Who climbed what this past weekend?

[texplorer]

Smith was a zoo this weekend. I even heard one lady tell a friend of mine to keep his dogs away cause she didn't like it when dogs snif at her butt while belaying. If she wiped her snobby ass more often maybe she wouldn't have that problem. At one point there was probably 30 people in the dihedrals alone. Saturday I hit some of Smith's classic nubbin and pocket climbs with Strickland. Seeing Will amongst the preppy little sport dogs was like a hockey player at the ice capades but he did remarkably well delicately balancing on the sharp tuft. Upon waking to find he had been a puking all night quelched my thoughts of heading to the lower gorge and her lovely basalt cracks. I did manage to get in one nice trad route on Sunday in the first 3 pitches of lion's chair. Overall a mediocre weekend at Smith.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Terminal Gravity:

I did some little nerve damage thing in my neck last week (stupid human tricks) and my arm is 1/2 numb. I felt my knees needed a break from the last two weekends. So, I thought I would take it easy and I went out to do this local 5.8ish 2 pitch climb with this 65 year old Tai Kwan Do instructor friend of mine who has just climbed in gyms a bit. I have never ever seen any newbie so smooth and clear headed on rock 200ft above the deck. He had a bit of technical difficulty on some of the moves, but totally kept it together in his head. We rappeled the route (I belayed his first 50 ft.) and when I said to just lean back, arch his back and keep pressure on his feet, he did. I was amazed and had a good time.

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Too bad you didnt run into any Banditos he could have kicked them into submission too. I saw Iron Monkey on Friday night. "Shadow Kick! Hiyah! Ya! Ya!"

 

[miker]

Hey texplorer,

was the lady who complained about your dogs belaying someone up Wedding Day in the Dihedrals? If so that was my partner and there were a shitload of dogs being a nuisance around the climbs. I love dogs as much as the next guy, but keep them off my ropes, and make sure they are trained well enough so that they allow you to hear your climber yell take/slack/crap!! And I saw at least three dog fights out there as well. I mean nature is cool, but that is a bit too earthy.

I had an excellent time at Smith's, just go where the crowds aren't, i.e.-get away from the dihedrals and head to the backside or the marsupials or whatever.(of course it was my first time there ever, so I have nothing to compare it to)

miker

[Dru]

I will catch flak from this from the dog owners but my opinion is, if your dog isn't going to climb, it shouldn't be at a climbing area. Seen too many dogs either distract belayers, or climbers, or get in fights with other dogs, or wildlife like skunks or rattlesnakes, or get hit by rockfall, to believe the average mutt belongs at the base of the crag.

However -If Pancho the WonderDog onsights 5.11 in his HangDog harness and Woof Woof Roof slippers then by all means take him climbing! If you have seeing eye dogs why not ropegun dogs for the muscularily challenged...

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-23-2001).]

[Terminal_Gravity]

I totally agree with you, Dru. Part of the problem is that many dogs are out of thier comfort area and start to act territorial.

I've been attacked three times while hiking in the wilderness by confused and territorrial dogs. I had to pull my ice axe once and threaten to kill it if the owners could not keep it under control. I saw a dog chase a little girl (hiking with her parents) into a creek. She slipped and bonked her head, ending the trip for the family. All the stupid owner could say was that the dog wouldn't hurt anyone.

[willstrickland]

quote:

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Originally posted by mikereddig:

Hey texplorer,

was the lady who complained about your dogs belaying someone up Wedding Day in the Dihedrals? miker

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Mike:

Did your pardner have what looked like a big blood stain on the shoulder of her t-shirt? About mid 40's? She'd be the one he was talking about. I think she wanted to get on the .12 just left of wedding day after following it?

[slothrop]

went ice climbing for the first time with the UW climbing club at the Coleman Icefall. we set up a few top ropes, and after i hacked my way up those, some of us headed up the glacier to some good bouldering walls for some fun bulging, overhanging stuff. had an awesome time... now i want to pick up some cheep ice tools and head out again. rambo II's for ~$212 a pair on barrabes (with shipping!)...

