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Everything posted by cartomat

  1. Mt. Hood Conditions

    I was gazing fondly up at Mt Hood post alpineglow this evening, noticing how far North the sun must be to create those interesting shadows when I saw a large avalanche on the Reid that started a few hundred feet above the saddle. I couldn't believe my eyes but I saw it like a large dark stain flow down. It looked like quite a bit of debris. I wish I had time to check it out tomorrow and I hope no one's up there.
  2. Was it the yellow tri-cam? I call the mountain booty!
  3. Garbage on the Eliot

    I am glad you pulled that rock outta there. Every time I go up the Elliot I see lots of rocks... ...too many in my opinion.
  4. Pearly Gates vs. Old Chute on Mount Hood southside

    After replacing several pairs of shell pants from butt-sliding down from triangle morain, I crafted a pair of "summit skis" just for SouthSide climbs. I took an old pair of 80cm ballet skis and mounted an old pair of Rainey SuperLoops on them. I have a pair of (hybrid) leather mountaineering boots that have crampon notches which fit in the bindings and I can schuss down the slopes doing bastardized tele-turns. The whole set-up only weighs a couple of pounds so carrying them isn't a hassle if conditions warrant.
  5. Portland Gear Shops?

    Richard and the gang at Oregon Mountain Community rock. They are definately the kindest specialty store around and they have treated me very well over the past 15 years that I have shopped there. Not too sure what John was griping about them being stingy. When I buy stuff at other stores I don't expect them to give me a discount just b/c I am climber...
  6. Here we go again

    I'll bet if they had an MLU, they would've pulled the plug and waited and waited and waited and then finally frooze to death. Now that would be an interesting headline --->MLU kills climbing group!
  7. Mark Twight wips Hollywood into shape

    Sounds like a cool flick, although it doesn't look like much climbing is involved. Battle of Thermopalae
  8. The Grundle

    I think the question concerns femunda cheese on your mulablonda? I was taught to never eat brown snow...
  9. [TR] Mt Hood - Castle Crags 12/19/2006

    Is there going to be a pay-per-view?
  10. Liberty Ridge- Ipsut approach 4/25 conditions

    ...and next year it is... Truly sad.
  11. MT Hood Continued

    Sherrif Wampler also mentioned finding a rope cut with a knife...
  12. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    The Oregonian is reporting "Hood River County Sheriff Joe Wampler says searchers fear that the other two climbers might have fallen. Searchers focus on Eliot Glacier and an area just below the Newton Clark Glacier know as “The Gullies” by air." By "the Gullies" do you think they mean below the Black Spider - or are "the gullies" right above the spider? I don't think i recall an area known as "the gullies." Probably more disinformation - they are most likely taking about the NF chutes above the Elliot NOT Newton Clark.
  13. Bourbon

    Woodford Reserve - Damn fine bourbon, although Booker's is the best you can buy.
  14. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    There it is! If those three only they took the advice of a racoon-eatin' guy with some military gear (I'll bet he even spits when he talks...) Troll... Gaper.... what's the difference? Help us dear lord!
  15. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    Shini - Climbing the NF is no "Scout Troop" trip. You obviously have no cred speaking about gear prep for a difficult winter alpine climb by experienced alpinists. These climbers were not climbing to mountain just to get to the top by the easiest route to enjoy the sunrise. They have spent years climbing mountains across the world and developing technical skills that enable them to move vertically in challenging conditions. You seem to be more of a horizontal mover that lack the technical climbing skills for difficult routes - so STFU.
  16. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    If you were carrying all that crap - you wouldn't be doing a NF route light and fast - you might be prepared for camping at the hut at Cooper's Spur and taking photo's of the icefall.
  17. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    I'll throw out another theory on the two snow caves (not that it matters at this point), but there was a cell phone ping that reportedly came from different location adjacent to the first call location in the middle of the week. Granted they could have come from the same location - and it was just the margin of error from the recievers - but what if Kelly traversed out of the cave to find a better cell signal and later could not find his way back to the first cave (that had the rope, tools, etc.) due to the stormy weather necessitating digging a second cave. I have been on Hood in horrible conditions and it's not a walk in the park (esp. at altitude) and I can easily imagine getting disoriented in nuclear conditions. The footprints in the snow look like doubles going uphill. I think it is very apparent the the "Y" is not a visible rescue sign, but an anchor around the rock. If you were in nuclear conditions near the top of Hood you would have to anchor yourself or you'd get blown off. I dearly hope Wy'east spits out the others alive.
  18. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    The Oregonian posted an update to the story that stated the following... "Frank James, who flew in from Orlando, Fla., shared details about his brother's phone call Sunday at a news conference this afternoon. He said Kelly James talked to his wife and two of his children during a four-minute phone call Sunday. Kelly James said the team had reached the summit, and implied that he was either injured or so exhausted from either cold or altitude that the others had left him behind in a snow cave to get help." I take that to mean they ALL summited which leads me to presume he is in a cave on the South Side - not the North as previously reported.
  19. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    That's an interesting development that they all topped out. I retract my earlier sentiment and second guessing of the searchers activities. I feel confident now that they will be found alive.
  20. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    The Oregonian reports searchers combing the ZigZag basin and heading out from Parardise. Quite odd. If the injured climber is on the opposite side of the mountain I would imagine they should focus searching for the other two in the trees around Polallie Creek or further north (like the Coe). It's easy to speculate from an armchair - but why would you continue a climb-over when your buddy is injured in a snow cave near the Elliot? If Fuggedaboudit is on the mtn - I hope the DAS Parka Bivvy system is doing him well. Best of luck to them and the rescuers. Help is on the way guys.
  21. Mountain Savvy Avalanche Courses/permit dispute

    I have known Glenn Kessler and Doug Ironside for over 15 years (although we drifted apart sevaral years ago due to my transition from the mountain to a desk job). I have guided over 20 climbs on Mt Hood with Doug and have spent many afternoons telemark skiing with Glenn - so obviously my comments are biased, however they are important because a) I know them personally, b) I was guide on Mt Hood and know the technicalities regarding the laws concerning guiding on the mountain, and c) Mt Hood is near and dear to my heart and I want its use protected from outlaws. It is very obvious from the letters and website pages operated by OMA with regard to this issue that they have turned their unlawful actions on Mt Hood into a grudge. They were caught operating illegially on the mountain without proper permits (and eveidently had done this numerous times over the years) and since they have been caught, they are acting like crybabies. Waaa. I encourage ANYONE to meet Doug and Glenn and determine for themselves that their experience, attitude, and caring nature are of the highest quality. You can even do this from your chair by digging into this online saga a little deeper and looking at comments from others. Anyone who is trying to smear and slander them should be be very suspect as Doug and Glenn are great folks. I do not know anything about OMA other than they seem to be horrible nasty people from their slanderous remarks.