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klenke

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  1. Trip: Lincoln Peak - The Emancipation Proclimbation - The Only Known Route Date: 6/28/2008 Trip Report: The EMANCIPATION PROCLIMBATION Whereas, on the twenty-second day of June, in the year of our Lord two thousand and eight, a proclimbation was issued by the president of the United States Orographical Society, containing, among other things, the following, to wit: “That on this twenty-eighth day of June, in the in the year of our Lord two thousand and eight, four persons enslaved by their mindset of climbing every worthy peak in sight within any State or designated part of a State, the climbers whereof shall then be in rebellion against the naysayers, shall be then, thenceforward, and forever free of the shackles of ineptitude; and the executive governance of the climbing society, including the authorities and wannabe authorities, will recognize and maintain the exaltation of such persons, and will speak no gossip or jealous flippancy, to repress such persons, or any of them, in any efforts they may make for their actual (or perceived) notoriety…” And blaaaah blaaaah blaaaah… Lincoln Peak (9080+F, 720P) is a member of the Washington Top 100 by 400 or more feet of prominence. By strange coincidence, just like Abraham Lincoln was the 16th President of the United States, Lincoln Peak is the 16th-highest peak in Washington on that list. Lincoln Peak was 86ed from the Bulger Top 100 probably because the original Bulger list makers (Lixvar and Plimpton) were too scared of it. They somewhat arbitrarily set 800 feet for the prominence cutoff for volcano sub-summits* (The so-called “John Wilkes Booth Proviso”). Did they choose 800 feet because it is 2 x 400? If they had chosen 700 feet, Lincoln would have been the beast of honor on the list. * In reality, Lincoln Peak is not a sub-summit of Mt. Baker because it was around long before Mt. Baker came into existence. It is more correct to say Mt. Baker (Grant Peak) is a child of the erstwhile andesite volcano of which Lincoln Peak is the remnant rim. And thus the Bulgers generally have avoided the mountain. After Fred Beckey’s first ascent in July 1956 with Wesley Grande, Herb Staley, and John Rupley, the climbing history of Lincoln is a bit vague. We would love to hear from you if you made an ascent.. We (now) know of six ascent parties after Beckey’s: Dallas Kloke and Scott Masonholder on July 6, 1975 [not written into register] John Roper, Silas Wild, Dick Kegel, and Reed Tindall on June 25, 1989 Dallas Kloke and Scott Bingen on August 1, 2000 [not written into register] Don Goodman and Juan Lira on June 8, 2003 Dave Creeden, Stefan Feller, Mike Torok, and Greg Koenig on June 25, 2006 Paul Klenke, Tom Sjolseth, Sean Martin, and Fay Pullen (first woman? at 65, the oldest person?) on June 28, 2008 Addenda (edited July 13) for updates... As of now (July 13, 2008), only five persons have completed the Washington Top 100 x 400P (Roper in 1991, Wild in 2007, Goodman in 2007, Pullen on July 9, 2008, and Creeden on July 13, 2008). Martin Shetter, he has only Lincoln Peak left. The reason the total is so low is precisely because of this stinkin’ Lincoln. Rewind to June 2007: After having finished the Bulger Top 100 in 2006, Fay Pullen was egged into attempting to complete the 400P Top 100 by John Roper. But in order to accomplish that, she would have to assassinate her fear of Lincoln Peak. And then there’s me. I have to say I had always feared it too. But my resolve was no less than hers because I too have completion of the 400P Top 100 in the sights of my peakbagging pistol. And, yes, Sjolseth has the same desire. Fast forward back to the present: So here came four of us to make another attempt (for Tom, his third attempt after he and Sean failed in May). After having been on a non-clmbing vacation in Italy for the first half of June, was I even going to be in shape to raise my peakbagging pistol and take aim at Lincoln. We parked at 3700 ft at the last drivable switchback after hacking away at slide alder leaning and stretching across the road. After this switchback the road bed has been put to rest. Stefan Feller in his trip report from 2006 said to avoid the road and go straight up the ridge to Pt. 4481. He spoke of horrendous alder that ate his Subway sandwich right off his pack and then chased it with his precious Deutschland climbing cap. Well we didn’t heed his warning. We walked the road. The first part before the first corner is bad but there is a respectable path blazed through it. Upon turning the corner (now onto the west side of the hill), we hit snow and thankfully so. For this snow was still matting down the alder. The road is shown to make a final switchback at 4100 feet. We didn’t take this switchback. Instead, a short spur led north to an end in a regrowth clearcut area. (This logged area abuts right up to the Wilderness boundary!) With the snowcover, we were able to easily walk through the regrowth to get to the bigger forest beyond. We angled up and over to the little lakes at 5100 feet (still snow covered, except for a small, icy pool). We angled NW across the basin to the far end then turned right (ENE) and more or less followed the broadening divide between Rankin Creek and Wallace Creek. At ~6100 ft on the far side of a little moraine we made camp. Time = 2 hrs, 45 minutes from the car. We awoke early in the morning and were heading out just after 3:00am. In about an hour-and-a-half we reached the first difficulty: the lower bergschrund. Tom led up through the schrund at about its middle. We then angled up and left on 40-degree snow to get to a large rock island I call “the pillbox.” There is a snow arête that stretches a 100 yards