erik Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Ristau Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Two sets of nuts (rocks & superrocks) Camalots, .3 to 3.5 Some very old and clunky hexagonals Five shiny new tricams (not for long) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Automating the system costs all of about $20. Â Eriks been kissing the pipe again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Is this the High times thread or sumtin? Â I only use nuts, hexs, and tri cams... but that only cuz I'm a poor white kid tryin to make in the hood... One of these days I'll build my cam rack up and wonder why I was so stupid for not doing it sooner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Nice use of segue to get waay off topic! Â RBW: 100 points. Erik: 78 points. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 rbw1966 said: Automating the system costs all of about $20. Â Eriks been kissing the pipe again. Â HPS bulb cost more than 20 bucks dood.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted August 27, 2003 Share Posted August 27, 2003 Fejas said: rbw1966 said: Automating the system costs all of about $20. Â Eriks been kissing the pipe again. Â HPS bulb cost more than 20 bucks dood.... 'Â Ok. Who's talking about bulbs 'dood'? I was talking strictly automation, not illumination. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 rbw1966 said: Fejas said: rbw1966 said: Automating the system costs all of about $20. Â Eriks been kissing the pipe again. Â HPS bulb cost more than 20 bucks dood.... 'Â Ok. Who's talking about bulbs 'dood'? I was talking strictly automation, not illumination. Â Â Just like the great outdoors boss ... I guess used pump are cheap, and vormiculite isn't that spendy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 36 DDD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 (edited) What about baby angles, kb's, bugs and la's? Edited August 28, 2003 by Crackbolter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 all this talk of hps bulbs and soils and stuff...guys it's a weed you could throw the seeds over your shoulder if you wanted to grow the stuff in the pnw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 Pitons, angles, baby angles, hammer, hexes, large stoppers slung with perlon and webbing, knotted 1" webbing, oval biners, and a few sling-and-knots of varying sizes   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 A standard rack could be-  For a winter climb around here with snow ice and rock:  3-4 knife blades 1-2 lost arrows 1 Baby angle blue, orange and yellow tcus green and baby blue metolius cams 6-8 24 inch slings 10-18 carabiners 6-12 chocks  For a summer rock climb or mountain it could be:  blue, orange and yellow tcus green and baby blue metolius cams 6-10 24 inch slings 10-18 carabiners 6-12 chocks   For a snow slog with some potential for low angle ice:  4-8 slings 24 inchers one picket 2 ice screws 1-2 knife blades  For a cool route at Peshastin Pinnacles:  air voyagers 1-4 crash pads An ambulance in the parking lot (optional) a cell phone (optional)  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 rbw1966 said: 34C That's about the size of 'em ah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 A set of nuts from #3 to #11 doubled from #8-#10 4-6 hexes from #4 to #9 1 set of 6 SLCDs from 0.5" to 3" 3 Tricams #s 0.5, 1 and 2. 8 shoulder length slings. 20 biners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 Brand names aside, my standard rack is very much like Greg's. Â Some things I've noticed are: Â I like having extra double slings on moderate alpine routes (slinging trees/horns, minimizing rope drag). Â On moderate alpine stuff, I like tricams .5-2.5 and hexes 7-9 a lot. Â When climbing steep cracks, I don't want to futz around with nuts, hexes, or tricams because it's so tiring to place gear, and cams tend to go in faster and easier. Â I tend to place the #4 Friend on nearly all pitches that I am carrying it. Many times it is the first or second piece I place. Â If I am climbing a sustained pitch near my limit for the first time that takes certain size ranges of pieces, I like the comfort of knowing that I won't run out of the critical piece when I need it (carrying doubles of handsize cams, etc.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 First: You don't have to get spendy to go hydro...you can use the non-circulating tray method, where you simply change the tray water once a week. This works well for a 10-12 plant closet size operation running a single 400w or 1000 hps, with about 4-6 plants per tray (using sea of green, single stalk, starting flowering cycle immediately after the clones root). An aquarium pump with Y-splitters on the hoses run into the trays will keep the medium oxygenated and you can use vermiculite, plain 'ol landscaping type lava rock, rockwool, or several other mediums. But, having HEARD about both methods, soil is just easier for a closet sized deal. Â Philips 400w HPS bulbs run about $18 if you know where to go. Â Oh yeah, the rack.... Â For me, it's all about the area...and specifically the climb itself. I've got a pretty extensive rack with triples or quads of just about everything and rack for the individual route. But in general on a multi-pitch I carry double set of cams and nuts and rack for individual pitches. Â My interpretation of a "std rack" in route descriptions means cams #1 TCU-#3 camalot, a set of nuts, dozen slings, half dozen draws, 2 cordelettes, six lockers, glass/lighter/green. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 fluorescent is low power and heat, might work to grow daisies and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 erik said:Â Â like say the better half is working zebra direct and you dont want to lead the thing, you stick clip it so she can work on her pinkpoint?? Â Â Trick question! The Mrs. don't climb slabs, just like yours truly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted August 28, 2003 Share Posted August 28, 2003 About 34 B to 36 C Â I don't own any gear. I either climb with partners who do or free solo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted August 29, 2003 Share Posted August 29, 2003 Pshah, you've had your gear for so long you don't even want to admit to it anymore  Cavey said it well.  Index rack: - One full set BD stoppers (kind of suck) - Another set of passives (HB offsets through knuckle-sized DMM wallnutz to pink, red tricams and couple of off-fingers/off-hands hexes) - Double set of cams from blue Metolius TCU to #2 Camalot, plus bigger as needed - Slings slings slings enough slings to tie a horse down - Plus biners and lockers and, godsaveusall, maybe some draws?  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 29, 2003 Share Posted August 29, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: For a cool route at Peshastin Pinnacles: Â air voyagers 1-4 crash pads An ambulance in the parking lot (optional) a cell phone (optional) Â Hey captdumbass. there are legit crack climbs at PP worth doing fer sure! so you definitely need the rest of the summer rack you also mentioned........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncascademtns Posted August 29, 2003 Share Posted August 29, 2003 If your talkn' Alpine, 3 nuts (1 small, 1 medium, 1 large) 3 cams (1 small, 1 medium, 1 large) Â Should I say more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted August 29, 2003 Share Posted August 29, 2003 ncascademtns said: If your talkn' Alpine, 3 nuts (1 small, 1 medium, 1 large) 3 cams (1 small, 1 medium, 1 large) Should I say more? 6 biners and 38 feet of hemp rope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted August 29, 2003 Share Posted August 29, 2003 whatever looks good from the bottom basically. Â some cams usually, a few nuts, lots of slings, and maybe some water pro if need be. pins from time to time. :shrug: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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