Fuggedaboudit

I am very happy withthe Hightech Altimax. Its $139 now: http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/produc...47%204294966814 It clips nicely to your harness or pack- I always ended up clipping my old altimeter watch to my harness anyway. If you are doing anything remotely technical and wearing gloves, youll probably end up doing the same.

Anyone know where to get it?

Not a tech genius or anything but you might want to consider that an alpine climbing helmet is designed to protect the top of your head from ice and rockfall, even more so than impact with the ground. Snowboard helmet is designed to protect against ground impact. Also, try putting on a snowboard helmet and an alpine pack with 2-3 days of gear and tilt your eyes up like you were belaying your friend or leading. Does the back of the snowboard helmet hit the top of the pack, pushing it down over your eyes? Snowboard type helmet also might not work w/ most headlamps. Lastly, if it covers your ears can you hear your partner when he says "on belay" around a corner 60 meters away in the wind? I'm not saying, I'm just saying...depends on what type of climbing you have in mind I guess.

I have the Arcteryx Gamma MX- next to my La Sportiva Nepal Evos might be my favorite piece of clothing gear. Maybe 60 days alpine/ice use in total and they are still in great shape. Have worn them on Mt. Washington and at Lake Whiloughby in the single digits with wind- still warm enough with the midweight capilene. I think these are heavier than the AR pants but I think they are also warmer. The side pockets are perfect location/size. One peice of your clothing system that you never have to screw with once its on. They are easy to stich up/patch. Since you asked about warmer, I have been on Rainier in June and July and in the afternoon you are hot in them, but I always find that its easy to strip down the upper body layers, take off the gaiters and be OK. Yes they are expensive but you wont need a new pair for a LOOOONG time.

Have one and love it with a pair of Grivel tools w/sliders. Have you tried contacting Mike Makely at GNA? If anyone can get it in the USA he can.

Thanks for the info guys. My problem is that we havent been able to get a decent map of where all these huts/cabins/trailheads are. I tried to buy an out of print guidebook but nobody had it in stock. It must have sounded a bit dumb asking about a cabin 500 yards from the parking lot. We'll shoot for it in a day, if conditions are slow then a short bivy somewhere along the way and over to the South side and down the next. I will definetely post pics and a TR with approach conditions. Also will be trying out a half sleeping bag/DAS parka bivy system, will let you all know exactly how much that sucks if I have to use it-yes I know, "if you bring bivy gear you will bivy".

Tilly Jane A frame- sounds like a nice option. I know the NF is done in a day, but I figure thats with fair to decent conditions on the approach, and that the approach starts at the Cloud Cap parking lot. If we were starting from Tilly jane (or farther away if roads damaged/washed out) then it wouldnt be realistic to do it in a day. The "hut" option would allow us to get there the day before and get an early start the next day. It also allows us to carry minimal sleeping gear. BTW who do I contact to register for the A Frame and get some more info?

Hope that the worst of the flooding is over for you guys. We are going to be a party of 3 trying for the NF of Hood 2nd week of December. First time on Hood. Just learned that there is a hut/shelter at 7000' on Cooper Spur. Is it a reasonable place to bivy for the night if attempting the NF? How far/long is it from Cloud Cap parking lot? Is it open in December? How long/far from this "hut" to the base of the NF couloirs?

Ok, knocked down from $180 to $150. I'll pay the shipping, US priority ground.

SOLD New $359, selling 50% off used but in excellent condition for $180 plus shipping. This is last years "Hightail" model. Rated to 15 degrees, was plenty warm on Rainier's summit this June. Packs down to size of a loaf of bread. It is light grey in color. It is in excellent condition, no visible wear/tear. There is only one right side zipper, no footbox zipper like they added for 2006. It has been compressed about a dozen times, but I have fluffed it up after every trip in the dryer on low and then hung it on a hanger uncompressed in a closet. Link to the Northface site: http://www.thenorthface.com/opencms/opencms/tnf/gear.jsp?site=NA&model=AZE0

Sorry, they are long gone.

