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Jopa

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Everything posted by Jopa

  1. Darrington conditions?

    Good to know. Thanks again.
  2. Darrington conditions?

    Great TR! Did you drive past the 3 o'clock trail head? I'm thinking that a bike might be a good alternative to walking the last couple of miles (from the 3:00 TH).
  3. Darrington conditions?

    Thanks, Tyson.
  4. Darrington conditions?

    Has anyone driven past the 3 o'clock TH toward Green Giant Buttress lately? Does is still take paint off the car?
  5. Iceberg climbing - video

    Excellent film! It made me want to plan a road trip with good friends. Way to represent Western PA, too. I grew up to your north in Erie. It's not often that climbing and Western PA get to enjoy the same sentence together.
  6. Incredible photos. Well done, Curt!
  7. Darrington Sunday

    PM sent.
  8. Index in condition?

    Any thoughts on if Shady Lane will dry out tomorrow? Does the crag get any sun, or does it stay true to its name all day?
  9. The crack house is a fun crag to spend a half-day. The features on the rock are really unique. Comp wall looks outstanding, but I didn't make it there last time.
  10. Trip: Mt. Stuart - Upper North Ridge Date: 7/30/2010 Trip Report: The north ridge had been high on my list for a few years, but the stars had yet to align. Finally that changed last July. I met up with Curtveld on a Thursday morning and we headed to the Esmeralda Basin trailhead. We had a few days free, so our plan was to basecamp at Stuart pass for two nights so we could climb without bivy gear. Curt soaking in the view: We arrived at Stuart pass and set up camp. The welcoming committee: There were thunderstorms in the forecast, but the big storm was not due until Saturday. During the night I could see flashes of lightning off in the distance but never heard any thunder. This continued into the morning, but there was no immediate threat so we decided to give it a go. We left Stuart pass at around 5am and meandered up to Goat pass for our first view of the upper north ridge: Once we dropped down to the Stuart glacier I couldn't help but notice that the clouds were rolling in from the south, so we would not be able to see any thunderstorms moving in until they were overhead. This turned out to be a good thing, though, because it forced me to forget about the weather and just enjoy the climbing. I wore crampons on my approach shoes, but Curt did just fine in approach shoes only. The approach gully was steeper than I anticipated, but we never felt the need to rope up until we hit the notch. The rock along the climber's left side of the gully is pretty good quality. We arrived at the notch and began simul-climbing at around 8:30am. Simul-climbing was not always easy, however, since the route goes over and around small towers and crags, and at times we found it easier to do shorter blocks even though we had more gear. We swapped leads and were moving quite efficiently. I could not get over the rock quality and position. Truly incredible. Soon we made our way up to the beautiful slab below the gendarme (Curt on the sharp end): I then took off along the wildly exposed ridge for another fun block of climbing: Eventually we reached the gendarme and decided we would haul our packs even though they were pretty light. This worked out really well and allowed us to enjoy the climbing. We swapped leads again with Curt leading the off-width on pitch two. I thought the crack on pitch one was excellent, but the exposure of the second pitch was hard to beat: After finishing up the gendarme there is still a ways to go, including another fun (5.8-ish) hand crack a few hundred feet below the summit. Once on the summit we took a long break and enjoyed the views. There was a fire in the area (either Wenatchee or Entiat, I can't remember), which made it a bit hazy: Summit shot: We did the standard Cascadian descent and it lived up to the hype. I took forever making my way down the initial snowfield. Curt, on the other hand, was like Spiderman and had the pleasure of watching me slip and slide for a while. After the snowfield it was a long ways down to the valley below, only to have to slog a long ways back up to Stuart pass. We made it back to camp around 10:30pm and had a feast. All in all it was a great day with a great partner on a climb that exceeded my expectations. It was also a bonus that we had the mountain entirely to ourselves. We never saw another party the whole day. That must be rare for Mt. Stuart in late July. Gear Notes: Singles up to a blue camelot Approach Notes: Ingalls
  11. Yikes. That was quite a storm! I remember watching those dark clouds roll in as we made it back to the parking lot and wondering if you guys were on route. Razorback looks nice.
  12. Thanks Porter! Sorry it took a contest to get me to post a TR. Shameless!
  13. Rock'n Roadtrip

    FIB's? F*cking Illinois Bastards! They siege the place on the weekends.
  14. Rock'n Roadtrip

    Devil's lake in Wisconsin will be the best spot in the upper midwest that is along I-90. Try to go on a weekday to avoid all the FIBs. There is also a good sandstone crag near the town of Necedah, just before I-90 & I-94 split. Mountain project has good info on both crags.
  15. Ptarmigan Traverse, a clear way.

    I agree. I would add that, for me, thrashing through Bachelor Creek was part of the allure of Dome Peak. I enjoyed having to work hard to reach such an amazing place, and I also liked the fact that we only saw one other party in four days. That was six years ago and I had just about forgotten how painful it was, evidenced by the fact that I am considering going back this summer. Unfortunately, ivan's picture may have set me back one more year. Nice pic, by the way. Your expression exudes "demoralization", which is how I recall feeling. Anyway, I can understand wanting easier access, but I don't support the effort in this particular case. If anything, I will write a letter urging the FS to spend their time and limited resources elsewhere.
  16. Cleaning at Index

    Thank you! I would have never known there was useful information in that thread :-)
  17. Cleaning at Index

    Has anyone been up to Shady Lane recently? I was thinking about checking out that crag in a week or two and wondered how much cleaning it would require. I know that it was cleaned in May 2009 but wasn't sure how quickly the moss reclaims the rock...
  18. [TR] Index - Rattle Tale 5/6/2007

    But how about this? [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hk3z3ClbiM
  19. [TR] L-town - Classic Crack- Leavenworth 10/14/2009

    Dave Whitelaw introduced me to Classic Crack when I was first learning how to jam. I climbed to the top and was ready to be lowered, but Dave hollered up "now downclimb!" So I did. Once I got to the bottom he said, "now climb up again." Sure enough once I got to the top he suggested that I downclimb...again. This was followed by a third lap and subsequent downclimb, after which my ego gave in to the river of blood gushing from both hands. Just as my feet touched the bottom he said, "Congratulations. You just climbed one pitch at Yosemite." Those gobies stuck around for a very long time.
  20. Thursday 8/6

    I was thinking Index or Darrington but I'm open to ideas. Send a pm if interested. I'll be coming from Bellingham.
  21. Ramone Rock ?

    Has anyone been up to Half Moon Crags? Is it worth the trek? Also, does anyone know which direction the climbs face? I know that the crag is in Dave W's latest guidebook but I don't have a copy.
  22. Cleaning at Index

    I was able to find all of the routes by glancing at mountain project. There is also a topo of the surrounding crags in relation to the town here. 'Magic Fern' is the first route you encounter along the trail, followed by 'Battered Sandwich', and then 'Senior Citizens in Space'. These three routes are within ~30 feet of each other. Apparently there is another 5.9 up the hill from Senior Citizens but we didn't check it out.
  23. Unless one is chillin' on the top of a column and you happen to put your hand in that same spot as you top out. I saw an unlucky individual get bit that way at Royal Columns. Thankfully Porter was there to give him this piece of advice, "Dude, you should go to the hospital or you might die." He was very thankful.
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