uphill from this rock island. The arête divides two high-angle drainage basins, the one on the left being funnel shaped. It is necessary to ascend to near the apex of the arête to where it is feasible to get off of it to the left and commence a horizontal traverse (on ~45-degree snow) left to the steep, narrow gully coming down from the left. A second, but lesser schrund guards entrance to this gully. Sean led over to the rock outcrop at the left entrance to the gully below the schrund. He climbed Class 4 rock (with crampons) to a sturdy anchor (an anchor we had used in past attempts). We belayed each other up. Tom then set out up the steep gully (~55 degrees at its worst), which was in good condition (some soft snow and some weak ice, but for the most part nice Styrofoam—especially when climbing up the scoured snow runnel. The top of the gully fans out into a snow slope. The snow on this slope was very rotten and certainly would not hold a picket. Tom belayed Sean up to the left while I continued to the right to reach the sometimes wicked arête that marks the boundary between two different master gullies of the peak. The exposure is already bad leading up to the arête but the other side is twice as steep. From this point you can see the final, narrow gully that leads to the ridge crest just left of the summit. I used an old picket from May’s failure (one of six old pickets found on the route this weekend) to bury a deadman before rolling leftward off the arête and onto 60-degree snow for about 70 feet to a small rock island and a horn thence to a bigger rock island and a bigger horn. From here it is only about three pitches of steep snow to the top. There isn’t much in the way of cracks on the walls in this gully. There isn’t much in the way of cracks on the entire mountain, for that matter. The rock is like reddened concrete with big, round nodules in it. It’s actually fairly solid but quite unprotectable. Rather than waste time setting intermediate deadmen pickets, with the exception of one good cam and a horn, I simply ran out full 60m rope lengths for the final two pitches. I belayed Fay up from the summit and Tom did the same for Sean. Time from camp = 9 hours including breaks. We hung out the summit for a good two hours waiting for Scurlock to drop us a six-pack. We saw plenty of planes flitting about but not one was the telltale bright yellow. There were plenty of flea-like specks on Mt. Baker. And there were plenty of views all around. The atmosphere was very clear. Even Mt. Olympus was visible. Seward Peak: Descent We rappelled our up-route all the way down to the rock outcrop at the entrance to the steep gully. We had strategically left the up-climb deadmen in the snow for use on the way down. There were some close calls with us moving out of the way of rockfall and/or sluffalanches but for the most part things went smoothly. Of course the double rappels came with plenty of rat’s nests. Only one rappel was sketchy/awkward/intimidating (whatever you want to call it) and this was the one to get back over the upper snow arête. This was an angling rappel where a pendulum was a distinct possibility. The rappel was further complicated by the fact that on the way up Fay had to simulclimb from the arête deadman with me for 20 feet in order for me to get to the horn. This meant a double-60 rappel would be just short of reaching that deadman. This really wasn’t a problem: I just had to dig a new deadman above the out-of-reach one. When we got back to the steep gully, we were all surprised how quickly it had melted out in sections. It seemed like the mountain had gotten “out of shape to climb” as we were climbing it. What's different in these photos? For the final rappels to get back to safety, we opted to go straight down the funnel instead of traversing back skier’s left to the lower schrund. At the top of the last rappel. Over the edge is the maw... In the remaining rays of daylight we did our last rappel… The Last Rappel Now I think all four of us would agree this was one of the most memorable rappels we had ever done. I will attempt to describe my experience of it… It was nearly dark. It was like rappelling into the maw of death…with the tears of Nancy Hanks pitter-pattering in a cacophonous clatter on my helmet. 80 feet of free rappel seemed to go on forever as I slid past curtains of frozen tears. At the last second I stepped right to avoid being swallowed down the hole in the snow. The Next Day We hiked out. We left Seward Peak for another day. Trivia: William Seward was Abraham Lincoln’s Secretary of State. Schuyler Colfax was Ulysses S. Grant’s Vice President. And of course, Grant Peak is the summit of Mt. Baker. Thanks for keeping us honest, Abe. The Route Question This peak ranks right up at the top as being the hardest summit to attain in Washington by its easiest route. What are some other WA peaks that might be harder? I’ll give away a five dollar bill for the best answer. Gear Notes: Twin 60m ropes Ice axe (maybe two) Crampons An assortment of cams and nuts (maybe 10 total pieces) Approach Notes: Take the Middle Fork Nooksack River Road (FR-38) to its end where it turns uphill and makes several switchbacks up the slope southeast of Rankin Creek. The switchbacking portion of road has got some big berms and a bit of brush up to the 3,400-ft level. The next half-mile to 3,700 ft is overgrown but drivable by a 4WD whose paint job you wouldn't care about scratching all to hell. After the switchback at 3,700 ft the road has been decommissioned. Note: the Middle Fork Nooksack Road (FR-38) is supposedly gated until June 15 at Wallace Creek (there is a gate there) about 5 miles from roads end. But when Tom & Sean and Mike went in there in May the gate was open.
  2. Boston Peak -- How bad is it?

