5 Best Highlights of the Past Year

[Winter]

quote:

---

Originally posted by plexus:

1. Cranking first V4 problem

2. FA on a 5.10d trad line down in Oaxaca. 100 meters down, 100 more to go.

---

Let me get this right ... you just sent a v4 and your leading 10d trad? Perhaps I'm being trolled ... but what's up with that?

 

 

[ 11-19-2002, 07:59 PM: Message edited by: Winter ]

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Winter:

quote:

---

Originally posted by plexus:

1. Cranking first V4 problem

2. FA on a 5.10d trad line down in Oaxaca. 100 meters down, 100 more to go.

---

Let me get this right ... you just sent a v4 and your leading 10d trad? Perhaps I'm being trolled ... but what's up with that?

 

---

Hey I'd like to be leading some 10d trad right now. Probably more like .9d right now hehe. Just to throw out some bs - how do you know he or she lead the 10d pitch(es) and didn't follow? I can follow way above my lead ability. Also I think bouldering V4 (20) is pretty good. Keep it up. I don't see any trolluping

[Winter]

Oh hey, don't get me wrong. I'm not dissin the v420 bouldering, I was just impressed by the .10d trad. I assumed he led it when he used the word "trad." Otherwise, what's the point ... you get extra points 'cause you have to clean?

[plexus]

I can't get that quote function to work on my CPU .

 

Not trolling you Winter. Not much of a fisherman, but even I caught a few humpies last Sept. when they were running like mad on the Skagit.

 

Oh thought drift.

 

I didn't lead the 5.10d section. I led up to the cave below the 5.10d section, and that had some 5.10 moves but not the overhanging hand-jamming the exit out of the cave had.

 

The toughest part was the run-out 5.8ish friable slab above that.

 

My friend went back with a French guy (man can he climb) and they added another pitch to it with what they called 5.11 ow !! Apparently getting to the top won't be possible on that line as it gets the consistency of sand castles.

 

Give me your e-mail address and I'll scan the slide of the boulder that had the V4 and send it to you. And the wall as well. I don't know how to download photos on this site without the photo already being online.

[wayne]

Can we have more than 5?

 

1. Solo of new York Gully

 

2.West ridge of Hunter direct start to 12k

 

3.DNB Bear mt.

 

4.DEB Early Wint Spire free

 

5.Juno-Clean Break

 

5 1/2.Goode EB

 

5 3/4.Inspiration ER and WR Macmillan

[cuz]

1) Mt Jefferson via Jeff Park glacier. Funnest alpine route I've ever done.

2) Monkey Face @ Smith, another fun climb and I got to lead most of it.

3) Annual So Side of Hood trip with da boyz in a blizzard from the top of Palmer all the way to the summit. Most other parties turned around but we kept going. Stupid, yes, but the images of everyone with a thick coating of rime ice on their facial hair made it worthwhile. It was a perfect day at the parking lot.

4) Ice climbing in Lilooet. This would probably be higher on my list if it hadn't been for a warming trend just before our trip.

5) First 5.9 lead

 

Biggest disappointments:

 

1) Didn't climb as much as I had wanted to

2) Turned around on a one day solo trip to Adams because I forgot my cramp-ons.

[Off_White]

1) NE Buttress on Dragontail swinging leads with my son Ben (in his first season leading) in a minor epic.

2) Five days in five areas this October around Bishop (CA) with old buddies.

3) Having a regular partner at home (the aforementioned Ben) and getting out cragging as often as 4 times in 3 days.

4) Rediscovering my love affair with Darrington.

5) Getting to put some faces to names at the Rope-Up, making friends, and doing a little climbing to boot.

 

Disappointments: Well, aside from the old "never enough" woes and not getting to lead a route after I bolted it, life's pretty damn good.

[salbrecher]

1.Rainier

2.First Trad lead (5.8)

3.Monarch Icfields Traverse

4.Baker in a day

5.White Rock to Golden Ears bike and hike bikeandbikethehikeandhikeathon(trip name)

I cant wait to see what next year holds!

[Lambone]

- Eldorado + Colchuck w/wife

- N.Ridge Stuart w/good friend, led both gendarm pitches

- More ticks in Cascade Classics- Prussik, Tooth, Town Crier, etc...

- Finaly getting on Ranier for the first time

- Finnaly getting off of Glacier Peak

- Finaly seeing, and climbing in the Canadian Rockies

 

Sorry...thats 6, but basicaly sums up my summer

[salbrecher]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Hmmm ...

