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ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

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okay - second issue for this season of Haireball's Ass-Clammin inventory - Icicle & Tumwater canyons, and Stuart Range.   As of December 2, there is no lowland ass no place.  the Funnel  on hubba hubba hill is a wet streak.  a hike in to Millenium wall reveals damp rock with a dusting of melting snow.  in Tumwater canyon, there are random blobs in the general vicinity of Drury falls, but no other sign of ass.

a hike in to Colchuck reveals thin smears of snow plastered on edges/ledges on the alpine faces - nothing that would constitute a "line", although the triple couloir is beginning to fill.  there is a fat two-or-three pitch flow a couple hundred feet up the approach gully to Colchuck Balanced Rock - looks like fun climbing if you feel like making the nine-mile approach from the Icicle road.  One trip report on this site reveals decent mixed conditions in the ne couloir on Argonaut - suggesting that Sherpa & Stuart might be worth a look...

forecast is for temperature to drop into the 'teens in Leavenworth mid-week, then warm again into next weekend.  I'm hoping to make another trip in to Colchuck next weekend, and will take my tools this time.   think frigid thoughts...

no word yet from my colleagues in the coulees...



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Lots of very fun ice to be had above heliotrope! We found mostly cold dry ice. Conditions were generally not conducive to leading (short pitches with snow below or thin ice or not hard enough to justify it, ymmv). There is ice to be had!

Up and left of where the trail goes right to heliotrope (trigged a wind slab below this)


Same area as above


FAT flow to the west of the trail on the way up, kind of wet, very easy, about 80-100ft


same as above  (this ice is grin worthy)


Up and to the right of the last climb (cliff band below heliotrope) (sorry for the quality)IMG_1376.thumb.jpg.3b5c110917b38f299c552c19fdeea6da.jpg


same as above

Hope this inspires some hope for the winter to come!!





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E2F4CE50-9D8F-4A35-8A18-D4969E47AD87.thumb.jpeg.2f704bb24fb1c53be55f078d6d5d7552.jpeg Eliot Goacier ice is IN. Cooper 30 is solid and some other ice around is in decent shape too. 

Edited by landoclimb
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Found 3 pitches of wi2/3 ice near milepost 72 off Steven's pass highway. Fun climbing, plenty fat for screws! 2nd pitch is wi3, 1st and 3rd are shorter and wi2. Anyone know what this route is called? See gps track for location.










Edited by ilias
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On ‎12‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 9:49 PM, Peter Way said:

Cooper 30 is in good shape.   4 of us climbed it today.


where is Cooper 30?

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