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Illini

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Everything posted by Illini

  1. Two years ago I listened to a presentation by the Professor and his student that first theorized this. If I remember right they were taking water samples in streams and measuring sulfate levels. They were trying to find unknown hot springs. The level and pervasiveness of the sulfate levels led them to hypothesis that there was actually a large up welling of magma coming into contact with ground water. They were scoffed at untill another pass by a satillite with ground scanning radar proved the change in elevation.
  2. I have one of these stoves from Trangia, I fill it with HEET which if you look for at the right price is about $1 per 12 oz. You can find it in just about any gas station between the NW and the Midwest. Because it is so redaily avalible and considering how often I use this stove it is more practical for me than buying a gallon on methanol I store the fuel in a small red nalgene bottle that is made to store solvents and has a small pour spout located in the bottle mouth. I thought about making one from a pop can but I did not want to worry about crushing it all the time. Although I now work in a chemistry lab and I have access to pure ethanol. One for me! One for the Stove! One for me! .... (FYI dont drink pure ethanol as it contains some impurities in the form of benzene. Stick with the 90% for drinking!)
  3. http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,3604,1552233,00.html You suck at html.
  4. Pitches 3 (runout oatmeal) 4 (short 5.10) and start of 5 (nice 5.8) Kyle starting Pitch 5 Kyle starting Pitch 5 (detail) Thanks to fgw for taking these and then sending them to us.
  5. Ha! It was Kyle who said yes to NOLSe's idea of running the trail out not I. It was good climbig with ya, Kyle. After a 14 hour day it was 6 hours from WA Pass to my girlfriends bed in Portland. Here's to NOLSe's coffee addiction (yea yea I know you can quit when ever you want, NOLSe).
  6. NOLSe, I know that you have meet her before, at least at pint night at bombs away. She was also a TA in Gen Chem at OSU. Several people there have asked me about her. Katie was a remarkable woman and I was shocked to learn about this accident.
  7. My TR for Finger of Fate Guide, text only (no topos) A good page from Summitpost.org You can also find some fantastic slab climbing about a mile from the boat dock you get dropped off at on Redfish lake.
  8. Actually he just got out of the ER but he fully intends to climb this weekend. I'll let him elaborate.
  9. I would also consider buying a pair if the pick was replaceable. Yea I trust you that they are burly but I'm sure I could find a way to break one. It seems absurd that it is not an option if it would not require a design modification. Was Grivel concerned that customers could buy a replacment pick and then machine their own shafts?
  10. In addition to NOLSe's questions. Does any one have a usefull opinion on the advantage of 80m range as opposed to 60m range.
  11. WTF, How do I get.. Sergeant Nutless
  12. I wasn't even born yet. Better hurry up. For me, make it through the year with out an injury that requires narcotic pain meds.
  13. Yes they can both work but Silvretta does not recommend using the pur a non din soled boot. The binding releases by allowing the toe to slip sideways out of the binding as opposed to the heel popping out like with the 500. Because a climbing boot will be more flexable in the ankle it will be more difficult to generate the torque to get the toe out as opposed to the heel. Also for boots with a rand, it looks like the toe piece of the pur will quickly wear a hole in rand. I tried them several times with my civetta's and at the lowest din I could already see marks in the rand. One other problem is getting the toe piece low enough to grab the toe welt.
  14. You want a pair of Silvretta 500's. There is no other binding that will reliably take a mountaineering boot. I have just purchased a pair. Hurry up and find a pair as the have gone up $120 in price.
  15. Yea, favorite color = green. Just be carefull, She bites.
  16. Maybe if you were not allergic to plastic you could train to handle that lactic acid build up a little better. Anyway, here are some images that were taken on Saturday December 4, 2004. After heading up to check out the cliff bands on the edge of the Eliot Glacer we found several fat flows. Makes a nice outing for PDXers.
  17. You should check to see if you have iron deficency anemia. One of the symptons is poor circulation due to lack of red blood cells. Some thing like 5% of women have this problem (less for men). Check it out and/or consider taking iron supplements and eating more iron rich foods, like raisens. J
  18. Who do you trust to mount a set of Silvretta 500's? Baring that who would you stay away from?
  19. I'm in the market for climbing skins for a pair of Atomic TM 11's but I have no experience with backcountry setups. The dimension of the ski's are 92/67/82 and 160 cm. I've searched around on Telemark tips but did not find much specific information or rather I got tired of sorting through all of the crap. Can anyone make a recommendation for brand, type, size, and attachment style? I thought I would try posting here to get an opinion on what is best for PNW snow. Thanks
  20. There is a reason that the Ice 9k is on sale with Mgear right now. In January a reworked model of both the ice and the alpinista is coming out which might actually be closer to their claimed weight. I would love to be able to weight a pair of these and see what they really weigh. Also they will be orange!
  21. I take great offense at this post. Look at this guy. Who snow plows? Just because I'm from Illinois does not mean I dont know how to use my edges. Besides back home its all about the WATER skiing.
  22. Who knows? I perfer not to climb alone and I don't go canyoneering. Perhaps you should climb with a... if you are worried about it.
  23. Buck has a model and so does Petzl. I personally use a small Spyderco slung on glow cord. Someone has finally put some thought into what a climber really needs. It's light, can't open when clipped to a biner but most importantly it has a bottle opener. Great. Great. Great. I've been really impressed with Trango's product design of late.
  24. Happy Birthday! Isn't November a great month. Hey Pandora, want to go extreme backpacking. I promise to drop lots of F bombs! Oh, I didnt think so. Jason
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