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Everything posted by Gordonb

  1. Smith "Great Roof" Free at 14b?

    Where is the Great Roof?
  2. Climbing near Palm Springs?

    j-tree is great. We loved it, but we roasted in April. I can't imagine it in August.
  3. gapertimmy needs you!

    Who do you expect to find for less than 3k a month? I would love to work a bachy, but that is less than 36k a year!
  4. Canada access for those that have been rejected

    Nope this is statewide. The new guidelines went into effect sometime in July. That is why my wife is compiling the judges bench book.
  5. Canada access for those that have been rejected

    Actually you don't even need an lawyer anymore. They are trying to promote deffered sentences. If it is your first offense and you plead guily it is pretty much automatic. And yes it does go on your record.
  6. Canada access for those that have been rejected

    pursuant to RCW 46.61.502(5), Driving Under the Influence "is a gross misdemeanor." And no, most first time offenders are not offered differed prosecutions. Unless they have a good lawyer, of course. Actually, if you agree to a breath test if offered and are under about .15 you can request a deferred setence. You will need to have an ignition interlock in your car, admit you have a substance abuse problem and attend substance abuse counseling. but it is possible. The rules have changed this summer. My wife is writing up the bench book for sentencing guidelines for Washington state this summer and it should be in the hands of your favorite judge by this fall. The best thing to do under the current law (if you arn't too wasted) is to agree to everything, admit you have a problem and go deffered. You are pretty much garenteed to get off, albeit with several hundred $ of new electronics in your car and the prospect of not ever drinking again.
  7. Sexual Harassment

    We could discuss JOEBIALEK's post, but as far as I can tell it is just a tall tale. He doesn't post any verifible facts, just a bunch of hype to get people riled up. My experience is opposite to his claimed facts. Women in the workplace seem to be dressing more conservativly than 15 years ago (for the most part, there are always exceptions). Sexual harassment claims are handled calmly and fairly. I have never had to, or seen, anyone disiplined for sexual harassment. I have seen people cautioned, but that is no big deal. As far as I can tell JOEBIALEK is just hyping a bunch of made up facts to get reactions. A very right wing thing to do.
  8. The death penalty...

    I would be for the death penalty if it could be done switfly and accuratly. The reality is everyone gets an appeal by default. With a little fight they can delay for many years. Then 10 to 15 years later they get another moment in the spotlight when they are executed. Their crimes are often rehashed and, to some, glamorized. In the current situation I think the best course of action is to lock them up and let the public and press forget about them. No more hogging the spotlight many years after the crime. It is also cheaper.
  9. The death penalty...

    bestiality? Well that would wipe out most of this board. BTW what ever happened to Trask?
  10. European Climbing Areas

    Has anyone done le Verdon? We were looking at that for next spring. We are 10a sport climbers maybe 5.8 trad. Are there good 1 to 2 pitch sport routes? We loved Railay Thailand this year and may go back there instead, but we would like to get back to France. We have done some boldering at Fontainbleau and loved it, but we are more into sport now.
  11. WTF? More LR trouble

    man this year is bad.http://www.king5.com/topstories/stories/NW_061704WABrainierclimbersKC.27131e407.html
  12. new gym in sodo?

    cool, but will you honor VW memberships?
  13. new gym in sodo?

    I want them to open one in Tacoma! I live in Federal Way and it is a long drive to Magnolia. I work in Fremont, so that helps. More gyms in the south end would help me get the family climbing more.
  14. Access warning

    I KNOW THE ACT! It is being regularly ignored. If they want to enforce the drilled anchor ban then we need to call bulshit on their use of power equipment to create trails for pedistrians. The creation of trail by the use of power equipment is justified by the ACT. But that doesn't stop them. They are placating the trail crews who don't want to do everything by hand.
  15. Access warning

    I KNOW THE ACT! It is being regularly ignored. If they want to enforce the drilled anchor ban then we need to call bulshit on their use of power equipment to create trails for pedistrians.
  16. Access warning

    they use chain saws to create trails that are far more damaging to the wilderness than power drills are to the rocks. You can say they are not allowed, but they are at least completly ignored by the land managers.
  17. Access warning

    The Wilderness rules are already broken with the Rangers explicit permission already! The trail crews take chain saws into the wilderness to cut trails. My dad is on trail crew and those old farts haul the chain saws and get helicopter support all the time to create trails. That is much more damaging that someone drilling some bolts. Many Wilderness areas also have roads leading into the boundries of the park. Wilderness areas need to be truely wilderness areas. Banning a bolts then paving a road into the park is bullshit. Bolted routes are lower impact than most trails let alone roads.
  18. Access warning