So I dont get run over by drunk guidos cruising 3rd Aveneue. Also think the new DAS style is really ugly. I had an old DAS size XL for a few years but it was always too big, sold it a few months ago.

Post deleted by Fuggedaboudit

I am very happy with the pair of phoenix ropes that I bought last fall. Used them ice climbing this winter and took one of them this June on Liberty Ridge. For ice climbing they are awesome, you might consider the 70M option. I had thought about buying a 30m rope for Lib Ridge but felt that the 2lbs in weight savings from a 30m rope did not = safety of longer rope in crevase rescue situation for party of 2. I was happy that we had the extra length when we pitched out parts of the climb. I also like them cause they come in red and blue which are easy to tell apart and are easy to yell out to the belayer when you are around a corner ("blue!" doesnt sound like "red!"). Be warned though they tangle up like a bitch when new, the first time you toss them for rappel you will be in for a nasty suprise if you dont run a belay device through them a few times end to end to get out the twists. It is also guaranteed that you be telling your friends to "yeah just step all over the ropes with the f-ing crampons" at every belay- they are thin! I have thought about buying a joker or serenity and cutting it down to 50M, and bringing a second static line (maybe 5-6mm) for rapping. Just not at the level of skill for the type of climbs that would justify such a hot-rod setup.

Interested in one of the NF couloirs the first week of December. Never been to Hood before, so have a few questions about logistics since we are in the planning stages. Since I've never been there before, pardon what may be stupid questions in advance. I tried to buy the guidebook but its out of print. Will cloud cap parking lot be open first half of December? How far is it from cloud cap parking lot to "tie-in rock"? How far is it from cloud cap parking lot to north face bergshrund? If we decide to hike in the night before and bivy at tie-in rock the night before do we have to pay any park fees or get any special permits? How far is it from Timberline Lodge to Cloud cap parking lot- we are thinking about stashing a car at Timberline so we can descend the South side. Thanks.

Rob- sent you an e-mail.

Truth be told, I'm no Henry Barber. I "aid" off leashes when hungover and/or leading the steeper multipitch stuff. BTW I would sell the pair for $225 plus shipping.

Want to trade my used Quarks for a pair of Light Wings. Both Quarks have new cascade picks that have only seen 3 days of use. Includes a spare cascade pick in very good shape as well. Both Quarks are hammers and come with the "fang" or "horn" (or whatever they call it) for leashless climbing. No leashes included. Only intersted in Light Wings (no rubber on shaft) with the yellow stripe down the shaft and the full spike on the bottom. If one is an adze thats a plus. Evolution picks a plus. PM me if interested.

I've sold lotsa gear to friends, almost always 50%. What is 10% either way between friends? Recently sold almost a full rack to my buddy who is wanting to learn to lead. It was all in good condition, sold it for 50%, maybe even less. Thing is whenever I need it I can always borrow it, and most of the time he'll be with me anyway. If either of you still feels guilty about something pound 2 sixpacks together and you'll end up at 50% I guarantee it.

Goatboy- sent you a PM.

I have used both Gi-Gi and Reversino (smaller ropes). Use them for ice climbing with 8mm ropes. I personally prefer the Gi-Gi, it is smoother for autolocking the second(s)than the Reversino, esp when the ropes ice up. As for rapping the Gi-Gi is far superior, works great again when your ropes are a bit wet and frozen. With the Gi-Gi (as you all know already) you have to remember to flip it one way for belaying second and another for rapping. If you are afraid youll screw this up just spraypaint one side a different color. Finally I have had more than one climbing partner tell me I was "on belay" with reversino only to check it and find out he had put the ropes in backward (brake hand over the sharp side and ropes to me over the smooth side)which you cant do with ATC or other devices that belay leaders. Old style ATC plus Gi-Gi weighs about the same as the ATC Guide.

