Deck off Ruby's Cafe

[Alpinfox]

 

And anchor the jockey to the ground with a piece of bungee cord.

[Dru]

i saw some guy whip off darkness at noon once while belayed by 10 year old son. 10 year old son was leashed to a backpack full of rocks. when the guy fell off both son and backpack ended up at the first bolt.

 

 

AND the kid was belaying with a GriGri!!!

[underworld]

wait a second...hold the phone. if a gri-gri is a bad idea for belaying a leader, and it looks like a pain-in-the-arse for rapping - is their only strength belaying a follower?

[Cobra_Commander]

AND the kid was belaying with a GriGri!!!

 

kid's lucky the whole wall didn't pull over. He should have clipped in to one of the 4 yellow labs sleeping at the base of heinous

[sk]

wait a second...hold the phone. if a gri-gri is a bad idea for belaying a leader, and it looks like a pain-in-the-arse for rapping - is their only strength belaying a follower?

 

it is my understanding gri gri's are made for hangdogging on sport routes. for gym climbing. for top roping.

 

not good for belaying a trad leader. i never ever use a gri gri to belay someone on a trad lead.

[EWolfe]

AND the kid was belaying with a GriGri!!!

 

kid's lucky the whole wall didn't pull over. He should have clipped in to one of the 4 yellow labs sleeping at the base of heinous

 

The leashed he could do.

[Cobra_Commander]

Should probably clip into more than one. Wouldn't want to be hang-dogging.

[AFIVE]

Gri Gri's are nice on grade VI walls. Three hour belay stints kinda suck without one. Feeding out a few feet and tying a backup knot on the brake end is super handy for relieving yourself or digging around in the haulbag. That being said....if you are on a thin nailing route....probably not a good idea due to the non dynamic properties. They are also good for lazy sport climbers who don't want to hold onto their hangdog buddy up at bolt number whatever.

[Thinker]

My earlier post that was deleted went something like this:

 

I think the fact that there were no slings on the cams contributed to the gear pulling.

 

photo 2 shows all the cams being yanked into a horizontal position by the rope.

 

when the top cam is loaded and violently pulled (back?) into a vertical position all bets are off when one starts predicting where those cam lobes will end up.

 

...POP....goes the weasel.

 

Lather, rinse, and repeat as necessary until you deck.

[RuMR]

nope...totally disagree...climbed a bunch at the creek on small tcu's...never slung them, just used as was with the tape they came with...never had a problem...

 

yer theory might work in flares or cracks that open to the inside, but that particular route is completely parallel...the dude just flat out used the wrong size pieces, period...gri gri had nothing to do with it, and neither did your "theory"...shoot, the piece was at his knee when he cut off...

 

your theory would require climbing that route with 10 or more pieces all with long slings for each one...hmmm, never seen that done before there...

[glassgowkiss]

rudy, of course the pro he put in was a MAJOR factor. but the fact of the matter is that gri-gri does provide less dynamic belay, specially if you are on gear/multi pitch routes. my own empirical experience tells me so. the ONLY times (both times i clipped old fixed wires) that i ripped something out were cases when i was belayed with a gri-gri. in sport climbing really doesn't matter, since the strength of the bolt exeeds the the force generated by the fall of the leader. but in more marginal situations i personally do not want to be belayed by someone with a gri-gri.

in the case of the pictures on ruby his pro sucked donkey dick- and gri-gri or not a splat like that should not take place. but in general even petzl doesn't recommend using gri-gri on gear climbs.

[billcoe]

Your right about that.

 

Every time I look at those pics I cringe. That guy could have popped his noggin on the rock and be rolling quad-like Christopher Reeves style. Lucky F-en Bastard.

 

I'm resolving to stop looking.

[sexual_chocolate]

I always connect my gri gri to my harness with a screamer. Better than an ATC for sure.

[texplorer]

There are alot of dumbasses on this site that either don't climb or are paranoid safety freaks (they probably climb with helmets too)

 

I was just at Indian Creek over the thanksgiving break.

 

I have noticed since the new guidebook came out last year there has been a marked increase in the numbers at IC and the numbers of people at previously seldom visited cliffs. We will probably see alot more of these "decking" stories as more inexperienced people show up at the creek. I don't think I drove past the donelly/supercrack area when there weren't 20 cars there.

 

In my opinion the rock is softer in some places but properly placed cams should still hold well in the creeks parallel sides. As for the "slip" marks on the overclimbed supercrack buttress climbs I think those are likely also caused by incorrectly placed cams as well.

 

Gosolo's Indian Creek and the one I knew even a few years ago was a different place. It was a time where you would walk up and down a cliff and find a crack that "looked good." Sometimes it would be a gem and sometimes you would get your ass kicked. The picture I saw a few weeks ago was one typical to Smith where climbers with shiny new cams stared into the guide and tried to find particular climbs to tick off.

 

It is understandable that a place with such clean cracks and beauty would eventually have a guidebook. Perhaps the desert will have the last laugh though as it spits out those not schooled at the University of Indian Creek.

 

I am glad the dumbass didn't get hurt. Ruby's cafe is a quite difficult climb.

 

Here's a fine desert climb called Deseret Moon. I have nothing bigger than green alien/ blue tcu in while pulling the crux. No helmet, no nuts, no tricams, no falls. The crack on the face above goes for about 60ft at perfect hands size.

 

[Dru]

No tricams I don't understand? How is this possible?

[catbirdseat]

Call me a "paranoid safety freak" then. I'll continue to climb with a helmet. The way I look at it, the brain I have is the only one I'll ever have. A trade-in would be nice, but not an option.

[John Frieh]

Helmet is cheap insurance.

 

I don't know about you but I don't know anyone willing to feed me applesauce through a straw the rest of my life.

 

In the end it's your call but I highly doubt wearing a helmet hinders your climbing ability that greatly.

[RuMR]

and to think of the loss of knotledge possible! oh the horror, the absolute horror...

 

[RuMR]

hey...new nickname for CBS....the knothead!!! or the Knotter...

[RuMR]

Helmet is cheap insurance.

 

I don't know about you but I don't know anyone willing to feed me applesauce through a straw the rest of my life.

 

In the end it's your call but I highly doubt wearing a helmet hinders your climbing ability that greatly.

 

and don't forget the absolute neccissity (spelling?) of a windshirt, ghey buckskin vest, and a shiny rack of neutrinos...

 

one will never be able to send without those decorations!

[John Frieh]

Every other sport gets it... mtn bikes, kayakers, sky divers, skateboarders, bikers, etc etc

 

Helmets might make the difference.

 

Let me guess Rudy... you don't wear your seat belt either.

[RuMR]

depending on the circumstances, i wear a helmet...

 

AND i never leave home without the other gear (a windshirt, ghey buckskin vest, and a shiny rack of neutrinos...)

[DirtyHarry]

Every other sport gets it... mtn bikes, kayakers, sky divers, skateboarders, bikers, etc etc

 

That's because those are called "velocity sports," genius.

 

In other news, is this the forum where we post completely irrelevent photos of ourselves sending our proj's at "The Creek" in order to tangentially illustrate the nonsensical point we just made?

[John Frieh]

Falling objects don't achieve velocity

 

Ice tools do plenty of damage to my face at speeds well below velocity

[DirtyHarry]

You wear a face helmet?

 

You put stickers on that?