Dru Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Fresh off 8a.nu Beth Rodden has redpointed what could be the hardest female first ascent in the U.S. and perhaps the world? She redpointed an old aid climb called the Great Roof at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon. Our source says he "heard that she rated it 14b". Tommy Caldwell was also working it and was unable to do it. DFA she stole your project, dude! Quote
iain Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Not before I took a swing on that giant swing set they had set up there! I tried to steal the first draw too, but it was some old manky petzl thing. Quote
skyclimb Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Thats cool shit! We were up there on Sunday climbing, and saw these people jugging lines. We figured it was some locals who had fixed the A3 pitch, and were finishing the line. THEN, it dawns on us that the super-stars in town might be trying to free that som-bitch. That Roof is HUGE. Great position for sure. There is a picture of it on Smithrock.com under Ryan Lawson. "The last great crack waiting a free ascent in Smith Rock"per alan Watts. Quote
Dru Posted October 26, 2004 Author Posted October 26, 2004 Now my copy of the "new Smith Rock Guide" is out of date. If only Alan had waited 6 more months instead of rushing to print last spring, he would have had some impressive trad ascents (this and Sonnie on east monkey Face)in the book! Quote
iain Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Rather ironic that the cover of the new guide book is taken from the base of the great roof. Quote
cman Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Has the new guide book really come out? I have yet to see it anywhere. Quote
Dru Posted October 26, 2004 Author Posted October 26, 2004 They are selling it at the climbing store by the granite crag in Renton. Quote
Illini Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Where is the Great Roof? It just so happens that I have the guide book at work. Brogan Spire - North Face 5.6 A3 Smiths last great crack prbolem still awaits a free ascent. despite excellent quallity rock the inconvient location deters any attempts teh enitire route might go free, as the second pitch cuts around teh roof rather than pullin over it. Start below the obvius seam extending down from a large roof, midway along the north wall. Quote
Winter Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 I watched it on Sunday when I was supposed to be spotting MtnHigh on Thin Air. Pretty cool shit. They were whooping it up like kids over there. Quote
Rad Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 "They were whooping it up like kids over there." Um, they are kids...kids that rock. Quote
ryland_moore Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 I talked to my buddy Tim this morning as he has had a rope hung on it for a while now trying to work out the moves. He said that it is insanely hard and since the crack was bolted so early on, the pin scars are shallow, thin, and flared. Without really small fingers, it seems damn near impossible for the climbers of today. Beth's fingers are smaller than Tommy's hence the ascent. Not that it is easy by any means. My buddy Tim was only able to get up the first 20 feet of it. Could be like Lynn Hill on the Nose with other hardmen struggling to free it becasue of pin scar size? It was really good to see all the bad ass climbers out at Smith recently. Sonnie Trotter, Beth and Tommy, SHarma, and plenty of others have all been in the area, proving that Smith has some of the best climbs for the grade this time of year. Also heard that some of the hardmen couldn't finish another .14a in the area, showing that Smith shows solid climbing grades. Plus, you can't beat the views! Quote
iain Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Holy sh*t your buddy Tim must be friggen sweet how many pullups can he do and etc Quote
Dru Posted October 26, 2004 Author Posted October 26, 2004 Hey let's go nail it and widen all the pin scars so the free rating drops down to 11c. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Holy sh*t your buddy Tim must be friggen sweet how many pullups can he do and etc Quote
Pandora Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 CC and I noticed a group of people over at the Great Roof on Monday. After reading the route description I figured they were working on freeing it. Now I wish I'd gotten a closer look. Here's the photo skyclimb mentioned: Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Holy sh*t your buddy Tim must be friggen sweet how many pullups can he do and etc Oh of COURSE he was spraying; of COURSE he was name-dropping. Why else would he talk about such things? PS: Is your self-esteem really this weak? Stick to Asteroids, friend! It's making a comeback.... Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Rudy, I am NOT convinced he could bench-press you.... Quote
RuMR Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 naah way man, i'm FAT!!! Whopping 135 now...i've got to get down to 55 kg for wrestling though!! screw climbing!! Quote
iain Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 Thanks for the heads-up on Asteroids. You seem to have your finger on the pulse of the gaming world, and you pass that gift on to us. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 26, 2004 Posted October 26, 2004 "us" ain't seein my gifts as gifts, sir, although I appreciate the sentiment (you know the level of gaming discourse around here ). Have you been practicing, though? Check this out: Pyramid sets: 1 minute level 10, 2 minutes level 10, up to ten minutes, then back to 1 again. (And no fair hunting! This does nothing for your agility, which is really what you're tested on at the tournament.) Quote
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