Ice Climbing Crampons

[olyclimber]

What do yall use/like/dislike. I'm thinking getting g-14s. Must consume, spend, spend, spend, spend it all. The Ultimate Consumer.

[ryland_moore]

Got 'em and love 'em.

[slothrop]

BD Sabretooths (teeth?) are nice. Need antibot plates, though.

[fishstick]

I really like my G-14s. They're strong and versatile. I found filing down the hoods on the front-points improved perfomance quite a bit. I would strongly recomened the New matic variation (plastic lanier) because they'll probably fit every stiff boot you'd ever consider owning.

 

Overall, I'd give them 5 stars.

 

GB

[Alpinfox]

[olyclimber]

Those wouldn't be expensive enough.

[Alpinfox]

Those wouldn't be expensive enough.

 

Au contraire. Buy them from me; I'll give ya a price gouging the likes of which you won't soon forget.

 

They're "historically significant"!

[JackY]

 

M10s (probably similar to G14s). I have my front points offset.

[kurthicks]

I really like my Charlet Darts for waterfall ice and mixed routes. Mono points seem to suit my footwork technique a little better. I just got a pair of Sarkens for alpine ice (lighter than G14s) and they'll see some waterfalls this winter to check them out.

[Kraken]

Black Diamond Bionics...monopoints baby! SCHAWEET!

[mike_m]

I still use my Bionic mono's for mixed, but went back to my Sabertooths for pure ice last season. Felt much more solid.

[rhyang]

I really like my Charlet Darts for waterfall ice and mixed routes. Mono points seem to suit my footwork technique a little better. I just got a pair of Sarkens for alpine ice (lighter than G14s) and they'll see some waterfalls this winter to check them out.

 

I really like the darts too, and also sampled the dartwins last season. I'm hoping to check out the sarken's on some couloir ice in the Sierras later this fall. Was hoping to get them out on some alpine / glacier ice earlier but it just hasn't happened yet.

[Couloir]

Sarkens

[ken4ord]

 

You have been hanging out with Fred too much.

[NTM]

I got some sarkens for last ice season and thanks to conditions i only got out on them twice, but they were schweet wheni did use em

[Alex]

buying the latest and greatest is nice, but I'd like to take a second and plug used gear. there is nothing wrong with Grade 8's, Rambos or Rambo Comps, or even Footfangs. They are all really good technical ice crampons. If you are not climbing fairly hard ice, it will not matter that much what you strap to your feet. So go check out some of the stuff on this site in yard sale, or at Second Ascent, before you plunk down too much cash on new, overpriced, crampons.

[Couloir]

Good point Alex. Before I bought my Sarkens, I was using, and occasionally still use some single-hinged front points from REI that are almost 30 years old. They still work great!

[John Frieh]

When you do plunk some cash down consider the petzl sarken, dart and dartwin are the same crampon in the rear (part under your heel) and vary only in the front piece. Additionally one can purchase just the front piece so instead of buying 3 pairs of crampons you just buy one and rotate the front pieces (assuming you climb a lot of different ice and mixed) or... don't have to buy a whole new crampon every time you wear out just the front points...

 

Just a thought... if you'd like to test drive some pons before you spend some cash consider emailing Mike Palmer and encouraging him to hold the dry ice fest so you can try out some pons without having to drive to CO for an ice fest there!

[Jedi]

I like my G-14's (mono) for waterfall and my Sarkens on alpine routes.

[tomtom]

G-12's.

[cynicalwoodsman]

I have a pair of old BD Switchblades. I'd kill to find anti-bots or the inter-changeable mono's for 'em though.

Anybody now where I might find 'em?

[John Frieh]

I have a set of mono and dual points for the switchblades you can have (if I can find them). You pay shipping or arrange pick up in PDX.

[rhyang]

I had an opportunity to compare and contrast sarken's and G14's. If the ice is hard, cold, and brittle, I prefer the G14's - can't beat rambo frontpoints for that stuff. If it's more likely to be aerated, soft, or just frozen neve then the sarken's are a good bit lighter.

[Dr_Crash]

Good point Alex. Before I bought my Sarkens, I was using, and occasionally still use some single-hinged front points from REI that are almost 30 years old. They still work great!

 

How do you like the Sarkens? I was going to buy some but am hesitating because after two redesigns of the anti bott plates people are still complaining about snow getting in between the boot and the plates. They look sweet though, and if I can find the old anti botts I'd buy them immediately.

 

Can you also compare them to G14s?

 

Thanks!

drC

[John Frieh]

Are you shopping for ice climbing crampons or snow slogging crampons? If you are shopping for just ice crampons then an antibott plate should be the least of your worries.

 

Both will climb ice just fine. The G -14 gives you the option to switch to mono instead of having to buy a second set of crampons. On the other hand you will likely have to buy a second set of crampons for snow slogs as the g -14 isn't ideal for that type of climbing.

 

I have had no problems with my antibott plates on my sarkens. I do spray them with teflon lube prior to snow slog trips.