    I did two raps with a 50. But that doesn't mean it can't be done with a 30. You could even downclimb it, if you wanted. But who likes to downclimb loose Class 4 sh*t? Edit: now that I remember, on the second rap the rope was being restrained up above somehow. I tugged and tugged and almost brought down the whole mountain with the rope. If I had kept up at it, I might have removed enough mountain to take it off the Top 100 list.
  3. Boston Peak -- How bad is it?

    What Pete said.
  4. Heat vs. Sonics (Thunder)

    That man is possessed. Look at him.
  5. Heat vs. Sonics (Thunder)

    Today was a good day for Seattle.
  6. The 3.2 Million Dollar Outhouse

    Translation: "Trust us. We're the government. We know what we're doing."
  7. The 3.2 Million Dollar Outhouse

    Well with that kind of logic I guess it makes sense...to you. How come no one has made reference parallels to those ridiculous toilets they put in Pioneer Square then removed? http//www.katu.com/home/video/4560662.html http://mynorthwest.com/?nid=189&sid=56505 A $10 Million shelter from the cold for Seattle's "finest" for four years. And by finest I'm not referring to the Seattle Police.
  8. The 3.2 Million Dollar Outhouse

    "its probably cheaper than the bathrooms in your house." Explain that one to me, Hoss.
  9. Red Dwarf

    Life would be great. Unless Cascadeclimbers were there. Then it would suck.
  10. Washington's Most Difficult Peaks

