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Dru

Smith "Great Roof" Free at 14b?

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Fresh off 8a.nu

 

Beth Rodden has redpointed what could be the hardest female first ascent in the U.S. and perhaps the world? She redpointed an old aid climb called the Great Roof at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon. Our source says he "heard that she rated it 14b". Tommy Caldwell was also working it and was unable to do it.

 

DFA she stole your project, dude! tongue.gif

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Not before I took a swing on that giant swing set they had set up there! I tried to steal the first draw too, but it was some old manky petzl thing.

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Thats cool shit! We were up there on Sunday climbing, and saw these people jugging lines. We figured it was some locals who had fixed the A3 pitch, and were finishing the line. THEN, it dawns on us that the super-stars in town might be trying to free that som-bitch. That Roof is HUGE. Great position for sure. There is a picture of it on Smithrock.com under Ryan Lawson.

hellno3d.gif "The last great crack waiting a free ascent in Smith Rock"per alan Watts.

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Now my copy of the "new Smith Rock Guide" is out of date.

If only Alan had waited 6 more months instead of rushing to print last spring, he would have had some impressive trad ascents (this and Sonnie on east monkey Face)in the book!

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Rather ironic that the cover of the new guide book is taken from the base of the great roof.

 

isbn_guide.jpg

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They are selling it at the climbing store by the granite crag in Renton.

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Where is the Great Roof?

It just so happens that I have the guide book at work. rolleyes.gif

 

Brogan Spire - North Face 5.6 A3

Smiths last great crack prbolem still awaits a free ascent. despite excellent quallity rock the inconvient location deters any attempts teh enitire route might go free, as the second pitch cuts around teh roof rather than pullin over it. Start below the obvius seam extending down from a large roof, midway along the north wall.

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I watched it on Sunday when I was supposed to be spotting MtnHigh on Thin Air. Pretty cool shit. They were whooping it up like kids over there.

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"They were whooping it up like kids over there."

 

Um, they are kids...kids that rock.

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I talked to my buddy Tim this morning as he has had a rope hung on it for a while now trying to work out the moves. He said that it is insanely hard and since the crack was bolted so early on, the pin scars are shallow, thin, and flared. Without really small fingers, it seems damn near impossible for the climbers of today. Beth's fingers are smaller than Tommy's hence the ascent. Not that it is easy by any means. My buddy Tim was only able to get up the first 20 feet of it. Could be like Lynn Hill on the Nose with other hardmen struggling to free it becasue of pin scar size? It was really good to see all the bad ass climbers out at Smith recently. Sonnie Trotter, Beth and Tommy, SHarma, and plenty of others have all been in the area, proving that Smith has some of the best climbs for the grade this time of year. Also heard that some of the hardmen couldn't finish another .14a in the area, showing that Smith shows solid climbing grades. Plus, you can't beat the views!

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Holy sh*t your buddy Tim must be friggen sweet how many pullups can he do and etc

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Hey let's go nail it and widen all the pin scars so the free rating drops down to 11c. wink.gif

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CC and I noticed a group of people over at the Great Roof on Monday. After reading the route description I figured they were working on freeing it. Now I wish I'd gotten a closer look.

 

Here's the photo skyclimb mentioned:

 

brogan.jpg

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Holy sh*t your buddy Tim must be friggen sweet how many pullups can he do and etc

 

Oh of COURSE he was spraying; of COURSE he was name-dropping. Why else would he talk about such things?

 

 

PS: Is your self-esteem really this weak? Stick to Asteroids, friend! It's making a comeback....

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naah way man, i'm FAT!!! Whopping 135 now...i've got to get down to 55 kg for wrestling though!!

 

screw climbing!!

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Thanks for the heads-up on Asteroids. You seem to have your finger on the pulse of the gaming world, and you pass that gift on to us.

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"us" ain't seein my gifts as gifts, sir, although I appreciate the sentiment (you know the level of gaming discourse around here madgo_ron.gif).

 

Have you been practicing, though? Check this out:

 

Pyramid sets: 1 minute level 10, 2 minutes level 10, up to ten minutes, then back to 1 again.

 

(And no fair hunting! This does nothing for your agility, which is really what you're tested on at the tournament.)

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