    Ok Pope, I understand your argument, but you have the "unwashed masses" invading our playground. I am old enough to remember when the back country was pristine and you could go weeks without seeing anyone. Bolt trails are not the answer, I agree. Bolts need to be limited, but they need to be accepted. How are we going to accomodate the crowds? They are comming, you can either accept it and manage it, or have it destroy what has been built. Ignoring it is not a viable option.
  19. Access warning

    I am willing to listen, but every anti-bolt fanatic comes back to a version of "that is now how the route was established". I will admit that some places are over bolted. But pulling bolts at Smith? That is already a bolt garden. It is not a pristine wilderness area, if you don't want to clip the bolts, don't. Same thing at Vantage. What would you rather see in the wilderness? Slings from every belay or repel point, or some bolts and hangers. It is hard to see bolts and hangers from any distance, especially if they are painted so they aren't shiney. Whenever I have been climbing in whilderness areas the belay points have been slung with webbing making it look like a christmas tree, because you don't want to put in nice hidden bolts. Not low impact. Not putting in bolts in the interest of keeping people out of the area is a really stupid idea. If you want to keep bolt clippers out of the wilderness put up more bolted areas. Exit 38, Vantage, Smith, put up more routes to satisfy the crowds and they will draw the bolt clippers and keep the other areas clear. What is your real motivation? Keeping the "unwashed masses" out of your playground? That is the way I have been reading this thread. People have rushed to climbing. If you don't accomodate them they will overrun the traditional areas. Banning bolts will just make more people take up trad climbing and the destruction of the apporach and base areas will make bolts look like nothing. You can't pretend it is 1950 anymore. How are you going to accomodate them? Banning bolts is not the solution. It is a short term bandaid.
  20. Access warning

    100 years ago they wern't using cars to get to the mountains either. So to be "True" to the spirit of the first explorers you shouln't be using cars to get to the mountains. Plus synthentic ropes are out. The also are not in the "Spirit". Oh and climbing shoes definitly out. Forget SLCD's or modern nuts. You anti bolt fanatics are so full of shit. If you want to be like the first climbers, you need to climb like the first climbers. Either accept the advances or live without all of them. Picking and choosing is hypocritical.
  21. just got airline ticket

    just getting to lake of the angels is pushing class 3. My wife still (after 18 years) gives me shit about the "headwall". I have never gone over to Lena, but my parents have and it sounded like close to class 4. I have gone over to hagen lake, which is much nicer than lena IMNSHO. That traverse is low class 4, high 3. Plus you can tag Mt Stone on the way. Great hike, I highly recommend it. The chance of death is very low.
  22. apartments are a scam

    That is true, you get about 1/4 back in taxes (depending on your tax bracket). It is not free money, but when you look at the bill, it isn't as bad as it seems. They are "fully deductible" but that doesn't mean you get all of it back, it just takes that much money off your adjusted gross income. We have done really well with home ownership. We have had 3 houses in the last 20 years and have upgraded quite well. The sacrafice was that we lived several years on the very edge were we couldn't afford gas to go camping gear let alone climbing gear. I have friends complaining about the cost of getting into the housing market. It is hard to feel sorry when they are unwilling to give up their travel and lattes and actually put some money away to do it. It is a mind set. If you want to live a free and for-the-moment lifestyle, renting is great. you have the cash to do stuff. It is a great way to live for some people and I did it for a while and liked it. But the accumilation of assets is a nice safety net. Owning a house is, except for the worst of markets, a break even prospect compared to renting. With a little patience it is usually quite profitible. As far as I am concerned, owning a home is the easiest way to free money that I know about. You just have to come up with the chunk of cash to get into the game.
  23. apartments are a scam

    Uh - wrong. Average KingCounty House Sale Price from above link: 1980 - $81511 1990 - $169202 (108% increase) 1995 - $183700 (9% increase) 2000 - $315300 (72% increase - in five years!) 2002 - $339200 (8% increase) I'm not saying a home isn't a good investment. It can be. It's just not the surefire investment that everyone seems to think they are nowadays - and when everyone thinks something is a really good investment, odds are it isn't. Are you being just dense on purpose? What that doesn't show is that house prices were fairly flat from 1980 to 1985 so that 108% is closer to 100% in 5 years. I remember the bidding wars of the late 80's. That is why the '90 to '95 growth is flat. House prices had gone up so much that they had to make a correction. Yes there are times when home ownership is less profitable than others, but if you can afford the entry price, it almost always beats renting.
  24. apartments are a scam

    We bought our first house in '86 and it more than doubled by the time we sold it in '93. House prices in Seattle have gone through many increases over the last 25 to 30 years. the last 6 years are actually slower growth than other times.
  25. Another Liberty Ridge Accident.

    they always seem to pull everyone they can off even if they aren't injured. for example last time the guy wasn't injured and they still plucked him off the next morning. I think they just want to get everyone out of there as long as they have the choppers in the air.