sjwages Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 Climb: Le Petit Cheval-Spontaneity Arête Date of Climb: 8/6/2006 Trip Report: Last summer Trogdor and I climbed the descent gulley in its entirety not knowing where to start the climb. This time I went with Astrov and Jeseeca, beginning the ridge climb immediately upon entering the gulley--much better. Good rock, off the beaten path, lots of moderate climbing (up to 7P but we probably ran a couple together). Rapping the upper ridge took longer than descending the gulley. Approaching Petit Cheval The ridge as seen from the gulley Mantling on fairly clean, solid rock Slinging an opportune tree There are plenty of cracks, flakes, horns... Rewarding views and exposure And the summit Gear Notes: up to 3.5", shoulda had shoes for the descent Approach Notes: The fixed ropes are getting flat, first one has an exposed core 10 feet up. Quote
goatboy Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 How exactly do you find the start of this route? Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 Nice climb, I wish I would have chose to climb this weekend. Chossy gullies suck Quote
sjwages Posted August 7, 2006 Author Posted August 7, 2006 How exactly do you find the start of this route? Not a lot of info out there for this one. HWY 20, MP 164-3/4 The trail starts where the woods are closest to the highway, winds down to the creek, and crosses the creek via debris and a large tree fall. From there it leads up, breaks into the open and crosses a 20 ft wide wash leftward. The rest of the trail/cairns are pretty easy to spot. When an apparent dead end is reached, ascend a 15 ft wall with big holds and a cairn at the top. The footpath will then lead to a series of fixed ropes and the base of a gulley. We ascended about 30 feet of 4th class loose stuff to the right of the overhang and cruised the ridge to the 5th class section. Quote
ericb Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 Did you climb the roof pitch, or did you go up the gulley past this to start? Quote
DirtyHarry Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 I heard this route sucks. Looks like it too. Quote
ericb Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 I did it last October, and thought it was pretty good. I don't agree with the ratings it's been given though. Felt more like 5.5 or 5.6. The reason we did it was weather - the forecast was pretty dodgy, and its location far east makes it a good alternative. Also, because of the descent gully, you can bail off the arete with a single rap at any point and walk off if the weather moves in....hence why we did it. Put it in the books as a good moderate poor weather alternative. Quote
sjwages Posted August 7, 2006 Author Posted August 7, 2006 Did you climb the roof pitch, or did you go up the gulley past this to start? Went up the gulley instead of the roof pitch. Quote
ericb Posted August 7, 2006 Posted August 7, 2006 Gotcha...we started on the arete a little earlier, and got two more pitches. The roof was actually pretty fun and spiced it up a bit. Quote
Kat_Roslyn Posted August 8, 2006 Posted August 8, 2006 A friend, escolar, and I did this route last Friday and it pretty much sucks. period. We were climbing and wondering when we were actually going to get to the good part the whole way, the instructions made it sound better. The pitches were short, the rock, for Wa pass, was relatively dirty and there wasn't those long fun cracks so you never get into it. All in all it is a pretty dumb climb with redemption being the most amazing scenic scape and very pleasant weather. Quote
Billygoat Posted August 8, 2006 Posted August 8, 2006 harsh Mabee we should re-name it "Kat Shit" Quote
astrov Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 does this remind anyone else of the Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Canon Cliff in New Hampshire? Not the climbing, per se, but the feature itself (big granite ridge, similar color rock ...) Quote
layton Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 I heard Kat had to take, and shit herself from fear. Then she called her boi-toi on the phone, sobbing, and he had to come rescue/console her. Quote
layton Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 oh oh!! and she smokes crack while pregnant to collect extra welfare for her new flipper-baby. Quote
goatboy Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 does this remind anyone else of the Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Canon Cliff in New Hampshire? Not the climbing, per se, but the feature itself (big granite ridge, similar color rock ...) Huh. Or perhaps it reminds people of the ice cave we all slept in on the backside of Looking Glass Rock, NC after the freak July blizzard? Not the route, per se, but the obscure reference itself.... Quote
astrov Posted August 11, 2006 Posted August 11, 2006 heh heh. Yes, but I'm sure the Whitney-G has seen 10x as many ascents as any route in Washington has seen ... so it's not THAT obscure. Just wait and I'll build consensus. Quote
EscalarK2 Posted August 13, 2006 Posted August 13, 2006 Fully agree with Kat on this one, the best climbing comes when you wander off route. Rumor has it the face still hasnt been climbed yet... Quote
G-spotter Posted August 13, 2006 Posted August 13, 2006 . Rumor has it the face still hasnt been climbed yet... Not any more. I free soloed it naked while dropping acid tabs. The route name is "Hebecataphonicacrohydrocataleptichorticultimopanglossspermiabiliphobia" and it goes at IV 5.3 WI2+ Quote
underworld Posted July 2, 2007 Posted July 2, 2007 so is this route hot or not? saw a topo and it looked good. then saw this thread. worth it? thx Quote
Winter Posted July 3, 2007 Posted July 3, 2007 (edited) Climbed it on Sat. My $.02. This route is fun, but it isn't classic. The upper pitches are good on a cool formation with nice views and pretty solid rock. But the climbing is easy and broken with lots of ledges. The money pitch is the last one with the 5.9 boulder problem into the 5.7 crack. If you climb undeneath the overhanging roof on the second pitch, which is like 5.7 maybe, the 2nd and 3rd class ledges last for more like 500-600 feet until you get to the upper pitches. Kind of a drag, but walking up the ridge top is way better than being in the gully. The raps looked low angle with lots of bushes and trees, so we descended the gully. Shitty but manageable. Not any worse than lots of descents in the range. The route is worth doing once and proved to be a nice moderate for an anniversary climb the day after a long drive up from Portland. If you do it, control your expectations and enjoy being outside, and you'll have a good time. Here's a couple more photos of the route. Looking up at the start of the upper pitches Somewhere in the middle of the route Left Facing Corner on Pitch 5 5.7 Crack on Pitch 7 Edited July 4, 2007 by Winter Quote
ivan Posted July 3, 2007 Posted July 3, 2007 If you do it, control your expectations christ if that don't sound like advice to get through this whole fawking tedious life... Quote
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