    Other possibilities since I'm not clear on the criteria: Southwest Peak of Hozomeen Mountain East Peak of Fifes Peaks The Flagpole (Annapurna) Pole of Remoteness Assassin Spire Seahpo Peak ...Sherpa Balanced Rock ...The Dome in the crater of Mt. St. Helens
  11. First Ascent of the White Chick “White Chick” (Pk 5884 southeast of White Chuck Mountain) May 21, 2011 Personnel: Paul Klenke, Stefan Feller, Martin Shetter, and Fay Pullen (the token white chick). Stefan says he likes my trip reports because I always put in so much detail. Well for this report, I’m not gonna. Why? Becuase I’m a busy family man. Plus, I’m 40 now, so I’m old(er), and stupid(er), and out-of-shape®. Here are some views of White Chick, the rocky bump to the right of White Chuck: [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/79240.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/96702.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/186265.jpg[/img] We met in Seattle at 4:45am, which is usually REM time for me, not RPM time. So motoring to the Park ‘n Ride was a catatonic affair. But there they were, the OTHERS, waiting for me, already there, already laughing about something. Anyway, Stefan drove to the “trailhead.” Well first he drove to the Darrington gas station (I know it well, as do you) so I could purchase an energy drink. What? Two for one? I’m all over that like crappy snow on a Cascades ski resort. Here is White Chick from the bridge over the river: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/599x401xWChi01_fr_river_bridge_I_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.AsoHnu-gmb.jpg[/img] We started at 6:45 on the overgrown logging road at the head of Dan Creek (elevation 1970 ft). The first obstacle was Black Oak Creek where the bridge had either slumped and disappeared or had been removed. All that remains is a large rusted girder and very steep banks. The Black Oak Creek washout (the banks are steeper than they look): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi03_Black_Oak_Cr_washout_I_sm.JPG[/img] After this creek that reminds me of a Soundgarden song, we walked the remaining three miles of mossy road eastward and upward. The annoying windfall decreased, but the annoying snow cover increased (plod plod plod). At 3400 feet we came to the end of the roadway at a spur ending in a regrowing clearcut. We avoided this wetness and arced around it through nice old growth (some big trees here). The old road: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi04_old_logging_road_sm.JPG[/img] Stefan and I descended steep duff a couple of hundred vertical into the big gully beyond the last clearcut. But Martin and Fay pullened it and took the ridge upward paralleling the west side of the gully. They essentially got cliffed out while Stefan and I easily ascended the avalanche debris escalator to approximately 4000 ft. We only lost about 20 minutes waiting for them. A view of the big gully (my wife said the snow fooled her into thinking it was a white-water torrent): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi05_the_big_gully_I_sm.JPG[/img] The cliffy west side of the gully at 4000 ft (Stefan's in this photo; he pulled his pants up just in time…): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi09_north_side_of_gully_sm.JPG[/img] That mountain whose name I forget as seen from the big gully: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi08_Forgotten_fr_gully34_sm.JPG[/img] I took off to break trail up and right from the gully, traversing more rightward than upward to avoid the likely cliffs obliquely abutting the gully. Since I’m old(er) and fat(ter), Stefan eventually caught up to me and finished the remainder of the slog up to the base of the rocks, which finally opened up to us at 5300 ft. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi10_Stefan_at_5300_ft_sm.JPG[/img] A view of the northwest side of the summit rocks (this is about as good as the views got on this day): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi11_at_5400_ft_sm.JPG[/img] I took a brief second shot at kicking steps before motorfoot stomped past me. We took a snowy gully rightward from the left side of the rocky corner until the gully headed at short cliffs. A steep 55-degree snow chute got us up over a minor spur to the next gully over. We took this adjacent gully up a tad then left up a straight “Triple Couloirs-esque” gully to very nearly its col looking over the East Face. The cornice at the col notch was too much to approach comfortably, so Stefan exited right to continue up through short trees and minor rocks. Looking down the straight gully from the notch: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi22_final_gully_near_top_sm.JPG[/img] He got up to a rocky knoll a hundred or so yards from the summit and waited for me to catch up. He thought that belaying the final corniced ridge was the wise thing to do and I concurred. The climbing wouldn’t be technical but no one likes to do cornice tobogganing. The rocks abutting the cornice were wet and sloped and not conducive to walking over. Stefan took the lead up and I followed, dragging Martin and Fay’s second rope. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi21_final_ridge_IV_sm.JPG[/img] I made it up and immediately planked the summit (there was photographic evidence but Stefan erroneously deleted it because of its poor quality—the photograph, not the plank move). Stefan struggling to belay the token white chick. She’s sooo heavy! [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi15_Stefan_at_top_III_sm.JPG[/img] Fay at the summit (in nice weather White Chuck Mountain would have been looming behind the white chick in this photo): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi16_Fay_at_top_sm.JPG[/img] Martin: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/599x401xWChi17_Martin_at_top_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.1rbJxq2NUE.jpg[/img] I placed a Fay Pullen Special at the summit and built a cairn. This cairn kept falling over. I must suck at building cairns. Paul (no we weren’t all sharing the same jacket): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/600x450xWChi18_Paul_at_top_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.NJFZ1gBfzX.jpg[/img] It had taken 5.5 hours to get up. Approximately 4.5 miles and 4000 ft of gain. We had taken not a single break and I only took my pack off once to put a jacket on. That’s not bad. Maybe I’m not as out-of-shape-and-fat-and-older as I thought. The token white chick in her element (w/o skis on!): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi23_Fay_at_4200_ft_sm.JPG[/img] We returned the way we came, glissading the big gully (that went quick!). The road walk back seemed longer on the way out (but isn’t that always how it seems?). 9.5 hours round trip. Our route: [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi01_fr_river_bridge_I_anno.JPG[/img] [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi02_fr_river_bridge_II_anno.JPG[/img] Our GPS Track courtesy of Fay: [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/White_Chick_Route_Fay_Pullen.JPG[/img] A comment on the weather, though it wasn’t bad (we were only blemished by light rain), remember that we had superb weather only the day before. And so it goes in Washington. Due to the weather, the conditions were cloudy and a white out most of the day. White Chuck Mountain made a brief appearance from the belay knoll and I took too long to photograph it. Drat! It would have shown the mountain from a previously unseen angle…if this truly was a first ascent. We think it was. Prove it if it wasn't. Epilogue So we’re at the car and Stefan breaks out a wrinkled dress shirt and suit and puts them on. Then he puts on a tie. Now, I’ve never seen him wear a tie before—and especially at a trailhead. This is most peculiar. He had said he had a memorial service to attend to in Ballard. Oooo-kay. Stefan in a “birthday” suit... In reality… He was just trying to throw me off (and he did). In reality there was a surprise 40th Birthday Party waiting for me back at the house. I opened the garage door with the opener as I’m backing my car in and the first things I see are a whole bunch of legs and then I realize for sure the thing I suspected might happen really is happening. I had a great time that night, so great in fact, that I did not go to bed until 4:00am—fully 24 hours after I got up. But I was only 39 years, 363 days old then. I’m 40 now and probably couldn’t handle that now. I am older, stupider, out-of-shaper, and weaker now. Gear Notes: Ice axe, safety rope for cornice adventures, suit and tie. Approach Notes: I don't know that this climb would be easier without snow. Steep duffy ground in the trees and then perhaps mossy rocks or steep heather higher up.
  12. climate activist on trial.

