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About Illini

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  • Birthday 11/02/1979


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    Corvallis*.75 + PDX*.25
  1. New Land Bulge Discovered in Oregon!

    Two years ago I listened to a presentation by the Professor and his student that first theorized this. If I remember right they were taking water samples in streams and measuring sulfate levels. They were trying to find unknown hot springs. The level and pervasiveness of the sulfate levels led them to hypothesis that there was actually a large up welling of magma coming into contact with ground water. They were scoffed at untill another pass by a satillite with ground scanning radar proved the change in elevation.
  2. Alcohol burning stoves

    I have one of these stoves from Trangia, I fill it with HEET which if you look for at the right price is about $1 per 12 oz. You can find it in just about any gas station between the NW and the Midwest. Because it is so redaily avalible and considering how often I use this stove it is more practical for me than buying a gallon on methanol I store the fuel in a small red nalgene bottle that is made to store solvents and has a small pour spout located in the bottle mouth. I thought about making one from a pop can but I did not want to worry about crushing it all the time. Although I now work in a chemistry lab and I have access to pure ethanol. One for me! One for the Stove! One for me! .... (FYI dont drink pure ethanol as it contains some impurities in the form of benzene. Stick with the 90% for drinking!)
  3. Messner brother found

    http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,3604,1552233,00.html You suck at html.
  4. Pitches 3 (runout oatmeal) 4 (short 5.10) and start of 5 (nice 5.8) Kyle starting Pitch 5 Kyle starting Pitch 5 (detail) Thanks to fgw for taking these and then sending them to us.
  5. Ha! It was Kyle who said yes to NOLSe's idea of running the trail out not I. It was good climbig with ya, Kyle. After a 14 hour day it was 6 hours from WA Pass to my girlfriends bed in Portland. Here's to NOLSe's coffee addiction (yea yea I know you can quit when ever you want, NOLSe).
  6. Death on three finger jack

    NOLSe, I know that you have meet her before, at least at pint night at bombs away. She was also a TA in Gen Chem at OSU. Several people there have asked me about her. Katie was a remarkable woman and I was shocked to learn about this accident.
  7. Beta on Elephant's Perch?

    My TR for Finger of Fate Guide, text only (no topos) A good page from Summitpost.org You can also find some fantastic slab climbing about a mile from the boat dock you get dropped off at on Redfish lake.
  8. Ribbon-based economy

    Actually he just got out of the ER but he fully intends to climb this weekend. I'll let him elaborate.
  9. Grivel Monster

    I would also consider buying a pair if the pick was replaceable. Yea I trust you that they are burly but I'm sure I could find a way to break one. It seems absurd that it is not an option if it would not require a design modification. Was Grivel concerned that customers could buy a replacment pick and then machine their own shafts?
  10. Avy beacons

    In addition to NOLSe's questions. Does any one have a usefull opinion on the advantage of 80m range as opposed to 60m range.
  11. What's your snaffle name?

    WTF, How do I get.. Sergeant Nutless
  12. 2005 New Year's Climbing Goals

    I wasn't even born yet. Better hurry up. For me, make it through the year with out an injury that requires narcotic pain meds.
  13. Randonnee binding for Mountaineering boots?

    Yes they can both work but Silvretta does not recommend using the pur a non din soled boot. The binding releases by allowing the toe to slip sideways out of the binding as opposed to the heel popping out like with the 500. Because a climbing boot will be more flexable in the ankle it will be more difficult to generate the torque to get the toe out as opposed to the heel. Also for boots with a rand, it looks like the toe piece of the pur will quickly wear a hole in rand. I tried them several times with my civetta's and at the lowest din I could already see marks in the rand. One other problem is getting the toe piece low enough to grab the toe welt.
  14. Randonnee binding for Mountaineering boots?

    You want a pair of Silvretta 500's. There is no other binding that will reliably take a mountaineering boot. I have just purchased a pair. Hurry up and find a pair as the have gone up $120 in price.
  15. North side info

    Read the whole thread.