he met Kelly James and Brian Hall on the route this past June. So this is likely the first time the three have climbed together. In addition to Liberty Ridge, he has apparently climbed the Emmons route, Baker (Easton), Shuksan (Sulphide), Athabasca, and done a guided trip with Barry Blanchard on Assiniboine.

 

Hope and prayers for everyone's safe return.

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A news article I read gave the impression they set out Friday. Guess that wasn't the case.

 

I'm sure they will all make it out safe!

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I was a bit hesitant to release this information until today it occurred to me that the guy who asked me for beta for the NF a few months ago might be a missing climber from Brooklyn. I apologize in advance, if "Fuggedaboudit" is someone else.

These are two of his three PMs, the most relevant to this story. My impression was that they are going to climb the NF, not the Eliot HW.

 

From my own experience, there are no crevasses in the left and right gully of the NF. If the guy is called from the cave (and it is presumed, he is high on the route), it must be the Eliot HW, which has 2 deep bergshrund - good hiding place.

 

I hope this information is helpful.

 

 

PM1

Fuggedaboudit

journeyman

 

 

Registered: 05/16/04

Posts: 89

Loc: Brooklyn Himals Hello Oleg!

 

I am going to do the NF early December this year. I will be leading all the pitches. From the TR you posted looks like you did most of the steeper leads so let me ask you about my rack. I am comfortable leading multipitch WI4. For the ice I was going to bring 2 10cm screws, 4 16cm screws and 1 19cm screw for anchors and for Abalokovs. I am also bringing 2 screamers for use with the 10cm screws.

 

As for rock protection thinking about 4 pitons and 5-6 of the larger size nuts. I was also thinking of bringing a #1 and #2 camalot.

 

What do you think about the rack, especially the camalots? From your TR it doesnt sound like you brought any rock protection at all. Did you guys miss it at all?

 

Last question- how long was the approach from cloudcap parking lot to the bergshrund?

 

Thanks in advance!

_________________________

I hate when that happens . . .

 

Fuggedaboudit

journeyman

 

PM2

Registered: 05/16/04

Posts: 89

Loc: Brooklyn Himals Thank you very much, I really appreciate it. We werent sure about how long the approach was, and I hate carrying stuff that never comes out of the pack. I'll bring 2-3 pitons just in case and leave the rest. Already planned on 2 pickets.

 

I'll post a TR when its over!

 

_________________________

I hate when that happens . . .

 

 

 

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DonnV said he saw them and had spoken to them Thurday afternoon at the TJA. So that gives a pretty good indication that they stuck to their plans of going up Friday. I read on most of the news reports that they headed out Wednesday. But I think that they were just going as far as the TJA. Then leaving early Friday Morning for one of the NF gullies.

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The Oregonian reports searchers combing the ZigZag basin and heading out from Parardise. Quite odd. If the injured climber is on the opposite side of the mountain I would imagine they should focus searching for the other two in the trees around Polallie Creek or further north (like the Coe).

 

It's easy to speculate from an armchair - but why would you continue a climb-over when your buddy is injured in a snow cave near the Elliot?

 

If Fuggedaboudit is on the mtn - I hope the DAS Parka Bivvy system is doing him well.

 

Best of luck to them and the rescuers. Help is on the way guys.

Edited by cartomat

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The Oregonian reports searchers combing the ZigZag basin and heading out from Parardise. Quite odd.

 

Seems a reasonable place to search, since these guys had never been on Hood, and visibility sucked. If they DID go over the top, it's easy to imagine them following the fall line down...

Edited by gslater

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I think that they were trying have searchers check out all possible areas. The news probably didn't mention every location that searches were being held. I know that they wanted to check out the SW side just in case the climbers decided that South side would be an easier way off the mountain. With the line of fall, and in white out conditions could have those guys wondering into the Zig zag area.

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why would you continue a climb-over when your buddy is injured in a snow cave near the Elliot?

 

because there's no civilization on the north side. no phones. no people to help. i am confused by the apparent proximity of the cave to the summit and yet they went down the cooper spur? the south side would have made far more sense, and if they were already in whiteout, then zig-zag might well be where they ended up

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It's easy to speculate from an armchair - but why would you continue a climb-over when your buddy is injured in a snow cave near the Elliot?

 

also speculation - but my impression is that the other two were possibly capable of still topping out...in which case, the quickest way to reach assistance would be to drop down to Timberline. In the conditions we've had, it would be easy to imagine them falling prey to the same south side disorientation problems we've all seen happen before...following the fall line down the Zig Zag.

 

guesswork - sorry if inappropriate here. Wishing these guys the best. keep holding on guys...

 

incidentally, it's nice to see the support and good vibes being sent out from here - in case any of us/I ever end up in a bind like this, it's always comforting to know there's a lot of folks pulling for ya...

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HR County Sheriff said in the 1PM news conference today that they had indeed topped out. Not sure what the basis was for that claim, unless it was mentioned in the cell phone call.

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