ken4ord Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 So we arrived........... We saw......... We climbed and saw even closer......... Climbed again and then tried to stay warm one night out on the North Normal Route............ Finally got around for some ice after many days of climbing at the end of our trip........ Figured it could go........and it did......... We celebrated............ Don't worry a full report to come, just don't have time right now to write down 2 weeks worth of climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Killer. Is your line the left-most couloir in the photo? Looks like it validated bringing the ice-tools to Africa! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Hey Jay, No the line we did was the Ice Window, the right hand one. The left one is Diamond Coulier, which hasn't seen ascent for a long time, an Italian team was there checking it out and back down, my guess it goes at M7 maybe M10 for the first couple pitches, then up towards the top save some reseveres for 5+ ice. Our route was more moderate maybe 3+ though my partner says 4-4+, it was good either way. Nobody had done the Ice Window for 5-10 years is what everyone was saying on the mountain, it is considered out of shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Oh, man! How long is that couloir? Frickin' amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 nice. i didn't know there was ice over there. doh! loving the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 (edited) Nobody had done the Ice Window for 5-10 years is what everyone was saying on the mountain, it is considered out of shape. Awesome! What a spectacular way to do Mt. Kenya. An ice line like that in central Africa... "The Gods Must Be Crazy". Edited August 16, 2005 by Dechristo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Cool stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 fuckin' awesome Ken! Ice in Africa, nuts. looks like you got your screw caps on there rusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 sweet jezus! more we want more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicoli11 Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 dope (in many ways) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Damn its good to see the Window and Diamond are reformed. Everyone said they'd be gone for good now. What's next ken Breach Wall on Kili? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 just don't team up with Rob Taylor on the breach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Wow. That is so awesome! So does Mount Kenya pretty much stand alone as the only big, glaciated technical mountain in that area, or is it part of a legit range? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Nice job!! In the spring of '01 there was no ice. Nice to see it back. Mt. Kenya is pretty much a stand alone mountain with several sub peaks. There are several other smaller peaks on surrounding ridge lines that have technical lines, but not a whole lot. Looked like there was signficant potential for new rock lines on the north and east sides. Great place!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griz Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 i find myself aroused ... sexually, of course. ,dude. nice climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 Yeah it was a good time. There will be more picture later, right now I got to catch up on work. We were there for 14 day and climbed a lot of the sub-peaks (6 of them), so I have around 200 images, just gave you guys a sample. There is still a ton of potential up there, like someone mentioned the East and North face area has the most potential on the main summit. If and when I go back I would like to do some new routing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MountaingirlBC Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 mmmmmmmmmmmmmm I was just talking about this one the other day. I'd love to do it one day. Thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Thanks for the taste Ken, that looks great. The Diamond Couloir and the Ice Window were on everyone's radar back when Chouinard's book Climbing Ice came out years ago, back when Terrordactyls were cutting edge technology. There were some good photos of those routes in that book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Damn Ken, those pictures are great. Looks like a boatload of fun! I just ran into Josh and he said he's headed over there in December; I'm jealous. Maybe I'll have to come too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Dude. Nice pics! I had to wipe off my screen after looking at those couliors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolanr Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Just finished reading "No Picnic on Mt. Kenya" about Italian POW's who escape from camp to climb the peak w/ almost no knowledge of the mountain or the route. Good book if you get a chance to check it out. Sounds like very interesting flora/fauna on the slopes of the mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Excellent, Ken! Glad to see you're gettin' some climbing in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 That looks like an all-around awesome experience. And that must be some straight sativa in those equatorial climes eh??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted August 18, 2005 Share Posted August 18, 2005 Stunning. What an incredible experience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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