    Sigh. Some things never change.
  13. climate activist on trial.

    Please try to stay on topic, prole. Oh wait, this is Cascadeslimers. Nevermind.
  14. climate activist on trial.

    This thread did make me wonder, cuz I never wondered before about it, what the penalty is, in general with your more common auctions, for making false bids that you have no intention of paying for should you win. I imagine at ordinary auctions, if you win a bid but then don't pay for the goods you just won, then A) said item gets put back in the auction hopper at the annoyance of those you outbid thus wasting their time, B) you are banned from bidding at that house and possibly other houses that catch wind of your act. Now for this particular bid this guy got busted for, it was a federal auction so I guess they have more stringent laws (the article didn't seem to note what law was actually broken, or did I miss something?).
  15. climate activist on trial.

    Neither.
  16. Today "snaffle" was the Webster's Word of the Day. Maybe Beckey coined snafflehound himself way back in the 16th Century. I'm still waiting for Webster's to feature "horsecock' for the Word of the Day. snaffle\SNAFF-ul\ verb : to obtain especially by devious or irregular means Jacob snaffled up the last cookie, leaving his sister none. "Started on Tyneside in the late 1930s, the chain has expanded by snaffling up other bakeries…." — From an article by Will Self in the New Statesman, December 13, 2010 "That snafflehound took off with my wind shirt and shorts over poly-pro last night in camp. That rat bastard." --Dru, aka G-spotter, August 30, 2010. The origins of "snaffle" are shrouded in mystery. What we know of its story begins in the 16th century — at that time, "snaffle" existed as both a noun referring to a simple bit for a horse's bridle and a verb meaning "to fit or equip with a snaffle" or "to restrain or check with or as if with a snaffle." The noun could be from an old German word for mouth, "snavel," but the connection has not been confirmed. The "obtain" meaning of the verb appeared in the early 18th century, and its origins are similarly elusive. A 1699 dictionary entered "snaffle" with the definition "a Highwayman that has got Booty" — that's a logical derivative of the verb, but it is also unconfirmed.
  17. Alaskan Winter Ale

