Liberty Ridge- Ipsut approach 4/25 conditions

[Fuggedaboudit]

On Sat 4/23 flew into Sea-Tac from NY, bought food and fuel. By 8AM we (party of 2) were at Ipsut Creek trailhead after self registering. At that time the weather forecast was for possible showers eve of 4/24, partly cloudy (no precip) Monday and Tuesday. Packed food for 3 days, fuel for 4. Road into Ipsut trailhead is in good shape this year, much better than last year. The trail up to Dick Creek campground is in good shape and pleasant. There is a log bridge just before Dick Creek camp that is washed out. it still spans creek but it is upside down. In AM on way in we forded the water but on way out in PM the water was much higher and faster so we straddled the log and slid across slowly. Just past Dick Creek there is snow on the trail up and on the switchbacks. As you near about 5,300' or so the snow gets DEEP. We postholed through wet deep snow knee deep for hours. By 6,000 we were punching through to our waists at times. Made camp at 6,300 or so just as rain, light hail started. Rained all night but not super heavy. Mon Am we break camp and head up to Curtis Ridge intending to drop down onto Carbon and head up to Thumb Rock for eve. But the wind is really blowing, about 30 mph, possibly gusting higher. Looking at Carbon there is plenty of snow, the route across glacier from both from St. Elmo or from Curtis is laid out. Looked like it would be easy to get up onto toe of Lib Ridge by obvious large snow ramp on Liberty Wall side of toe. Lib Ridge itself has lots of snow on it, lower lib ridge (up to T.R.) looked plenty covered by snow as far as rockfall goes. However there were snow plumes comming of Thumb rock at least as long as thumb R. is high as we scoped route. Huge snow plumes comming of upper Curtis onto Wilis Wall, hundreds of feet long. Wind up there was probably 50mph, and funny thing was it was comming from East. We called Rangers for recorded forecast. The two days of good weather were gone, replaced by low pressure, thunderstorm that eve and showers the next day. That killed our window. No point in pushing through deep snow on glacier to be stuck in 1-2 days bad weather at Thumb, run out of fuel and have to descend. As we hiked out saw large lenticular over Columbia Crest. So next year (third attempt) wil have to be the charm. For the rest of you, good luck and my 2cents of advice: aproach from White River!!! We saw only one other set of tracks, 3-4 people, one with snowshoes that made it to about our camp and turned around. I dont think anyone else has been up as high as we made it. The snow conditions are just shit. Simply no reason to endure that elevation climb on Ipsut approack with W. River opening next week. The route from our high point on curtis ridge looked good, snow on upper route, especially the all-important slope between top of Black Pyramid and 13,000'. Also looked like there was a snow slope that you coud take to right of 13,000' up over bergshrund to Lib Cap. We brought 4 pickets and 7 screws but didnt look like we would have used screws. GOOD LUCK TO ALL OF YOU AND HOPE THIS SAVES SOME HEADACHES AND HEARTBREAK. Finally, just wanted to say that when I ask for route conditions on this site I really dont think you need to post S&R photos of helicopter body recoveries instead of telling me whether or not the snowbridges on Carbon were still solid last mid May, which is what I was looking for when I asked for "info" not "people can get hurt or die doing this". I think this site is a great rescource for information but am really turned off by someone anonymously parenting me to "climb the mountain on her terms not yours". You dont know me, I dont know you. The difference is, I keep my mouth shut.

[rbw1966]

You dont know me, I dont know you. The difference is, I keep my mouth shut.

 

Really?

[Jim]

On Sat 4/23 flew into Sea-Tac from NY, .......As you near about 5,300' or so the snow gets DEEP . ...... But the wind is really blowing, about 30 mph , possibly gusting higher. ..... I think this site is a great rescource for information but am really turned off by someone anonymously parenting me to "climb the mountain on her terms not yours". You dont know me, I dont know you. The difference is, I keep my mouth shut.