 

- Red tape route on the lead wall

- Blue tape route on the RadWall

- Green & white tape boulder problem on the 45

- Black tape boulder problem back by the cave

- One-arm campusing up and down smallest rungs

 

Failures:

- Blew the on-sight at the last bolt

- Put hole in best tights when they snagged on a nubbin at Smith

- Broke copy of 'Rampage' due to excessive rewinding

---

Hey DFA I was reading climbing magazine the other day (it may have been an old issue) and there was an article on suposidly the second person to be able to do one arm campusing! Maybe your the third

[snoboy]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Winter:

quote:

---

1. Cranking first V4 problem

2. FA on a 5.10d trad line down in Oaxaca.

---

Let me get this right ... you just sent a v4 and your leading 10d trad? Perhaps I'm being trolled ... but what's up with that?

---

I don't get it Winter. Why is that inconsistent?

[slothrop]

:

 

- getting up Giant at Exit 38 w/no falls (on TR

- climbing with my brother and my girlfriend

- road trip to Squamish just after getting laid off

- Ingalls Peak North, E and S ridges

- scrambling up some random peak near Ingalls -- a fun bit of exploration on rotten rock and ice

- doing several fun alpine rock routes... I didn't think I'd do as much as I did (but it still wasn't enough!)

 

:

 

- having to spend time finding a job

- not making it far enough up the Middle Fork valley a few weeks ago to do some real exploring

- regular climbing pardner moved to east coast

[pope]

Wow....swell to see everybody has been taking it nice and easy. Did anybody climb anything hard?

[dberdinka]

With so many good memories it’s always hard to pick five.

 

1) Soloing the Direct East Buttress of South Early (Lots of anxiety until I actually got on it)

 

2) Soloing Prodigal Son in good style (Zion rules!)

 

3) Climbing Warbonnet in the Sawtooth Range (didn’t see anyone for 2 nights and almost 3 days)

 

4) Yellow Brick Road in Marble Canyon (excellent, fun climbing on an apparently big, scary wall. Just do it!)

 

5) King Fisher and Ancient Arts in the Fisher Towers (beautiful landscape & scary fixed gear)

 

6) Optimism to the South Buttress of Notch Top in RMNP (8 pitch, 5.10-). Maybe the best alpine rock climb I’ve ever done.

 

7,8,9,10,11.............

 

Sorry, 5 just wasn’t enough!

 

Biggest Defeat: Having to bail from the approach to the North Central Coulior of Joffre when my knee decided to get angry. I let my partner down, it sucked.

[Jim]

tele-sking Glacier Peak

 

leading Kor-Ingalls and North Chimmney on Castleton Tower

 

getting up 5.10c first time out after a 4 month layoff due to an injury.

 

trail run and summit up Mt. Forgotten

 

getting paid again to spend months in the outdoors (the worst field day is better than the best office day).

[bobinc]

Sorry to hear about the whipper on POD, Winter.

 

Let's see...

 

-- getting up some RRocks classics, including Ginger Cracks and POD, the latter on Dec 27 with hand warmers under the shoelaces

 

-- Stuart Ice Cliff Glacier in winter conditions (in June); perhaps this could also go under low-lights...

 

-- Lyman Glacier on Chiwawa in perfect weather

 

-- getting up some Yosemite and Josh Classics with an amenable rope gun doing most of the heavy lifting: Central Pillar of Frenzy, Serenity Crack, Bird of Fire, Exorcist, Diamond Dogs

 

Low light: working too much and not climbing enough

[Stefan]

I usually post a "best of" for my year. It is not a top five though....some of you have seen it....

 

Here's my best of....worst of.....climbing list for 2002!

 

Deepest Snow Conditions (tie): Barometer / Nasikelt (Snow was consistently up to the knees with snowshoes on)

Scariest: Meridian Hill (I ran into a man that was angry enough to shoot me!)

Longest road walk on snowshoes: Voodoo (It went on and on and on....)

Wettest: Sopa (Alton and I were soaked. Definitely one of my top's for being wet)

Best spring trip: Gardner/Shelokum (Conditions were excellent)

Hardest trip: Gabriel (I got my ass wupped by the North Cascades)

Most Confused descent: Trapper (What were we thinking?)