"belaying Willy above the Black Pyramid"

OK, here are links to some photos that are in the "gallery" of this website. I still cant figure out how to actually add the photos here, if anyone knows how, please just add the pics here. Glacier Basin looking at St. Elmo's Pass http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561022_004-thumb.JPG St. Elmo's Pass camp http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561St-thumb.jpg Traversing from St. Elmo's to Curtis Ridge http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561Traversing_wintrop_towards_Curtis_Ridge- Camp on the Carbon Glacier http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561009_017-thumb.JPG Nice view from the tent http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561008_018-thumb.JPG Good shot of the route as it looked 6/6/06 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561LR_Route_from_Carbon_camp-thumb.jpg Belaying Willy somewhere above the Black Pyramid http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561Belaying_Willy_top_of_Black_Pyramid-thumb.jpg Our camp below what I thought was Liberty Cap morning of day 5 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561004_022-thumb.JPG Willy and me about ready to head down, taken by those two guys from Montana http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561Me_and_Willy_on_top_day_5-med.jpg

I just posted some photos in the "gallery". How do I add them here?

Here is a copy of my entry of this climb that I posted on Summitpost. I'll add some pictures next week. First- THANKS to David G. Climbing Ranger at Schurman for the kind words and the offer of water and some food after our descent Friday. Second- I'm posting this because I wanted to make sure that nobody else does what we did, follow a lonely set of footsteps off route when your already tired and moving too slow and go up and into harder climbing to the right when there is an easier snow ramp somewhere off to the left. Overall the route is in great shape, with deep steps kicked in for lots of the route, just some parts the deeper snow becomes a negative. Third- there were two strong climbers who came up after us the next morning the same way (Friday 6/9 around 12PM) from Montana. If you two read this, am I crazy or did we really do 500' of the top of the Liberty Wall? Finally- thanks to the positive people on this site that I have gotten useful information from over the last few years. Anyway, heres the post: "Had flown out to try this route two previous years (in April 2005 and May 2004) and after pushing in from Ipsut entrance to Curtis Ridge camp but got weathered off mountain both times without setting foot on Ridge. This year topped out a bit off route on 6/8/06 at 8:30 PM after a very long day with partner Willy Nash. Exhausted and with light fading we camped about 200' below and 500 yards west of Liberty Cap. Lots of snow on the mountain made for slow travel. Day 1 camped at St. Elmo's Pass, day 2 camped on Carbon Glacier below Curtis Ridge, day 3 at Thumb Rock and day 4 on top of what I thought was Liberty Cap but actually turned out to be a subsidiary "cap". Very draining day to get to top, belayed out about 10 pitches in total, and got off route above Black Pyramid. Hardest climbing came ABOVE the Black Pyramid at about 13,500' when we got a bit off-route and veered over too far right (west) and ended up coming up onto a subsidiary "cap" that was about 200' lower and 200 yards west of Liberty Cap. I didnt realize this until a few days later looking at photos. Anyway that unexpected detour spiced things up- it involved a 50' high WI 3 pitch followed by a 100' 70 degree snow pitch. Very different climbing WI3 with 2 ice axes and pack at 13,500' totally exhausted. After that pitch I was psychologically out of gas, I looked at my partner and said "thats it, you have to lead the rest of this or we are bivying right here." Luckily the end of the difficulties was at the top of the steep snow pitch above. Also lost a picket about 3 hours above Thumb in the dark (slid into a crevasse we had belayed). When there was no ice or the ice was crap we had to do sitting body belays in snow backed up by axes (not very reassuring, especially on a single 8mm rope). Encountered no rockfall but there were small avalanches going off on slope immediately to our right as we climbed above Thumb Rock in the dark, one of them sounded quite close. I would suggest you try going around to the left above Thumb if you climb in heavy snow conditions as we did. Thankful for the good weather which held all 5 days. Descended by traversing from Liberty Cap across Winthrop, picked up Emmons route about 11,500'. Met a strong pair of climbers from Texas, Brian and Kelly, you two are gentlemen." Oh yeah: 4 16cm screws, 2 SMC pickets and 2 ice axes (1 66cm axe and 1 53cm w/ a hammer).