[Cpt.Caveman]

Damn them butt sniffin' dirt hounds I like dogs a lot. Some are obviously more easy to control than others. Those ones are ok at the crags for me.

I even like Sisu Suomi's pit bull. Even though it chewed through a tree it was anchored to while we climbed up some choss this spring. It also has a bowling ball with a rope attached for a toy out in his back yard. I tell you that thing has energy! It constantly jumps up and slaps you in the face with it's tongue. Hahahha. For some people that is too much and I understand. The only bad thing about this dog is that it thinks everyone loves it so it's always beggin for attention. Most people being scared of pits well you can guess the rest...

[texplorer]

I agree with many of your points on dogs at crags. I am not saying my friends dogs are the best in the world. In fact they chewed through 3 of my double length spectra slings a few months back but what got me was the lady's condescending tone. She could have asked in a nice way and gotten the same results (plus I wouldn't have to think about dog snot seeping through spandex). I guess things were just a little tenser than normal with all the crowds there and all.

[This message has been edited by texplorer (edited 10-23-2001).]

[nolanr]

I was at Smith Easter weekend one year and the place was overrun w/ Canucks. Nothing but "eh" this and "eh" that. Beautiful conditions, temps. around 35-40, occassional snow flurries. A bunch of them had these little portable (propane?) space heater thingys, didn't look like it would have done much good, maybe it's a Canadian thing. Dru?

Anyway, this weekend went up to Gothic Basin. Wanted to play around on Sheep Gap Peak, but apparently the best way to get there is not going all the way up into Gothic Basin--kinda ugly looking down climb in steep gullies or steep heather slopes w/ light layer of snow. As a consolation prize I headed up to Gothic Peak. The middle of the 3 summit towers looked the coolest, so I headed for it. Dinked around a while, but combo of wet rock, a little bit of ice, and thin layer of snow readily sloughing off of slabby stuff convinced me to call it a day. It was cool just being up there, anyway. Glacier Basin peaks looked awesome w/ a fresh coat of white stuff.

[JayB]

Hello All:

I guess I'll use this post to introduce myself to the group. I grew up in Washington but moved to Colorado shortly after finishing up at UW in 1998. Although I love it here, I'll be moving back to Seattle in February and will be glad to climb with anyone from this forum when I get there

On Sunday I spent a beautiful day pulling on the south facing limestone of the Cactus Cliff at Shelf Road this weekend. Beautiful. Not only is the rock superb and the scene cool (lots of good will and encouragement and very little attitude) but the scenery is amazing too. Red-rock, pinyon and juniper in the foreground, the Sangre De Christos rising like a line of canines in the background, and a Valley worthy of the Jolly Green Giant in between. I thought I'd mention this cliff in particular because after being developed in the 1980's it was closed to climbing by the landowner's decree until 1999, when the Access Fund successfully negotiated the purchase of the cliffs and a sliver of adjacent land from a developer who had aquired the property shortly before. Who to thank? Well, everyone who contributed to the AF of course, but especially Jon Krakauer, of whom the author of the guidebook says "His strong support was THE crucial link in making the acquisition of these crags happen." I heard somewhere that the AF aquired the property for about $140,000, most of which came from Jon's pocket. Sorry to bring up the topic in an unrelated thread but it seemed like the right thing to do after the thrashing he's received on this site recently.

I also hit Eldo the day before, and climbed the "Green Spur," "Green Slab Direct," and "Darkness 'Till Dawn," which incidently, turned out to be a less than prudent choice for someone(me)looking for a "mellow" 5.10 trad climb to break into the grade with. The thing treated me to my first bona fide whipper on gear and ultimately left me whimpering in a corner after throwing everything from off-tips laybacks to frantic chicken-wing inducing off-widths at me.

Anyway - good to be here and I'll be happy to pass along any info I can on climbing in CO if anyone's interested.

-Jay

[crazy_t]

Darkness 'Til Dawn is truly a "full value" 5.9+, super sustained. Green Spur and Green Slabs are nice too, esp green spur. Have you done Yellow Spur yet? or Outer Space? I used to live in Eldo, what a place!