Worst bivy: North Hozomeen (At 5000' had mosquitos, too warm, no comfortable position...)

The traverse that never ended: Perdition Peak (It went on and on and on...)

Best Cascade View: Dome Peak (If you haven't done, do it.)

Best Trip with McKenna: Abercrombie (BIG views!)

Most invigorating climb: Dufourspitze (Switzerland) (Awesome views too!)

Most elevation gain in a day: Dom (Switzerland) (over 10,500 feet in a day!)

Best fall trip: Concord/Lexington/NEWS (In one day!)

Worst accident: Mount Temple (Thankful that I am here writing this to you today.)

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

quote:

---

Originally posted by salbrecher:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Hmmm ...

 

- Red tape route on the lead wall

- Blue tape route on the RadWall

- Green & white tape boulder problem on the 45

- Black tape boulder problem back by the cave

- One-arm campusing up and down smallest rungs

 

Failures:

- Blew the on-sight at the last bolt

- Put hole in best tights when they snagged on a nubbin at Smith

- Broke copy of 'Rampage' due to excessive rewinding

---

Hey DFA I was reading climbing magazine the other day (it may have been an old issue) and there was an article on suposidly the second person to be able to do one arm campusing! Maybe your the third

---

Caution: some items on the DFA Tick/Fail List may have been embellished somewhat to impress sponsors.

[Winter]

quote:

---

Originally posted by snoboy:

quote:

---

---

I don't get it Winter.

Why is that inconsistent?

---

Never mind. I think leading .10d trad is harder than bouldering v4 but what the hell do I know?

[Dru]

I have lead 10d trad but the hardest thing I ever bouldered was V2 and it was a slab. V4s are beyond my puny arm strength at the moment.

[sk]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Winter:

quote:

---

Originally posted by snoboy:

quote:

---

---

I don't get it Winter.

Why is that inconsistent?

---

Never mind. I think leading .10d trad is harder than bouldering v4 but what the hell do I know?

---

If you are talking about placing the gear and the possability of death and the height of the climb okay, maybe. But if you take the gear out of the deal, then what I understand is a V4 is something like a 5.12ish move as far as strength and sheeer power. but what the hell do I know, I can't even pull on a Vb

[Winter]

Huh .. interesting. I can send a v4 which is like .11+ (I thought) but haven't been able to get close to .10d trad, although I guess I haven't tried either. Maybe I'm just a trad pussy. Guess it looks like I'm just cut out for sport climbing and bouldering. Hey DFA, wanna go climbin'?

[Skisports]

Ptarmigan Ridge Rainier

NR of Stuart

NE face of bugaboo spire and

W Ridge of Pigien spire in moon light the same day

Murchison falls Canada

Serpetine arete Dragon tail

only a few off the top of my head

 

Disapointments

 

Price Glacier

Price Glacier

 

[ 11-20-2002, 01:05 PM: Message edited by: Skisports ]

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Winter:

Huh .. interesting. I can send a v4 which is like .11+ (I thought) but haven't been able to get close to .10d trad, although I guess I haven't tried either. Maybe I'm just a trad pussy. Guess it looks like I'm just cut out for sport climbing and bouldering. Hey DFA, wanna go climbin'?

---

Excellent, Winter! Trad climbing is slow, complicated, and boring. Let the Doctor know when you've traded in your trad gear for some sport acoutrements, and DFA will see you at the base of Churning for some hang-doggery and beta hollering.

[TimL]

1.)Finally climbing the North Ridge of Stuart

2.)Leading my first couple 5.12 cracks (Daily Planet)

3.)Leading my first 5.13 sport route Churning at Smith, thanks to RuMAR

4.)Leading my first WI 4 pitch on Icey BC

5.)Climbing countless routes and standing on many summits with good friends (you guys know who you are), climbing with new friends and having many fun times.

5a.)Narrowing down the Cascade tick list with Fred Rogers in his time of unemployment and my time of underemployment.

 

Dissapointments:

 

1.)Bailing off the Nose after 10 pitches. Round 2 next year.

2.)Not climbing North Ridge of Baker because we’re dorks

3.)Colchuck Balenced Rock. Round 2 next year

4.)Standing at the base of Clean Break, Juno Tower and not climbing it (thanks Wayne for dropping the rock on us…ha..ha)

 

Next year brings new challenges and old ones will present themselves in a different light.

 

 

[ 11-20-2002, 01:28 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]