 

Oh boy.

[ivan]

Post deleted by To_The_Top

[Squid]

Thanks for sharing the TR.

 

and yes, we're all turned off by excessive attitude.

[skyclimb]

Thanks for the information, it is appreciated.

Hopefully next year you will have success.

[graupel]

Unfortunately, uncooperative weather and conditions are the bane of those that don't live here. Having to get time off from work, book a plane ticket and commit means things aren't stacked in your favor.

 

Unfortunately also, there is previous history of folks having mishaps on Lib Ridge in particular. With several incidents of Californians a few years back, one can't help but think that they either 1) didn't take it seriously enough or 2) had already made the trip and felt obliged to give'r a go.

 

Sorry you didn't get your goal, but at least you made a rational decision to bail when the mountain didn't cooperate. Spring weather can be fickle here.

 

Early season condition reports are always welcome.

[cluck]

I don't think we're trying to "parent" you, just policing our own. Local climbers are affected (either directly for those in SAR or indirectly through media and public perception) whenever someone gets hurt on local mountains, so we have an interest in weeding out potential accident victims. Nobody here knows you so you got grilled a little. Try not to take it personally. In any case, I'm sure we're all happy you're safe and appreciate the report. Better luck next time

[knelson]

Fuggedaboudit,

 

Glad to hear you're out safe. I was honestly thinking about your group last weekend and hoping you'd decided to bail.

 

Regarding you being miffed about the response you got regarding "route information", I must've misunderstood your request because that's not how I read it.

 

"Any advice on whether mid-May looks good or whether I should try to move it up into April appreciated."

 

Doesn't look like you're asking for advice on snow bridges, route, etc... not that the info from last year would do you any good this year anyways.

 

I think most here were thinking... "traveling all the way from back east for THIS season?!! Yuck. Use your time somewhere better." And as others noted, that route seems to have an overabundance of accidents involving out-of-staters.

 

While NOLSE's pics were probably a bit much, his advice seemed pretty good. (Can't believe I just said that.) I think there'd be fewer accidents on that route if more people followed it - which is tough to do when you plan a trip just for that objective.

 

Just my 2cents,

kurt

[olyclimber]

Better luck next year, and thanks for sharing your experience up there.

 

I seem to remember the specific post you seem to be referring to. Try to remember that this is a free bulletin board, and when you ask a question you're going to get all kinds "advice". When you ask your question next year, you might want to give specific information about your plans, your level of experience, and what exactly it is you want to know. That said, someone will probably tell you to "climb the mountain on her terms not yours" anyway. In the end, that is what you'll end up doing. If you thought that stuff was annoying, you haven't seen the anything, as far as this board is concerned.

 

Again, best of luck next year. I'll leave you with this advice: Do or do not. There is no try.

[manky]

Fugged,

We were in the same weather conditions on the Gib. Returned to Copper Creek for beer.

Next year.

[layton]

you should'a gone for it

[OlegV]

To fully enjoy LR, you must climb it in bad weather...

[Winter]

Haha! This post is rich.

 

Same old story - NY boy asks for irrelevent beta, cc.com assholes rip him a new one, NY boy get feelings hurt, cc.com assholes rip him a new one again, NY boy runs with tail between legs never to be seen again until he again asks for irrelevant beta. What a romance.

[jaee]

As an old friend once said, "Well, you might take one look at that route and swallow your tongue". True dat.

 

Of course, he sailed up it one day after we got out with a few cracked ribs, a tweaked knee, and a crevasse fall after getting pummelled at TR w/ high winds, lotsa snow, full effect.

 

Weather is key and so far we're just not getting much love from Ra. Let's hope May finally brings some decent Wx.

[cartomat]

...and next year it is...

 

Truly sad.

Edited December 20, 2006 by cartomat

[Careless_Ev]

Whoa...

[CatsClaw]

Rest in Peace Jerry

Edited December 20, 2006 by To_The_Top