[texplorer]

Isn't Eldo where Kurt Smith sharpened his drill bit for future bolting adventures south of the border?

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by texplorer:

Isn't Eldo where Kurt Smith sharpened his drill bit for future bolting adventures south of the border?

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nope, thats the valley and rifle canyon.

[miker]

Will,

She did indeed have a lot of blood soaking into her shoulder, wish I had known who was you I woulda said hi. She was trying to make up a good story about the blood soaked shoulder, but basically she just opened up a non-climbing related wound when she replaced the bandage that morning and then the climbing just exacerbated the issue.

Miker

[JERRY_SANCHEZ]

I WENT UP MT. SI THIS PAST WEEKEND

[Lambone]

quote:

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Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ:

I WENT UP MT. SI THIS PAST WEEKEND

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With your plastic boots right???

 

[goatboy]

Didn't climb a thing.

Drove up the Cle Elum River road and saw snowy peaks, Cathedral Rock and Mt Daniel, very lovely.

Also noted that the south side of stuart (and nearby peaks) were covered in new snow.

Lovely day, Saturday.

As for dogs at the crags, it's inevitable. But owners should understand that just because THEY know fido is friendly, doesn't mean that everyone else has the same comfort zone. Keeping dogs on leashes or at least under control is not an unreasonable thing to ask for.

Having said that, it's sometimes nice to see some of the Outward Hounds!

[Figger_Eight]

Dogs at climbing areas are a priviledge, not a right. I'm sick of wooey wooey dog owners who get pissed if you kick their mangy mutt away while you're trying to belay.

[rr666]

 

I also agree that having a dog at a crag is a priviledge. I think people just need to be responsible and realize that they are not the sh&t and own the place and realize that there are going to be other people and dogs at the crags. I have two dogs and try to take them to the crag with me when I am going sport climbing. I do keep them on their leashes but I understand how annoying they can be. If the crag is going to be crowded, like lets say Smith, I leave them home. No matter how friendly your dog can be, if there is a mangy mutt, mangy climber, or just too many people around, the dog will go bonkers. Something or someone will antagonize them eventually and cause a problem.

Feel free to take your dog to the crags, just be responsible and remember that it is a priviledge, and many people around probably would prefer if your dog was not there.

[sexual_chocolate]

Cats rule, dogs drool.

 

'nuf said. Leave your dogs at home; bring your cats instead.

If I was a cat, I'd be cool.

If I was a cat; "look, no drool!"

But I'm just a dog, as dumb as a log;

Boy, I wish I could get into cat-school!

[Bronco]

Great story about dogs and Ice climbing.

http://www.rockandice.com/index.phtml?section=stories_show&content_id=40

I have a dog which stays home if we are going to the crags or any other activity she can't do herself.

[Lambone]

I'm with chocolate, I've got three cats!

I once stepped on a poor dog while belaying on an ice climb. It wasn't my fault, I was watching my partner and she curled up behind me. My crampon punctured her leg

Then she preceded to try and follow her owner up a route(unsuccesfully of course) and got totaly pegged by diner plates.

Dogs and Ice climbing don't mix.

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-24-2001).]

[JayB]

Hey Crazy T:

That was actually my first day at Eldo, despite having moved here three years ago. I'd always heard that the place was such a zoo that I stuck closer to home (Colorado Springs) and hit the South Platte. I figured I had a good feel for what a hard 5.9 trad lead could throw at you after frequenting Turkey Rocks, but spanked me nonetheless. I wish I had visited Eldo sooner, as there's enough climbing to keep everyone happy despite the crowds. Doing what was essentially face climbing with gear for pro on a number of the pitches was pretty cool as well. I'd like to get on the Yellow Spur before I move back to WA, but my time is short and the tick list is long so I may not get to it before I leave as I'll probably be focusing on getting the most out of the ice here in CO before I return. Is Banks Lake still in in February/early March?

[offwidthclimber]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bronco:

Great story about dogs and Ice climbing.

http://www.rockandice.com/index.phtml?section=stories_show&content_id=40

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dude, i read that a while back. that's one burly story! damn.