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Colin

first ascent Mt. Moffit, Entropy Wall, First Ascent

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Jed Brown and I just returned to Fairbanks after making the first ascent of Mt. Moffit's North Wall on July 10-13th.

 

The Entropy Wall (VI, 5.9, A2, WI4+), approximately 1,500m and 33 pitches, is followed by approximately 900 meters of snow and ice slopes leading to Moffit's summit.

 

It was the most serious and commiting climb I've ever done. Some rock was poor, but some was excellent and splitter. Highlights included a perfect snow-mushroom bivy, a 3m horizontal roof, steep water-ice pillars, and lots of free climbing and aid climbing up steep cracks. More pictures to come eventually!

 

Picture of the face:

http://59A2.org/hayes/200607/route.jpg

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Cool.

 

How long did it take?

 

When I was a kid I lived near Delta Junction for a couple of years. We always called Mt. Hayes, "Ghost Mountain" due to its high central peak and two flanking shoulder peaks.

20001101_mthayeswinter.jpg

001.jpg

 

thumbs_up.gif

 

Is "Mt. Moffit" the name of one of the shoulder peaks?

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We flew in from Delta Junction, Pax, and walked out to the Delta River afterwards. Moffit is not one of the shoulders on Mt. Hayes, but a seperate peak. Colby Coombs and Mike Woods guidebook describes the peak and our descent route a little.

 

The climb took us four days roundtrip from our camp. The first two nights we had decent bivies, and the third night we simply stopped to brew and rest a bit.

 

Funny that you say the Eiger of Fairbanks, Dave, because I couldn't stop making that comparison in my mind. Bigger, steeper, and a lot more remote though.

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Huge guys... HUGE! Very impressive! Awesome pics!

 

Geek_em8.gif questions:

 

Pack weight? Did you do lighter leader pack and heavier follower pack? Food for how many days? Rope system (single + tag line)? Tent or siltarp or bivy sack or ...? What else? wave.gif

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Yes, we did a lighter leader pack, and a heavier follower's pack, but on the harder pitches we hauled the leader's pack and the follower jugged. We had a 9.9mm lead line, and a 8.0 mm rap/haul line.

 

We took 1 breakfast, 2 dinners, and 4 days of energy food.

 

We didn't take any tarp or tent or bivysacks, but we did both take synthetic sleeping bags, which turned out to be really important. Jed had a 20 degree bag, and I had a 35 degree bag, so I slept with our one belay jacket.

 

The most interesting gear of the trip must've been the snowshovel, attached to an icetool, used as a rafting paddle...

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Shit colin; Very, very, very friggin' cool! My first thought was mega-Eiger for sure. Second thought was North Twin! Looks like some interesting route-finding involved.

 

Damn good job!

 

Slide show?

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Thanks, duderino.

 

There should be a slideshow August 23rd at Feathered Friends. Although I would prefer otherwise, I think it will cost a few dollars to cover the beer.

 

Funny, North Twin was the other thing we were comparing it to. Before Jed ever showed me a picture, he said "It's a granite and grano-diorite version of N Twin, with snow and ice above..." I of course politely replied, "Send me a fucking picture!"

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