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Posted

So we arrived...........

 

3794Mt_Kenya_001.jpg

 

We saw.........

 

3794Mt_Kenya_002.jpg

 

We climbed and saw even closer.........

 

3794Mt_Kenya_003.jpg

 

Climbed again and then tried to stay warm one night out on the North Normal Route............

 

3794Mt_Kenya_004.jpg

 

Finally got around for some ice after many days of climbing at the end of our trip........

 

3794Mt_Kenya_005.jpg

 

Figured it could go........and it did.........

 

3794Mt_Kenya_006.jpg

 

We celebrated............

 

3794Mt_Kenya_007.jpg

 

 

 

 

Don't worry a full report to come, just don't have time right now to write down 2 weeks worth of climbing. bigdrink.gif

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Posted

Hey Jay,

 

No the line we did was the Ice Window, the right hand one. The left one is Diamond Coulier, which hasn't seen ascent for a long time, an Italian team was there checking it out and back down, my guess it goes at M7 maybe M10 for the first couple pitches, then up towards the top save some reseveres for 5+ ice. Our route was more moderate maybe 3+ though my partner says 4-4+, it was good either way. Nobody had done the Ice Window for 5-10 years is what everyone was saying on the mountain, it is considered out of shape.

Posted (edited)
Nobody had done the Ice Window for 5-10 years is what everyone was saying on the mountain, it is considered out of shape.

 

3794Mt_Kenya_006.jpg

 

Awesome! What a spectacular way to do Mt. Kenya.

 

An ice line like that in central Africa... "The Gods Must Be Crazy".

Edited by Dechristo
Posted

Damn its good to see the Window and Diamond are reformed. Everyone said they'd be gone for good now.

 

What's next ken Breach Wall on Kili?

Posted

Wow. That is so awesome! So does Mount Kenya pretty much stand alone as the only big, glaciated technical mountain in that area, or is it part of a legit range?

Posted

Nice job!! In the spring of '01 there was no ice. Nice to see it back.

 

Mt. Kenya is pretty much a stand alone mountain with several sub peaks. There are several other smaller peaks on surrounding ridge lines that have technical lines, but not a whole lot. Looked like there was signficant potential for new rock lines on the north and east sides. Great place!!

Posted

Yeah it was a good time. There will be more picture later, right now I got to catch up on work. We were there for 14 day and climbed a lot of the sub-peaks (6 of them), so I have around 200 images, just gave you guys a sample.

 

There is still a ton of potential up there, like someone mentioned the East and North face area has the most potential on the main summit. If and when I go back I would like to do some new routing.

Posted

Thanks for the taste Ken, that looks great.

 

The Diamond Couloir and the Ice Window were on everyone's radar back when Chouinard's book Climbing Ice came out years ago, back when Terrordactyls were cutting edge technology. There were some good photos of those routes in that book.

Posted

 

Damn Ken, those pictures are great. Looks like a boatload of fun! I just ran into Josh and he said he's headed over there in December; I'm jealous. Maybe I'll have to come too!

 

fruit.gif

Posted

Just finished reading "No Picnic on Mt. Kenya" about Italian POW's who escape from camp to climb the peak w/ almost no knowledge of the mountain or the route. Good book if you get a chance to check it out. Sounds like very interesting flora/fauna on the slopes of the mountain.

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