Another Liberty Ridge Accident.

[Doug]

 

On CNN this morning

[mattp]

I don't believe that late June would be considered particularly "late" for this route by most people. My guess is that is the peak time for the route to be climbed, and in general as many ascents are made before that date as after. I climbed it in mid july of what I think was an average snow year and the glacier was fine, there was a little bit of rock exposed on the lower part of the ridge and just above Thumb Rock, and the snow conditions were great. The first ascent was made in September or October, I believe.

 

Early season has the advantage of having more snowcover, but soft or crusty snow more often than not slow a party more than they help. Also, the weather tends to be more stable as the season unfolds. It seems to me that most accidents on this route occur in June - but that is probably because that is when the most ascents are made.

 

Catbird: I wouldn't go so far as to call it a "death route" but it is friggin' serious. While those who say it is not very technical are correct, the obvious truth is that people die on it almost every year and multiple accidents occur most seasons.

 

The ridge is long and unforgiving. I'd recommend that you not attempt it if you haven't had experience with several technical alpine climbs and you're barely qualified in my opinion if the hardest climbs you've done are N. Ridge of Mt. Baker and N. Face of Shuksan (I don't know your resume). I say this because of the serious setting in terms of altitude, continuous exposure to the big ride and to things that may fall on you, the fact that there is some technical climbing on the route and conditions can be funky at any time in the season, and the fact that you can't see the weather coming. Remember, too, that you will be carrying your camping gear over the top if you approach it like most people do.

[catbirdseat]

I think that regardless of one's own thoughts are on the risk of the route, he should also consider those of his SO. Whether her concerns are valid are irrelevant. She will worry nonetheless if you go. I'm thinking I don't want to put her through a lot of worry, especially since the route will still be there next year and likely with less notoriety about it.

[fear]

I think that regardless of one's own thoughts are on the risk of the route, he should also consider those of his SO. Whether her concerns are valid are irrelevant. She will worry nonetheless if you go. I'm thinking I don't want to put her through a lot of worry, especially since the route will still be there next year and likely with less notoriety about it.

 

Just go for the Liberty Wall direct instead. Noone's died on that yet.

 

Std. Ptarmigan might be a better bet this year too for a realistic alternative.

 

-Fear

[DPS]

Late June would be considered very late season on that route though...correct?

 

One of those news articles (CNN I think) was saying that the Lib Ridge was one of the most difficult routes on Rainier. I had to question that statement, like aren't there alot of really sick routes on the Willis wall and such that would be considered the most difficult, putting Lib Ridge as a "walkup" relative to those? Not that it isn't a hard route, I don't doubt that, but one of the hardest on the mountain? Sounds more like a trade route to me...

 

Lambone and AlpinFox are correct. There are a lot of far more difficult routes, but Liberty Ridge is one of the harder commonly done routes.

 

Curtis Ridge, Willis Wall, Sunset Ampitheatre Headwall, Ptarmigan Ridge are all significantly more difficult than LR.

[tellutwurp]

Just wanted to put my 2 cents in. I was on liberty ridge during this last incident, we passed Cahill and the other groups about 1-2 hours before helicopters began circling. I would have to say the conditions are aweful up there. Super soft snow below thumb rock and mostly ice starting about 500' above thumb rock. I witnessed an avalanche start under another party's feet below thumb rock which entrailed enough snow to end up about 15' wide, they were lucky not to go down with it, I was scared to cross the slope. At thumb rock, rocks peirced the tent of the same party, I had my helmet close by. 15 people at TR that night, 1 w/ a sapce blanket, lol. Anyhow, above TR the snow was nice to the left, but once the ridge was regained it was all ice all day, need I say it sucked and took us an extremely long time, being very careful. The ice to the left and below of the Black Pyramid was black ice, virually inpenetrable, I had to cut steps with my adze. We went far left at the top and managed the bergschrund with relative ease, only a few vertical moves, but still nothing but ice until the final steps to the top.

With that said, this climb was only the 2nd time I have ever strapped on crampons, and although I was spooked, I mananged fairly well. You just have to respect the mountain, it is the minute you don't respect it that it kills you. Not to disrespect anyone, accidents are always tragic, but could it be that after 25 ascents/attempts of rainier maybe you lose some of that fear and concentration that drives your steps and tools in deep? I don't know. But I would say to you fellas who have trips planned that you should be fine, just be careful. Liberty Ridge definitly isn't technically that hard, but it is long and mistakes equate to death. There was a party attempting the curtis ridge during the same period, this is definitly a harder route.

Also, about the helicopters. They were coming and going all day, but obly the rescue copter and the blackhawk were close to the route, the news helicopter stood off, I actually never saw it. Anyhow, good luck to you all. Be safe and my regards to Cooley and Cahill's family.

[Lambone]

WOW, 2nd time using crampons eh? sheesh...gald you made it man.

