Colin Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 Climb: Chiwawa Mtn.-NW Face Date of Climb: 3/6/2005 Trip Report: Dave Burdick and I climbed a new route on Chiwawa Mtn this past weekend, after spotting the awesome-looking line in John Scurlock's new pictures. On Saturday we snomobiled up the Chiwawa River Road (with a snowmobile generously lent by Phil), and then skied up the Chiwawa Basin Trail (lot's of dirt skiing involved). We woke up early yesterday and hiked up to the Chiwawa-Fortress col, and then made a descending traverse to the base of the NW Face. Our route climbed the very obvious gully/chimney in the center of the face, starting mostly on ice, and gradually becoming more mixed. The climbing was fantastic although hard, and the route was the best mixed climb I've ever done. Our last pitch bailed out of the chimney onto the face on the right, but if some strong mixed climbers head in there they'll probably do the direct finish. Dave had his digital camera, so I expect we'll see some pictures soon. Chiwawa Mtn, NW Face New Route: "Intravenous" - IV, WI4, M6. Gear Notes: Reccomended Gear: -60m rope -5 knifeblades -a few small nuts -cams up to #1 camalot -2 stubby, 2 17 cm screws Approach Notes: The Chiwawa River Road is starting to get bare, so snowmobiling won't be a good option soon. However, the route sees no sun, so it will probably be in for at least a few more weeks, and perhaps the road will be drivable by then. Quote
Colin Posted March 7, 2005 Author Posted March 7, 2005 John Scurlock's photo of the face. Our route in red, and the possible direct finish in green. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9735&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Quote
olyclimber Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 (edited) Way to go get it Colin and Dave! Which one of the the photos found here shows your line? Nevermind. Edited March 7, 2005 by olyclimber Quote
Dru Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 It looks like the route finding must have been really hard with such an inobvious line Quote
specialed Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 Shit Colin quit making us look like a bunch of slackers. What was the M6 pitch like? Whose lead was it? Quote
dberdinka Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 Looks freakin incredible, looking forward to pics. Caught up with school work yet? Quote
philfort Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 You guys cheated by using a snowmobile I only lent it to you so your ascent would not count! Quote
olyclimber Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 You guys cheated by using a snowmobile I only lent it to you so your ascent would not count! Quote
Colin Posted March 7, 2005 Author Posted March 7, 2005 I got the M6 pitch, and actually I have a suspicion that it would be more like M5 a lot of the time, depending on the conditions. What made it really hard was that the chimney walls were coated in about 0.5-1 inch of verglass - too thin to swing into, but totally coating-over all the holds. I did a lot of slow picking away at the verglass to uncover holds. As for getting caught up with school, well I'm not doing so hot in that respect. I just had a conference with my 'technical communication' professor: "Yeah, so I don't have my paper with me, I didn't get around to it." "Well, could I at least see your outline then?" "Hmmm... I didn't really get around to that yet either." "OK, let me see the sources you found." "Yeah, about that... Ummm..." Quote
klenke Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 Makes my party's FA (and FWA) this weekend look unworthy of submittal on CC.com. BTW, you forgot one key piece of equipment in your gear list: snowmobile. Quote
dberdinka Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 As for getting caught up with school, well I'm not doing so hot in that respect. They'll be offering the same class next year, and the year after that, and the year after....can't say the same about the ice conditions lately. Quote
Dru Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 Really, when you are 83 years old which are you going to remember - the climb you made the FA of, or the B+ you got in Advanced Basket Weaving Quote
Alpinfox Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 Really, when you are 83 years old which are you going to remember - the climb you made the FA of, or the B+ you got in Advanced Basket Weaving You are going to remember the girl in the red top you saw in the parking lot last weekend. You are going to talk about her incessantly. Then you are going to steal a bunch of napkins from McDonalds and walk around with your fly open. Quote
olyclimber Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 [quote You are going to remember the girl in the red top you saw in the parking lot last weekend. You are going to talk about her incessantly. Then you are going to steal a bunch of napkins from McDonalds and walk around with your fly open. You should write a Biography! Quote
dbb Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 I have to hand it to Colin, I didn't think it would go looking at it from the base. Colin's comment, "but it would be rad if it did" was right on! His lead of the crux chimney was the most impressive lead I've ever seen in the mountains. Here's a few pics: the route first pitch getting into the narrow slot. sometimes a true squeeze chimney with ice at the back the crux the pictures just don't do the crux justice. when I got to the bottom of it, it was dead vertical, nearly featureless, the exact width of my body and glass smooth on both sides! welcome to marchtemper! Definitely a fun route! Long day though, my alarm from sunday morning went off about 10 minutes after I fell asleep Thanks again Phil for the 'bile! Quote
Alpinfox Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 Damn that looks great! Good on you boys! Has this thing been climbed in summer? Who's gonna get the first SUMMER ascent? Quote
Marko Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 Holy crap! That thing looks amazing. You guys did us all proud! So... Quote
JoshK Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 Wow, sweet, really cool guys. That looks awesome! Were skis even nescessary at all? Seems with that little snow the remaining crap would be consolidated enuf. yes, no? Quote
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