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Everything posted by MtnHigh

  1. July 16, 2009 Mt Hood: Razorblade Pinnacle: Machete Oregon and SW Washington climbers are conditioned to travel afar to the north, south and east for alpine rock. The Washington Cascades, California Sierras, and Idaho Sawtooths are the primary destinations. However, right in our back yard, on the peak that we disdain the crowds, criticize the noobies and voyeuristically consume the sensational media events, is an isolated alpine rock gem. The Razorblade is only a 1.5 hour drive from Portland and a 2.5 hour approach, yet few humans have walked on the summit. The summit register, placed during the first ascent in ’93, has only 12 entries in it. The pinnacle has seen a few more ascents, (Wayne’s name is not in the register although he has an A4 test piece on the east face and a pic of his butt while he is on Gilette is in PRC 1st edition). Razorblade pinnacle’s south face from the south fork of the Muddy. Machete is just left of center. Gillette is the left skyline. Tim Olson took Kyle Lehman and I on one of his adventurous climbs. It has been 7 years since Tim last climbed the pinnacle. On this climb he was on a mission to photo the pinnacle and put us to work doing chores. We freshened up the existing bolted rappel anchors with new rings and webbing. Plus we removed the old tangles of tat. All three of us were tapping holds as we climbed, tossing off potential lead wippers and belay bombs. Aside from these, the rock is surprisingly good for Mt Hood rock standards. Looking up west prow and Gillette (10b) from the base. Clean and solid. Anchor chores. Looking west down the North and South forks of the Muddy. Although the climbing is moderate, 5.8ish, the character of the climb keeps your attention peaked. The first and second pitches are a bit run out, the edges are sandy, and the Larkspur, Indian Paintbrush and heather draping the rock makes for adventurous climbing. Gear placements are minimal due to the compact nature of the rock on the south face. Less than 5 passive gear placements were used throughout our climb. Tim softened up the R rating by adding a few extra pins on the 1st and 2nd pitches. Kyle on pitch 1 Vertical garden climbing Summit lunch. Kyle and I. How to get there Drive Lolo Pass road to FS Rd 1825 and park at the Top Spur trailhead. A plastic shitter conveniently located there. The approach 2.5 to 3 hours Hike about two miles of trail (Top Spur trail to trail #600 towards Timberline) until it meets the north fork of Muddy creek. Cross both the north and south forks of Muddy creek, (look for flagging to cross the north fork, use a large dead tree for the south fork), ascend creek boulders on the south edge of the south fork for a half mile or more then cross the creek again to it’s north edge when the pinnacle is directly above you to the northeast. Exit the drainage and ascend up sketchy hard packed dirt slopes to the southwest base of the pinnacle. Gear Minimal rack. A few nuts, and couple of cams to 1.5 Boots ease the sketch factor on hard pack dirt. In Closing Thanks Tim for sharing your knowledge and the adventure. Gillette is now on the must do list. And to all… Avoid the Ozone crowds and forego the Beacon rock closure banter and climb something different for a change. It is well worth the effort.
  2. Climb: Big Four-Spindrift Coulior Date of Climb: 2/18/2006 Trip Report: The climb We left Portland late Friday evening and started the climb as soon as we arrived at the gated road early Saturday morning. The gate is ~1 1/2 miles from the trailhead. Starlit skies, no wind and frigid temps. Perfect weather. Happy Bill Getting through the lower cliff band is not technical. Stay to the far right. Just some steep treed terrain. Once you gain the lower basin it's a long rising left traverse on rock hard snow. Easy going. The lower third of the route was excellent hard snow bisected by short patches of deep sugar. There is one pitch of WI3 followed by 400' of perfect 50-60 degree neve'. This puts you at what the book claims to be the crux. Lower Third of the route The crux pitch in the middle of the route is a ~100' of 70-90 degree semi-rotten ice. WI4 Xish. Bill place two screws within a foot of each other 40' feet from the belay, the only pro on the pitch. He banged in an iffy pin and a worthless picket 180' from the belay for the anchor. This turned out to be the typical anchor on the route. Following the crux is a long section of deep 40-50 degree sugar. We had enough of the deep sugar crap so ~800 from the top we decided to leave the normal Spindrift route and try a line to the right. After a couple of sketchy leads, one WI5X we knew that daylight was soon to pass. Lucky we found a sheltered bivvy, a small cave created by an over hanging rock with a bush draping over it. The night was 12 hours of sleepless shivering. The cave was cramped, but there was enough room for one person to stand erect, the other hunched and the bottom was big enough for both of us to lay down with our legs sharing the middle. Laying down only made us colder, so we spent most of the night standing, stamping our feet and exercising our ankles to ward off frozen digits. Bill had a pound of horsecock, a block of sharp cheddar and 5 smokes. They made the night bearable. The night in the cave was our second night of no sleep. The Cave The next morning we rapped back down to the Spindrift couloir and finished the proper route. The upper 1/4 of the route offered 400' of 50-60 degree perfect stick neve' which gave way to 400' of shit sugar. The final pitch to get over the corniced ridge was a sphincter clenching xperience. We brought a shovel head to dig our way through it, but we picked out a weakness that had the least amount of over-hanging snow. Eric's pic of the top pitch A team (John and Eric) was on our tails near the top. They caught up to us half way down the NW ridge. They used our raps catching us; they set the raps lower down. The four of us finished the descent together. Thanks much for sharing the raps and the navigation help. The Big Fuss on Big Four I underestimated route. I left instructions with my grandparents that we would call them by noon on Sunday letting them know that we were off the mountain. They called the Snohomish County sheriff's office right at noon. The Sheriff called the Rangers. The Sheriff copper flew over us around 3pm as we were descending the NW ridge. At the time we were rapping in a treed area. The chopper came back 30 minutes later when we were in an open area. They lowered a radio to us. We let them know that all was OK and I asked them to call my family back with word. Waiting for us near the ice caves with a pit fire were the Search and Rescue team. We walked out the trail together. To top off our adventure just a 1/4 mile from the trailhead I slipped on the icy trail. I twisted my ankle. I could not put weight on it. The S&R team hauled my sorry ass to the car. Many thanks. Agian, many thanks to the Search and Rescue folks who waited for us and the Snohomish Sheriff for the chopper check in. The Final Chapter It was now 10pm Sunday, Bill and I had been awake for 64 continuous hours. While driving to Granite Falls I noticed that Bill was driving 20 mph. I said to him, 'hey what's up man?' He was zombied out behind the wheel. I convinced him that it would be safer for me to drive into Everett with a sprained right ankle than him sleeping. At the motel room I was the first to pull off the boots. I had 6 black toes. Bill's toes were black as well. Two days later my toes turned red. This is good. I'll save mine. Bill's are another story. His big toes are still black four days later. Gear Notes: Pickets, screws, and tools Approach Notes: The road is gated 1-1.5 miles from the trailhead.
  3. IPCC: 80% renewables is possible within 40 years

