Greg_W Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 After reading Al Pine's post in the "rack" thread about how much gear he carries (a lot!!), and being bored, I began to wonder about what people think a "standard free rack" is. I had a conversation with a fairly newby climber (his admission) about what kind of gear he had. After listing almost exactly what I normally carry on almost ALL my climbs, he said he was a "few hundred bucks from completing his rack"; after about a 5 minute explanation, I convinced him that he probably had enough gear to do just about anything at or slightly above his level. Granted, we all tailor the specific rack to match the conditions of the climb; however, what's your standard rack? For reference, I carry a set of nuts, a set of cams from blue alien to #3 camalot, about 9 slings and a few extra biners; this has gotten me all over all sorts of shit. I augment as needed, but don't we all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 soundz about what i got, but i now have less camalots on my rack, well atleast the one i sport around. but i always have 2 sets of tcus with me. they just always work. i think a set of cams is good for granite, but with some other types of stone additionals are always needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Camalots from .3 to 4, inc half sizes, four metolius cams (black is the smallest), two sets of stoppers, a few hexes. Gets you up just about anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 erik said: soundz about what i got, but i now have less camalots on my rack, well atleast the one i sport around. but i always have 2 sets of tcus with me. they just always work. i think a set of cams is good for granite, but with some other types of stone additionals are always needed. Extra tcu's are dope...particularly the yellow and blues I find that i always take waaaay too much gear and wind up getting to the belay w/ a lot of crap still on my harness.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 This is all very encouraging to read. I was worried I might have to run out and buy more stuff, but it sounds like I have a pretty decent collection already (9 nuts, 7 hexes, 8 cams). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Standard Rack: As many #2 camalots and 2.5 Friends as you can get your hands on (maybe a #1 camalot). Climb only perfect hand-cracks. Climbing will always be fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 12-15 quickdraws, end of story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: 12-15 quickdraws, end of story. DFA, you must be more specific for the gearheads on this thread- break it down into short, medium, and long quickdraws.....and don't forget about a bail 'biner for those desperate projects, and some kind of anchor slingage. Who said sport climbing gear was easy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 he also left off his stick clip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 a bail biner is planning for failure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 matt_warfield said: DFA, you must be more specific for the gearheads on this thread- break it down into short, medium, and long quickdraws.....and don't forget about a bail 'biner for those desperate projects, and some kind of anchor slingage. Who said sport climbing gear was easy! Two of the quickdraws are long Metolius or Petzl draws (depending on whether they are DFA's or Mrs. DFA's), the rest are short BD draws (Enduro straight, Quickwire bent). Cheap, durable, wiregated. The long ones are usually for the anchors. Bail biners are for chumps who like to leave crap hanging on routes. If you can't get up it, either TR it or climb something easier (exceptions being missing holds or other extenuating circumstances). And whoever said a stick clip ... . If you are gonna stick clip, get a fuckin' stick and use some tape. Stick clips are fucktarded, and there are only a few routes where one might actually use such a thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bird Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 I got a 1980's climbing rack: Bosch drill, bolts, hangers, 15 draws, hammer and chisel, plastic holds and glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: And whoever said a stick clip ... . If you are gonna stick clip, get a fuckin' stick and use some tape. Stick clips are fucktarded, and there are only a few routes where one might actually use such a thing. like say the better half is working zebra direct and you dont want to lead the thing, you stick clip it so she can work on her pinkpoint?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmcmurra Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Nice thread... I usually feel that I take a little too much, though on long pitches I have come close to placing everything (which I have begun to rack on my harness, instead of a sling, WRT the other thread). Although maybe I place too much gear, too... Anyway, I carry a set and a half of nuts, 4 hexes, cams from purple TCU to #3.5 Friend (doubled around the #0.5-2 size), pink and red Tricam. The nuts, hexes and 4 midsize Aliens see the majority of the action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 I have almost 2 sets of nuts, A set of Camalots from 0.5-4, a #10 hex, a couple Metolius cams, (black and 2 blues) as well as a couple Metolius tricams, and about 5 Tricams. These work where nothing else will. I love em! Oh yeah, and an old Chouinard stopper I scored from a local crag, left a looong time ago as a TR anchor. Gotten me in plenty of trouble so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 -Set of nuts, double on smalls. -pink, red and brown tricam -Friends #00-4 -DMM 3CU purple and green, smallest -sometimes the three blueish tricams After Monday, I'll probably throw in a couple of small hexes to help double up on the mid-sized nut placements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 34C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Greg_W said: I had a conversation with a fairly newby climber (his admission) about what kind of gear he had. After listing almost exactly what I normally carry on almost ALL my climbs, he said he was a "few hundred bucks from completing his rack"; after about a 5 minute explanation, I convinced him that he probably had enough gear to do just about anything at or slightly above his level. Greg_W, I still am thankful for that conversation. I have only purchased a couple hexes since we had that talk, and have yet to run out of gear on a single pitch. What should I do with all the money I saved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 What should I do with all the money I saved? Send it to me...of course!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Hydroponic grow operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 rbw1966 said: Hydroponic grow operation. dirt is actully way more cost effective and gives you more leeway on making mistakes during the cycles. the marginal increase in home grow ops for recreational purposes is null. well that is atleast what i have read and shit.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 erik said: rbw1966 said: Hydroponic grow operation. dirt is actully way more cost effective and gives you more leeway on making mistakes during the cycles. the marginal increase in home grow ops for recreational purposes is null. well that is atleast what i have read and shit.... i call bs on that one. twice as fast, twice the yield. but i don't know a damned thing about it, so don't ask me either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 brock what was the size of the setup you ran? and you cannot claim it to be cheaper! the cost of the hydro setup is unsightly! unless of course the hobby you are reading about is for profit! and the automate the system is quite a job too! you can make mistakes with dirt and still recoup your crop! but either way i have only ever read about any of this, so what would i really know!??!?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.