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Alex_Mineev

Question on crampons

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The sabertooths pack nice and take little room in the pack. Although I don't like traversing in them as much as the grivels. The grivels have one tooth cranked sideways to give stability while traversing, but the BD's are generally better for icy stuff. I've used my Grivel G10's all season this year, my Sabertooth's havn't seen any action for a year and a half. They popped off once on the Emmons glacier, but havn't since I cranked on the screw.

If they made a sabertooth with that tooth cranked sideways, then you would have a great crampon!

-One other note, my Sabertooth's have tended to ball up a little easier.

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Bill_Simpkins said:

The sabertooths pack nice and take little room in the pack. Although I don't like traversing in them as much as the grivels. The grivels have one tooth cranked sideways to give stability while traversing, but the BD's are generally better for icy stuff. I've used my Grivel G10's all season this year, my Sabertooth's havn't seen any action for a year and a half. They popped off once on the Emmons glacier, but havn't since I cranked on the screw.

If they made a sabertooth with that tooth cranked sideways, then you would have a great crampon!

-One other note, my Sabertooth's have tended to ball up a little easier.

What horizontal tooth are you talking about?? G-10 isn't meant for real climbing, you can't front-point in them. rolleyes.gif

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catbirdseat said:

What are you talking about? Sure, you can frontpoint in G-10s.

 

Picture

Ten point crampons...the secondary points are very far back...you CAN frontpoint on them, but since you cannot rest the secondary points against the ice, it is VERY strenuous. thumbs_down.gif

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I have used charlet s12's on vertical and overhanging ice many a time and they frontpoint just fine w/o secondary teeth. Unless you have tried these personally, perhaps you should scale back your strong opinion.

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iain said:

I have used charlet s12's on vertical and overhanging ice many a time and they frontpoint just fine w/o secondary teeth. Unless you have tried these personally, perhaps you should scale back your strong opinion.

Speak not so harshly to the bookread boy wonder!

 

I too have front pointed without secondary points. It's not that bad.

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iain said:

I have used charlet s12's on vertical and overhanging ice many a time and they frontpoint just fine w/o secondary teeth. Unless you have tried these personally, perhaps you should scale back your strong opinion.

I have used them, so I guess my 'strong opinion' is justifed. the_finger.gif And Charlet S12s have secondary points that will engage the ice or hard snow at a reasonable angle. The G10 doesn't.

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daler said:

Alex,

 

The Sabertooth is the best all around crampon made. It will alpine climb, waterice climb with the best of them and it mixed climbs very well. If I were to only own one crampon it would be the sabertooth.

 

dale

 

I dont know about the one comment above.

 

Stubai Tirols with the universal binding are just as good... Dale must be sponsored by BD.

 

 

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I would have to agree with everything said about the Sabertooth. BD bot plates are horrible and way overpriced but most people I climb with including myself make em out of plastic and zip ties anyway.

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jesse_mason said:

G12 all the way!!! First havve you looked at this crampon, 1) woa wicked front points its like having 2 ice picks on your feet, they are as thick as the sabers fronts are wide. 2) you can move them closer together or further apart or even go for a mono point. 3) the bottom teeth are way more agressive than the sabers, you can replace the front points if they wear out. 4) quick release adjustable sizing so you can make them really small for travel then snap on your foot no bolt to mess with like the saber. If your like me and change your foot wear but use the same crampons. you wont piss off your partner when you have to size them for your boot you chose to wear that day while he freezes at the belay. 5) you can get rid of the stupid front thing that you slide the webbing through on the toe bail. 6) they dont ball up the walk awesome and climb steep ice awesome.

 

I dunno man sabers WERE awesome and still do the job but the g12 are ahead of their time I have had them for a while, July 2002 is when i got mine ,

 

thats the crampon to buy dude, oh and you mile as well spend the thirty canadian bucks and buy the antibots the whole gallon jug of water thing is a pain you spend 10 just buying stupid jugs then another 5 buying twist ties.

 

Thats my 02 cents

Jesse

 

you're thinking of the G14's, not the G12's.

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I JUST recieved a pair of sabertooths in the mail. I slapped them on my boots, and holy shit!!! These things are going to rockband.gif

I have been using smc's for way too long, finally threw down the $130, and i will be rewarded for sure grin.gifgrin.gifgrin.giffruit.gif

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yeah man,

these things fit so tight, and it takes two seconds to strap em up. They are sharp and sleek. What was I thinking being stubborn for so long?? confused.gif

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I like mine so much I am thinking of getting some new ones that adjust more easily. Those allen screws are a PITA.

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A lot of my buddies back East swear by them climbing hard WI and mixed routes. I think they do just about everything almost as well as having a specialized crampon for each activity (walking, climbing, etc.) I would probably have a pair by now if I didn't get a pair of S12s and some makos for free a few years ago :-D

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Sabertooth said:

Ask Steve House if they are any good. He has sent WI7 in them.

You mean WI8? Backes called M16 harder than WI7+. cantfocus.gif

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the sabretooths have that nice double-point 2nd row, but seemed to me like they were too short to be super effective on steeper ice (i know you've all pointed to world class climbers climbing hard shit in 'em, but to me that's not evidence that they'll be effective for a beginner). i went with the G12's b/c that 2nd row is wicked long and burly. i think they make for a nice all-around crampon b/c they're not specialized for steep ice so you would still take them on glaciers, but they're also excellent steep ice climbing crampons so you don't need to shell out $150-200 for vertical frames.

 

also, the anti-bott plates kick ass. they are easy to get on and off w/o disassembling the crampons, and they shed snow better than any plates i've seen. the adjustment mechanism is very convenient too -- and you can replace it with a screw if you want to save weight. i like the newmatic attachment system (heel clips, toe straps) -- quicker than all straps and more secure than all clips.

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if you were getting sabertooths would people get the step-in thing or the plastic clip in front? do both hold equally well w/o shifting, etc? I would think the clip more versatile for supergaiters etc.

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I love my "clip in front" Sabertooths but I did have a few problems with them popping off of my Scarpa Cerro Torre's this past weekend. I think it was because I didn't have the heel clip in quite the right place (it was dark) After I futzed with them a bit before things got hariy, they seemed to hold OK and they didn't come off for the rest of the climb. It was still a little unnerving. There were definitely places that I would have been screwed if they had come off.

 

I think it probably depends on the boot. The Cerro Torres have pretty small rands in the front. The clips are bomber on my T 2's and they are so fast to get on and off.

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I've used my sabres on Makalus, T2s, Salomon Pro Ice, leather tele boots and Invernos. I've never had them pop off. Ever. Make sure they are adjusted to be tight, take the extra second to make sure the toe bail is seated in the groove of your boot (wipe out excess snow or debris) and the heal bail locked in the right spot and you're in the house.

 

 

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shredmaximus said:

I love my "clip in front" Sabertooths but I did have a few problems with them popping off of my Scarpa Cerro Torre's this past weekend. I think it was because I didn't have the heel clip in quite the right place (it was dark) After I futzed with them a bit before things got hariy, they seemed to hold OK and they didn't come off for the rest of the climb. It was still a little unnerving. There were definitely places that I would have been screwed if they had come off.

i had that kina shit happen with em. i figured out that the screw that tightens the heel bail had loosened a bit. its all lock-tited and shit now.

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