    The recent BPA announcement doesn't lend to increasing renewable energy much. BPA Decision
  4. OIT OHSU WILDERNESS FIRST AID Dates: May 6-8th and May 28-30th (memorial day) Cost: $250 including room and board LOCATION: Mazama Lodge in Government Camp, OR COURSE DESCRIPTION This is a 2.5 day introductory course in Wilderness Medicine. It applies to anyone with an interest in the outdoors or travel in which adequate medical care is not an option. Curriculum is based on the internationally accredited Wilderness Medical Society Field Practice Guidelines and is delivered by current Advanced Life Support providers with multiple years of field experience and wilderness medicine instruction. We cover all topics associated with altitude, cold, heat, trauma, medical and advanced wound care techniques. CPR is included and applied to a wilderness/remote environment. Come prepared to run scenarios and practice improvising medical equipment. Walk away with a certification and a knowledge base that will allow you to recognize, prevent and treat medical emergencies in challenging environments. REGISTRATION/POLICIES Tuition payment in full is required to reserve your spot in the course. Tuition is non-transferable. Tuition is payable by check or cash to the Oregon Institute of Technology. The tuition fee covers textbooks, syllabus, equipment and certification cards. A full refund will be given if we are forced to cancel the course for any reason. Please fill out registration at the following link and send to OIT. www.oit.edu/non-admit Please make checks out to OIT. LODGING/MEALS Tuition Price includes: Lunch and dinner on the first day, breakfast lunch and dinner day two and breakfast on day three. Lodging is also included in the price for the evening of day one and two. For Registration or any other questions please contact Adam Wagner at: Adam Wagner WEMT-P, OIT OHSU Wilderness and Global Medicine Faculty wildernessmedicine09@gmail.com
  5. screamers

    A quick search on the GoogleMachine produced this: Mtn Project Screamer Discussion1 Mtn Project Screamer Discussion2 Yates Screamer Data Screamer Physics by John Yates
  6. Oklahoma Ice

    Those crazy Oklahoma cowboys. Looks like climbing the side of a beer can. At the 35 sec point in the video the commentator says: 'instead of being like artificial rock climbing this is actually real ice climbing' please.... Linky to the video
  7. BC Ice?