    Alaskan Winter Ale: 'tis good. I've bought two sixers already. Funny about Chartreuse: my one-year-old got into the liquor cabinet yesterday. And what did he pull out? The Chartreuse. The boy's got a taste for specialty liquors, even if he's never tasted them. Some cabinet baby safety locks suck, by the way. If they are strong enough to keep my baby out they're strong enough to annoy me when I want to go in there. Why can't babies just learn the meaning of "no?"
  18. Re: REI, U can't handle the truth

    And where, pray tell, do you think your needle pointed on the slacker-o-meter, Lucky Larry? 20 percent of the people do 80% of the work, and the rest just bitch about all of the "work" they are doing. That's my take on the old adage. I should know. I'm a sl-sll-sll-acker myself.
  19. Felix Navidad! - Prole Zim and Oly!

    The Mariners' investment strategy seems to reflect mine: buy high, sell low. Rob Johnson's stock can only rise now if he hit just .191 last year. Or he'll be out of the game (liquidated, so to speak) in a couple of years. Too many balls got past that guy, whether he was holding a bat or wearing a glove.
  20. J_B's man down South!

    Holy shit, j_b! For a "man of the people" you sure do vomit out a lot of vitriol (but you're not the only one). Every time you call someone a fuckwit or any other curse words, you're really just degrading yourself and the strength that your opinion might otherwise have, which is too bad, because I really would like to give you the benefit of the doubt in many instances. Rise above. In character, rise above the taunting or coercion to curse from those that stand on the other side of the political fence. Let them degrade themselves; don't degrade yourself. For all your differences with "your evil homonym," he at least does not resort to foul language to get his point across (not that I've ever seen, anyway). PS I'm a moderate. PPS Unlike a lot of you folks that hang out all day in Spray (don't try to deny your addictions), I don't have time for Spray or even CC.com all day, and sometimes not at any time in a day. There was a time when I was around a lot, but not anymore. As such, I don't have time or desire to surf around Spray to find any of your previous discussions espousing your opinions. And so I might ask for it anew within the context of the thread at hand.
  21. J_B's man down South!

    I'd like to know j_b's opinion on Mr. Chavez and the direction Venezuela is heading so we can have it here for the record. Instead of him saying a whole lot of nothing (about the subject at hand) in this thread, how about he says something of substance?
  22. Where are your Dan Howittaboutthat split times, ChumpChaser?
  23. Uh, doesn't this trip report belong in the Fake Climbing Forum? Who's going to be the first to send that overhung alcove with the gargantuan chockstone? I don't think any of us have hard enough cores. Better notify the girlie boys and boyish girlies over at RC.com. Ivan: Don't be jealous of my Fawn Peak FKT.
  24. An aside: per usual CC.com custom, some folks have made irrelevant and unnecessary comments into this thread and therefore cluttered it. Sobo: We could care less about your day. May I suggest Facebook. ~~~~~~~~~~~ I'd say if you can follow 5.10 you should be okay with the rock climbing on the buttress. Although, if you're not used to lichen on rock, you may find the climbing disconcerting at times. One nice thing is the presence of snow patches and the snowfield on its upper portion indicates water would be available year-round. As for where it would be best to get on the buttress, it appears to me (based on the second-to-last pic above) that the south side of it next to the glacier would be variegated terrain: some loose ledges and gullies bracketed by rock steps and minor rock ribs. It would probably not be all that interesting but would go. You might have moat issues where the snow next to the glacier reaches high up on the rock wall. A more sporting route for a 5.10-capable climber might be to try to get on the buttress from its north side (see last picture above). But there is a cirque headwall (for the Wyeth Glacier) that makes getting up to that side a little more problematic. Maybe a good starting point would be near the two Y-shaped snowpathes at the extreme bottom edge of the photo. Per Beckey, the "North Face" has been climbed. It was first done by Dick Emerson and Walt Gove in July 1978. Their climb was actually on the buttress south of your proposed buttress. I know of no other climbs of the North Face so yours would likely be a first ascent of that buttress (strawman comment). You can provide your details to Beckey and he'll get you in the next edition of his guidebook. Then you'll be famous (in case you already aren't). Regarding marrying a lawyer: I won't hold that against you, even if I am an engineer, because I once dated one.
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