 

Seriously, what are beginners thinking when they attempt this route?

 

All that ice climbg sounds pretty damn fun to me, sounds like perfect conditions...

 

Sucks about that accident though...bad stuff.

[fear]

WOW, 2nd time using crampons eh? sheesh...gald you made it man.

 

Damn..... That's just nuts dude... almost completely insane....

 

-Fear

[Dru]

this is my second time using a computer

[Bug]

I disagree. If he had lots of rock experience, his balance is all he needs. My first time in crampons, I climbed the north coulior of Middle Teton. It was totally comfortable.

[Stephen_Ramsey]

15 people at TR that night, 1 w/ a sapce blanket, lol.

That's going pretty light!

 

this climb was only the 2nd time I have ever strapped on crampons, and although I was spooked, I mananged fairly well.

Here's to you for having the guts and ability to pull it off.

Edited June 10, 2004 by Stephen_Ramsey

[ffmntnman]

I wanted to share with you all as Jon Cahill's climbing partner on that tragic day on Mt. Rainier.

 

We were having a great trip before the accident happened. We had spent a day acclimitizing at Thumb Rock for our big push to the summit. We were planning on staying on the summit that evening and pushing out to White River the next day.

 

Many of you had questions and comments regarding what happened. I will try to answer some of them and others I cannot. I am still trying to get in touch with some of the other climbers who were there and helped, to find out from their point of view as to what happened.

 

Jon and I had finished climbing the 60 degree slope to the right when you leave Thumb Rock. The conditions were excellent and we enjoyed the beautiful meteor shower at 2:40AM. We topped out from there and were just below the final little ridge before coming around the front of the Black Pyramid when I slipped on the ice as I was leading and was unable to gain my footing and my hand slipped out of one of the leashes on my ice axe. I attempted to hold on with the one and it let go. I attempted to self arrest and it caught and then let go. We fell at least 200 feet before coming to a stop. We were very fortunate that a rock caught the rope and stopped our fall. I fell to one side and Jon to the other. I ended up hanging about 12 feet over the edge and Jon was about 50 feet below me. The other groups came over to help and one of them went down to help Jon. I had dislocated my left knee and tore up my hand pretty good from trying to do the self arrest. One of the other climbers called 911 on his cell and kept in contact with them through this whole ordeal. The news choppers began hovering about 30-45 minutes after the first 911 call. It took a long time to get the climbing rangers to us, but they did all they could and did an excellent job. Unfortunately Jon passed away within one hour of the accident. I was plucked off the mountain about 5 hours after the accident happened and Jon's body was about a half an hour after I left. Please be in prayer for Jon's family as they deal with this tremendous loss.

[russ]

I wanted to share with you all as Jon Cahill's climbing partner on that tragic day on Mt. Rainier.

 

Our prayers are with you; sorry for your loss. I hope it helps to share some of the details - most of us can easily place ourselves in your shoes, so understand the pain that you're going through. Best of luck.

[olyclimber]

Thanks for posting Mark. I think I can speak for most the people on this board in that our thoughts were with you and Jon up there on the mountain, and continue to be with Jon's family. Even though it was a fluke accident, knowing what really happened makes us all better climbers.

[NCNate]

Thanks for posting. I can only second the feelings expressed by the previous two posts.

[Bug]

Hang in there. We are all still rooting for you.

[wally]

what are crampons?

[magellan]

Help the new guy. During the Cooley accident, they were reported to be using a 'butt belay' where the two climbers were on opposite sides of the ridge, belaying each other from a sitting position. Is this for real? Can you really be on opposite sides of the ridge? Why isn't the rope shredded? Are they clipped to a picket or a fluke?

 

[Fuggedaboudit]

Will light a candle for Jon's family this Sunday in St. Patricks Cathedral. As in the previous posts, THANK YOU for giving other climbers who have or will attempt this same route the FACTS about what happenned. Hope your knee is doing OK.

[The_dane]

Hi Mark

 

I was glad to read you input - I hope that you are feeling better, even though it will always be with you.

I have written a trip report on my web page www.mountain.dk under news, I haven't written much that hasn't already been said, but there might be a little.

 

I give my condolences to Jon's family and friends

 

Martin

[jefffski]

thank you for the report. you are heroes for doing everything you could to help.

[Tantalus]

My take on the whole thing is that we are seeing more and more unexperienced climbers on the mountains. Time is of the essence when on a mountain and it seems most are out on a route well beyond what is considered to be an exceptable time.

[The_dane]

This might be true in some cases.

 

In the case with Jon, I know that he was very experienced - he had climbed Rainier more than most people.

This was Jon’s 26th time and 10th time on Liberty Ridge, if that is inexperienced I shouldn’t even be walking the stairs to my apartment!!!

 

Martin

[eternalX]

Check it out here

 

There are about 4 articles in today's News Tribune about Liberty Ridge and climbing.