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Alex_Mineev

Question on crampons

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Hi people

I plan to upgrade my crampons from entry-level BD Contact Strap to something that will work better on steep (but not vertical) snow/ice.

Here is the list of things I look at:

1) BD Sabertooth

2) Grivel G12

3) Petzl Charlet Rapidfix S-12

4) Camp Ice Rider Step-In Crampons (http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=5501IR)

I love the pair of simple BDs I currently have and I pretty much like look and feel of Sabertooths which are also the haviest in the list. I have nothing to say about Grivel and Petzl, probably good and the lightest ones, I just need some feedback from owners if there are any. Option 4 attracts with price.

 

Anything to say?

 

I am going to try some moderately steep routes of rock/snow/ice. I tried my current BDs to climb out of a crevasse and it was the first time they sucked (may be I did, so I want to eliminate one variable from the equation).

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I have the G12's and I love them, I haven't done anything really steep (at the most 50 degrees) in them and they perform very well. I also have used the BD Contact Strap one time on the Emmons route on Rainier and they had great purchase, but I didn't like the fact that they were hinged and bent so much. I like the G12's and use em' all the time.

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I took the G12's up DC on Rainier twice and they were pretty worn down afterwards, but both times the cleaver was almost completely melted out so we were on rock for 45 minutes or so. They have been pretty tough. I was a little surprised that I had to sharpen them after 4 trips 2 of which involved chossy rock.

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2, 3, and 4 on your list are more entry level crampons. You might try the Grivel G14, Petzl M10, BD Bionics instead. You could get into some waterfall ice climbing with those. There would be room to grow, plus they would perform better on the steep stuff.

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Alex,

 

The Sabertooth is the best all around crampon made. It will alpine climb, waterice climb with the best of them and it mixed climbs very well. If I were to only own one crampon it would be the sabertooth.

 

dale

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One thing to consider is what boots you'll be putting them on. Some crampons fit on certain boots better than others.

 

Sabretooths are great crampons. Take a look at the Charlet Moser Black Ice, too.

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I agree with the others wrt Sabretoorh crampons. I've had mine since '98 and they not only hold up well over time but they fit every boot I've used tried them on--never popped off.

 

They climb well in mixed and semi-vertical ice as well. I've climbed WI4 in them. Its usually my technique that causes me to suffer rather than crampons.

 

Doesn't Will Gadd climb in Sabres?

 

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rbw1966 said:Doesn't Will Gadd climb in Sabres?

Indeed he/does did - they were quite popular for hard ice/mixed. And I love my Sabretooths - they rock!http://www.gravsports.com/Gear%20Folder/Cobras,%20Sabretooths.htm

 

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Thanks!

I think I'll stop on BD Sabertooth - even before posting here I liked them more than any other option. Just wanted to make sure...

REI has 20% off now... heading to REI HCL.gif

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Alex--after you buy your pons empty out a milk jug and cut some plastic to fit the inside of the points then attach the plastic to the crampons using cord, wire or garbage bag ties. Works pretty well as anti-bot plates.

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rbw1966 said:

Alex--after you buy your pons empty out a milk jug and cut some plastic to fit the inside of the points then attach the plastic to the crampons using cord, wire or garbage bag ties. Works pretty well as anti-bot plates.

 

use forest service fee demo signs. very durable material and it is free!

 

 

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I have the Charlet Rapidfix S-12 and have used on basic glacier and easy snow climbing to ice climbing on Rainier. Which also included some rock inbetween. I feel very comfortable with them. I've used them on 2 different types/brands of leather boots with no problems.

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I have done a decent amount of vertical ice with my crappy salawa alpine crampons. Its more about you than the crampons.

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G12 all the way!!! First havve you looked at this crampon, 1) woa wicked front points its like having 2 ice picks on your feet, they are as thick as the sabers fronts are wide. 2) you can move them closer together or further apart or even go for a mono point. 3) the bottom teeth are way more agressive than the sabers, you can replace the front points if they wear out. 4) quick release adjustable sizing so you can make them really small for travel then snap on your foot no bolt to mess with like the saber. If your like me and change your foot wear but use the same crampons. you wont piss off your partner when you have to size them for your boot you chose to wear that day while he freezes at the belay. 5) you can get rid of the stupid front thing that you slide the webbing through on the toe bail. 6) they dont ball up the walk awesome and climb steep ice awesome.

 

I dunno man sabers WERE awesome and still do the job but the g12 are ahead of their time I have had them for a while, July 2002 is when i got mine ,

 

thats the crampon to buy dude, oh and you mile as well spend the thirty canadian bucks and buy the antibots the whole gallon jug of water thing is a pain you spend 10 just buying stupid jugs then another 5 buying twist ties.

 

Thats my 02 cents

Jesse

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you wont piss off your partner when you have to size them for your boot you chose to wear that day while he freezes at the belay

 

Dude...you change your boots in the middle of a climb? hellno3d.gif

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G12s are fine crampons, nothing special. There are better choices out there. The G14 for one is a much better crampon all around. On steep headwalls, the BD crampons will have 6 points of contact with that dual tip piece, most others will have 4. What do you think is the most stable? Something to think about.

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BD Sabretooth. I've got the G12, and they're your plain-Jane, run of the mill crampon. They'll do it, but the Sabretooth will do it better.

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I use sabretooths and have to change the sizing with each different pair of boots I use. I do this in the comfort of my own home while drinking a beer. If your partner is too stupid to adjust his crampons BEFORE you get to the climb then I'm not sure I'd trust him belaying you.

 

I witnessed this in action while climbing on Hood once and watching a gaper fumble with his rented crampons while his buddies stood around freezing--they had him crying before just leaving his ass there.

 

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