    Any BC residents know if Duffey Lake, Marble Canyon, Bridge River, etc around Lillooet survived the recent warming trend?
  8. Photo Gallery Down

    Mods, The gallery seems to be acting up. Happened on Friday about 12 noon Error Screen Shot
  9. Todd, Nice work on Hamilton. I've been wondering when you would get back on those flows. The last time we roped up together was on Blackjack back in '99. That was a great season in the Gorge. Sport climbing? What you talkin about? You know that ice and sporto don't go together. I'll PM you my number. Give me a call. Pete
  10. Oregon Ice update

    Pete's Pile info plus responses to various questions and comments The area with the belay bench and mid anchors is dry. No ice forms there. The ice climbs are all south of there. Anchors Establishing an anchor on top for most of the ice lines is challenging. Trees on the bench above the wall are more than 200' back except for the far right side of the cliff(pic #1). There are no anchors above the climbs in the first 5 pics. There are chains above the climb in the middle of pic #6 (labeled left side). The bench above the cliff is littered with large boulders. Bring long slings to wrap them or you might get lucky with rock pro. Some of the walls at Pete's including the wall in pic #8 has spring/summer/fall climbing restrictions because of a rare plant that resides there. That's probably why there are few anchors on obvious ice lines. Parking The pullout for Pete's, located south of the Cooper Spur road on hwy 35 at the south end of 8' high netted rock catchment fence along the east side of the hwy, is blocked in winter by a snow bank from plowing the hwy. Park on the west side of the hwy about a half mile south of the normal pullout. ODOT has a large pullout plowed for the campground and access to trails. Approach From the normal pullout on the east side of the hwy hike up and left through a steep forest. The cliff above is about a half mile long and parallels the hwy, so it is difficult to miss the crag. In summer the approach is under 15 min. or Just follow the tracks we layed down on Friday. It is not suppose to snow/rain until Wednesday, so our tracks will be there for a few days. Now I must get back to the Badger game.
  11. Gorge Ice November 2010?

    Drove the Gorge mid afternoon Wednesday on my way back from E-burg with my head hanging out the window. Another tease. Almost all climbs visible from the road are THIN or have flowing water in the center. Ainsworth middle third pitch is blank, no ice. The upper and lower sections have a narrow thin streak of ice. The climb with most ice from top to bottom is Wayne's test piece Black Dagger (did I get the route name right?) The Washington side flows were not in either. Kudos to Dustin for scratching up Mist in the dark. Double kudos to Amy for waiting in the car.
  12. Linky Summary The city of Portland will charge residents for the removal of leaves from city streets. Fees will range from $15 to $65.
  13. Cow vs Bear Cage Match

    Let's do this Round 1 cow Spectator involvement Ouch! Bovine sleeper hold Where's the ref when needed The audience jeers the looser
  14. juan williams firing - fucked up or not?

    Williams on the O'Reilly Show [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAfGKVK8PyE&feature=aso
  15. I'm attending the memorial for Dallas on Saturday. Traveling from Portland. Willing to pick up others along the way. I would rather not travel alone. PM's please. Thanks, Pete
  16. For the Serious Bacon Aficionado

    Portland Baconfest
  17. While chatting with Beacon yeti JH heard word that said Ivan was fighting his way up Dancer. Noonish I strolled over to have a look and you were just above the roof. You looked detained at the time so I kept my hello's to myself. Around 5pm when beers were looking better than another pitch I walked by again before heading for the barn. Kyle had finally gotten off the belay and was extracting a pin in the same spot where I saw you 5 hours prior. Felt sorry for Kyle having to belay for 5 hours from a hanging stance. Ouch! You own that man a life time of beer.
  18. Pillars of Hercules

    There's a bitchin' route on the larger western pillar that starts at the base and tops out. We did it car to car, so bivvy gear is optional, but I believe that TO's guide recommends two days. Bring a big rack including, tri-cams, bongs, bashies, pins and needles. And video your climb so we can all watch it on cc. Awesome dude!
  19. best of cc.com photos of Really Big Housecats

    You never know who's watching
  20. Timberline Toilet Poll

    The T-line vendor/operator, RLK and Company, maintains the climber's registration room and the associated toilet. It would be interesting to know why the door to that toilet is usually locked. It might have something to due with it being an already grungy public space (the toilet) that attracts unscrupulous people who leave gross messes behind and hence, RLK would rather leave it locked than have to continually clean it up. Just my guess. The toilets within the day lodge are open to the public during the day when the day lodge is unlocked. Unfortunately the building is locked at night. Follow Maine-iac's advice and use the main lodge's toilet at night. The east end of the day lodge including the climber's registration room may undergo a remodel in the near future. Lets hope that the toilet is included in the plans and if so that access to it improves. What the south side of Hood really needs is a shit bucket between Crater Rock and the top of the Palmer chair lift. 10s of thousands of skiers, hikers and climbers pass through there each year. Every loose rock on the ridge just above the chairs has a turd hiding under it.
  21. Chris, thanks for the post. The most exciting part of the climb was belaying your lead on pitch 4. Excellent job on incredibly delicate rock. Our old man two day siege approach to the route allowed for an evening of copious beer drinking and story telling at an excellent camp spot. In summary I believe the free grades go at: P1: Boldering move to 5.easy P2: 10b P3: 10b P4: 11- P5: 10d The Porn East Face The NE route takes advantage of numerous comfy ledges, dark blobs in the pic. Pitch 3 Pitch 4 Start Ledge Top of Pitch 4 Jugging Pitch 5
  22. KATU Story Oregon Board of Pharmacy News Release
  23. Hood - Fatality

    KGW update Hood Fatality